Red Damask Kirtle, the fabrics & decisions

[kimikosews]

Back to costume work. I finally got off my rear and got the red damask fabric into the wash, which sounds like it is ready for the dryer. I didn't test sample the fabric as I should have, so I hope it wasn't badly damaged. It's all cotton, it should be fine, and hopefully a bit tighter in the weave now. I'll test wash the wool a bit later.

Comments

[unclrashid]

I can't say for sure that those flowers wouldn't have been used on European garb, but that motif probably originates in Persian art. It's possible they stole if from China. It could have gotten to Europe via Turkey via Venice, but is most commonly seen in 15th and 16th century Persian manuscript decoration. Persian textiles were less symmetrical and much smaller in scale than Turkish so it could possibly have been used in Persian textiles. It may have also shown up as an embroidery motif via Islamic embroideries of medieval Spain.

I wouldn't say not to use it, as most people won't know the difference. But textile wienies may look at you slightly askance if you claim "high authenticity" for it.

[sstormwatch]

Not claiming high authenticity, thankfully. Will ask the costume head if it is alright or not. It is my only damask that isn't a silk or silk lookalike, and I don't want to use a silk this time.

Thanks for the thoughts on its Persian origin. I was wondering if one of the flowers was a tulip or something.

[unclrashid]

I think the original ones are actually highly decorative leaves, and have been conflated with flowers in this damask.

[myladyswardrobe]

Very nice damask. A Kentwellie had a similar fabric though hers was a chenille velvet in black (that would have been ok) with a cream linen embroidery all over it.

Problem is, it was scrolly like yours (though more wide spaced) and similar patterns. It wasn't correct for Kentwell so I've had to reluctantly fail it.

[sstormwatch]

I'll ask the costume head what she thinks. I don't have any other damask that isn't a silk or silk-lookalike/rayon. I thought about getting a damask linen, but those I've seen are printed, not woven. The chenille I have is simply too heavy for me to wear anymore, but very Italian pomegranate.

I bought the above with non-historical plans in mind, so at the worst it can go back to that use.

[kimikosews]

My costume head has approved it for her faire. She thought it was subdued enough and small enough to not notice the pattern much, and it was the right color of red. It will be mostly underneath a black gown.

I'm on a tight budget now since we just paid huge money to fix our car, so I'm thankful I didn't have to buy more fabric on this. I went eBay looking, found lots of linen damasks (including a gorgeous linen with velvet!! designs for wayyy too much money) and most of the damask patterns were too modern, mostly baroque or Victorian. Frustrating to find a period pattern, like when I went looking for the b&w pattern in suitable fabrics. No wonder I stick to plain fabrics when I can.