Mountaineering experience

Mar 24, 2008 18:58

"What you need is combat experience. That's what keeps you alive in real combat."
"OK, but how can you tell the difference between combat experience and real combat?"
"Simple. If you're alive at the end, it was combat experience."
(From The Ballad of Halo Jones)
Saturday's trip to the hills started inauspiciously: I slept through all my alarms, and ( Read more... )

healthcare, mountains, doomed, munros

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Comments 36

nou March 24 2008, 20:58:10 UTC
Goodness. No advice, but glad you're both OK.

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necaris March 24 2008, 21:52:00 UTC
Wouldn't have the slightest idea how to do any of what you described -- but really glad you're OK!!

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pozorvlak March 24 2008, 22:09:54 UTC
Thanks!

On the one hand, some of the people who read this blog have never climbed a hill in their lives; on the other, we have at least one Himalayan first ascensionist, so it's a bit tricky to know how much detail to put in :-) I've done a fair bit of hillwalking, some of it in the winter, but this kind of edging-into-mountaineering stuff is on the edge of my abilities, so I'm really hoping someone more experienced than me will come along and point out my errors.

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pozorvlak March 24 2008, 22:32:04 UTC
Thanks.

TBH, we were lucky, and it's good to have this kind of scare occasionally to remind you that safety precautions are necessary. I was talking to a doctor friend on Sunday, and she said that scalp wounds bleed a lot, and the fact that they glued it rather than stitching it suggests it wasn't very deep. But she could have broken a leg, or hit her head on a rock, or anything... *shudder*.

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I'm not outdoorsy, but I know from blood, injuries and damage. bronxelf_ag001 March 24 2008, 21:09:56 UTC
First of all, I am very glad that you and Jo are all right. The whole thing sounds terrifying.

In addition to your list, here's my suggestions-

Always make sure that every member of your party understands the full use of the equipment you use. Jo's accident could have been if not avoided, certainly been made less severe had she the knowledge of how to use the axe more effectively.

As you've said, be certain to do a check of your first aid kit before you head out, even if you haven't used it for anything for a while. You may discover there's something sensible you've forgotten to add. (usually it's ace bandages, which I know are called something else over there, but I dont know what, so here's a picture.)

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Re: I'm not outdoorsy, but I know from blood, injuries and damage. pozorvlak March 24 2008, 21:46:28 UTC
That's a very, very good point about making sure everyone knows how to use the equipment. I showed Jo some stuff when we reached the snowline, but I should have insisted on a lot more practice - self-arrest is the kind of thing that needs to be instinctive. And thanks for the first-aid advice - that's exactly the kind of thing I was hoping to hear. I don't know what we call those things either, but I'll have a look out for them :-)

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totherme March 24 2008, 21:34:59 UTC
Glad you're ok :)

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pozorvlak March 24 2008, 21:48:06 UTC
Thanks :-)

BTW: any chance you could get nastyicydeath to have a look at this? I'd appreciate as much commentary from mountaineers as possible. And first aiders, and doctors, and anyone, really, but especially mountaineers.

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totherme March 24 2008, 22:37:59 UTC
Already done :) I think he plans to leave a comment soon...

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johnckirk March 24 2008, 22:29:11 UTC
Yeesh; that all sounds very scary, so I'm glad you both made it back in one piece. I'd always imagined hill-walking as fairly sedate, rather than mountaineering ( ... )

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pozorvlak March 24 2008, 22:37:18 UTC
Usually, it is pretty sedate: like I said, I've had maybe five miserable days, and a couple of scary ones, in three years and nearly 80 mountains climbed. This was one of the bad days that help you to enjoy the good ones :-)

Thanks for the advice on head injuries. I wasn't consciously testing her memory, just trying to find out the extent of her injuries. TBH, I wouldn't have been surprised if she hadn't known what hit her: it was all pretty quick. Disposable gloves might have been an idea, but I don't think I had any with me - the thin gloves were just my ordinary going-around-town ones (as opposed to the thicker ski gloves I was wearing for much of the day).

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dynix March 25 2008, 00:38:48 UTC
heya,

sounds like fun :S Glad you both made it back in one piece ( ... )

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pozorvlak March 25 2008, 00:56:50 UTC
sounds like fun :S
It was, right up until the accident :-(

Sling them in your bag and use them if it becomes necessary but don't make decisions that *require* the use of equipment that only one of you has - certainly not whilst there's another option you can take.
That was the idea, but I guess I was too eager to go ahead - the alternative would have been turning back once we reached the snowline. But you're right. Even another axe could have made all the difference.

My first aid kit used to have some paracetamol in it, but I think it all got raided and not replaced. I've now got a load of codeine that I'm probably not going to use all of - would it make sense to put that in, or are the side-effects too much of a problem?

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Mountaineering nastyicydeath March 25 2008, 00:15:48 UTC
Sounds like a real epic ( ... )

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Re: Mountaineering pozorvlak March 25 2008, 00:39:41 UTC
Thanks a lot, that's really helpful ( ... )

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Re: Mountaineering sammoore March 25 2008, 10:16:17 UTC
Andy pointed me here, and it's a really interesting story. I'll try and read it more depth and comment later.

The first thing that leaps out thought is that while Andy says, keep your car keys in an inner rucksack pocket I keep mine in an inner jacket/trouser pocket. I've been separated from my rucksack before.

Most canoeist keep theirs in the buoyancy aids if there is any chance at all that you will be losing a boat.

Sam

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Re: Mountaineering sammoore March 26 2008, 22:59:08 UTC
Hello,

I've had a better chance to read the story in full now and I'll comment below.

First up, who am I? Well, I'm Andy's sometime climbing partner, ex flat&course mate and he pointed me here. I'm also an outdoor instructor based in North Wales with about 12 years of hillwalking and mountaineering experience. I've probably climbed less vertical feet than Andy but I am out several days each week in the mountains with beginners. I also work with several guys on the rescue team in Llanberis and so I hear a lot of first hand rescue stories.

What am I not? Well I hope I'm not a patronising know-it-all instructor. I am very impressed that you have asked for comments on the incident and that your reporting is so honest and open. I always say my advice is "freely given and gladly ignored". If you think I am an interfering busybody feel free to disregard my thoughts. As always, the below represents only my personal thoughts on your tale ( ... )

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