Red Damask Kirtle, the fabrics & decisions
Back to costume work. I finally got off my rear and got the red damask fabric into the wash, which sounds like it is ready for the dryer. I didn't test sample the fabric as I should have, so I hope it wasn't badly damaged. It's all cotton, it should be fine, and hopefully a bit tighter in the weave now. I'll test wash the wool a bit later.
I did take photos of the fabric before I washed it. They were shot outside with a late afternoon sun. The first photo shows a truer color shot, as it is a warmer dark red than not.
Both sides of fabric
Vine & flower motif, 100% cotton. From stash, bought c.2000. Color is closest in this photo.
Fabric detail shot
Showing closeup of what the flowers look like. Not sure flowers are period style (don't look familiar), but the scrolling vine pattern should work.
The fabric appears brighter in the sun than it does inside. It is definitely a warm red, brick colored, sorta. The threads have a slight shine to them (mercerized??) depending on the side viewed, so I'm going to have to decide if I want the motif to be slightly shiny, or the background. I'm leaning to the motif being shiny.
My little fabric inventory card notes I bought this around 2000 or early 2001 from the Clovis Hancocks, I think as a remnant. I have 1 piece that is 4 yards, and 1 piece that is 55.75" long; 57" wide. More than plenty for the kirtle. I may even have enough to make my daughter a pretty dress, although she prefers blue or purple in general. It was originally planned to be a larp costume, a doublet for Dame Serena Stormwatch, Troll, Knight of something or other. I may end up with enough anyway for a doublet later if Relle doesn't want this as a dress.
I also have made my decisions that had stalled me before. It will have a small farthingale underneath, but without a bumroll. There may be a small pad in the back to help with the farthingale position, but only if needed. Thanks margorose for your thoughts.
The bodice will be laced shut in the front, with an angled front similar to the Effigy bodies I've made. I want that extra room for my bust, and I want some light boning as well, most likely plastic zip ties. The skirt will be directly attached to the bodies as well. I may, maybe, put in a pinned placard over the front to cover the front when I'm wearing the fitted gown, but that I'll decide later. I have also decided to not make this smaller than my body, but will make it to exactly fit my body. My weight fluctuates too much not to end up with something too small by late summer.
The gown will be a little overlapping, I think. I can decide that after the kirtle is done and play with mockups.
The nice thing is that I've already got the basic kirtle patterns already drafted. I just need to tweak them for my current size and go from there. I hope to start on the mockup tonight after the kids are in bed - if I don't fall asleep first. Didn't sleep well, so I'm tired already. Or maybe tomorrow... we'll see.
Oh, and I need to order some new interlining fabrics. Wm. Booth Draper has some nice linens and hemps, including a new linen buckram!! (top of the linen page).
I did take photos of the fabric before I washed it. They were shot outside with a late afternoon sun. The first photo shows a truer color shot, as it is a warmer dark red than not.
Both sides of fabric
Vine & flower motif, 100% cotton. From stash, bought c.2000. Color is closest in this photo.
Fabric detail shot
Showing closeup of what the flowers look like. Not sure flowers are period style (don't look familiar), but the scrolling vine pattern should work.
The fabric appears brighter in the sun than it does inside. It is definitely a warm red, brick colored, sorta. The threads have a slight shine to them (mercerized??) depending on the side viewed, so I'm going to have to decide if I want the motif to be slightly shiny, or the background. I'm leaning to the motif being shiny.
My little fabric inventory card notes I bought this around 2000 or early 2001 from the Clovis Hancocks, I think as a remnant. I have 1 piece that is 4 yards, and 1 piece that is 55.75" long; 57" wide. More than plenty for the kirtle. I may even have enough to make my daughter a pretty dress, although she prefers blue or purple in general. It was originally planned to be a larp costume, a doublet for Dame Serena Stormwatch, Troll, Knight of something or other. I may end up with enough anyway for a doublet later if Relle doesn't want this as a dress.
I also have made my decisions that had stalled me before. It will have a small farthingale underneath, but without a bumroll. There may be a small pad in the back to help with the farthingale position, but only if needed. Thanks margorose for your thoughts.
The bodice will be laced shut in the front, with an angled front similar to the Effigy bodies I've made. I want that extra room for my bust, and I want some light boning as well, most likely plastic zip ties. The skirt will be directly attached to the bodies as well. I may, maybe, put in a pinned placard over the front to cover the front when I'm wearing the fitted gown, but that I'll decide later. I have also decided to not make this smaller than my body, but will make it to exactly fit my body. My weight fluctuates too much not to end up with something too small by late summer.
The gown will be a little overlapping, I think. I can decide that after the kirtle is done and play with mockups.
The nice thing is that I've already got the basic kirtle patterns already drafted. I just need to tweak them for my current size and go from there. I hope to start on the mockup tonight after the kids are in bed - if I don't fall asleep first. Didn't sleep well, so I'm tired already. Or maybe tomorrow... we'll see.
Oh, and I need to order some new interlining fabrics. Wm. Booth Draper has some nice linens and hemps, including a new linen buckram!! (top of the linen page).