French & English hoods, and goldworked collar

Feb 13, 2008 17:34

With great thanks to pinkdiamond, she posted a number of image links to flickr sites that had English and French hood gable images. I will be adding those to my site, or at least links (depending on copyright allowance ( Read more... )

henry viii, goldwork, costume, research, hats

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Comments 5

docryder February 14 2008, 02:49:21 UTC
Looking at that statue, it seems to me that the "high collared" portion looks less like a smock and more like a dickie (which is what i think you've mentioned is what a partlet is, although I forget). Of course, there may be details missing that would influence things. I primarily think this because there is no indication of a closure in the front. Of course, it could really be either a smock or dickie/partlet, with a closure in the back. You would know how common a closure in the back of a smock is more readily than I.

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sstormwatch February 14 2008, 04:30:03 UTC
Both a partlet and a smock would normally open in the front. Partlets usually look flat, not gathered, which is why I am thinking this is more likely a smock. It may have been the style of the artist that there is no obvious closure, or the closure in this case might be in the back or simply hidden among the folds or just being ignored.

And on second look, the goldworked collar, may also just be a carcanet, which is a jeweled necklace piece, not goldwork embroidery.

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bwliadain February 14 2008, 06:24:29 UTC
The whole look of the smock/collar puts me in mind of the German/Flemish portraits of about the same time. MAybe a more modest lady than we normally see in English portraits?

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sstormwatch February 14 2008, 07:01:37 UTC
If she's a more modest lady, then yeah for modesty! I am getting tired of my square necked smock coming down off my shoulders, or the need for lots of sunblock (I will make a linen partlet this summer). I am getting more modest in my middle years.

I just wish I could put a decent date period on her.

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bwliadain February 14 2008, 19:26:22 UTC
Not much info with the picture, is there? Like who she is, exactly WHERE she is...
Been poking through my b/w portraits a bit. Saw similar shifts? partlets? with fancy collars on Dutch, German, Flemish ladies,MAYBE a couple older English ladies with high-necked blackworked collars.
The hood reminds me a little of the Anne of Cleve portrait...

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