1810 Gown from page 158 of The Cut of Woman's Clothes by Norah Waugh.
I probably started this project about two years ago. Tons of school, and three mock-ups later I finally had a finished pair of corded stays last spring. Over the summer I made the rest of the underpinnings and the dress, finishing up around September. This was my first steps into the world of Regency, and I really like it so far :)
You can read the entire saga post by post in my LJ: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/?skip=10&tag=regency
Or, garment by garment under the
Chemise:
Adapted (Mostly at the sleeves) from my 18th century chemise pattern. I originally cut and sewed a mock-up of the Simplicity chemise pattern, but I did not like how it fit. Eventually I shortened the Shoulder straps, gathering the excess of the sleeve cap.
Corset:
Made using the pattern from Period Costumes for Stage and Screen bye Jean Hunnisett. Satin coutil outer, linen inter-lining and cotton lining. Boned with 1/8" Nylon cording, and plastic 1/4" Zip ties. Wooden front busk. Cream silk dupioni bias binding. Hand worked (Cotton thread) eyelets. To see how I did the cording:http://izodiea.livejournal.com/15138.html
I was really inspired by this corset:http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=74890&coll_keywords=&coll_accession=&coll_name=&coll_artist=&coll_place=&coll_medium=&coll_culture=&coll_classification=Costumes&coll_credit=&coll_provenance=&coll_location=&coll_has_images=1&co
Me wearing the stays pre-binding:
Outside in good lighting:
Busk:
This is still in progress, but armed with a design made by my friend akikotree, I am going to decorate my busk.
I am going to use the the Roses and Thorns (On the left) it felt the most traditional of the three, while still having a modern flair.
Petticoat:
I used the skirt pattern of my gown, but folded it on it's self to make it less full (and fit on my 45" cotton voile) The hem to about mid skirt is flat lined with cotton organdy for stiffness and a little more opacity. Having two layers made the tucks a little more tricky to sew, but still fairly easy with basting. The petticoat closes with hooks up the back. I decided not to make a bodiced petticoat this time, If I need it later I can always add it, and I think I would rather make a colored one!
Dress:
I started by girding the pattern in the book to get an idea of grain. Instead of drafting up- I decided to drape the gown over my stays and mannequin. At that point I got fairly confused about the neckline grain, and posted in: http://community.livejournal.com/dressdiaries_so/20330.html
(I used all of the pieces I draped except for the skirt- that came of a modified version of the Simplicity "EverAfter" gown)
Next I made about two(?) mock-ups (getting a lot of help fitting from one of my teachers)
I was not really liking the proportions I was getting, so after a bit of research on period options, I decided to add a waistband. Because the skirt is gathered in it really made no difference fit-wise. Once all the fitting was done (YAY!) I began to cut out and assemble the dress. The main fabric of the gown is a swiss dot 100% cotton Voile I got while visiting family in NYC. The front of the bodice is flatlined in batiste, and the back in cotton organdy. The shoulders have ribbon stays to keep the gathers in place.
Basted together for the "final fitting"
All of the ruffles are hand roll-hemmed. I started doing the ruffles even before the fitting was done, and finished right on time. I commute to school everyday, and all that handwork made it much more pleasant.
Bonnet:
I followed this tutorial Here: http://regencysa.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=sundries&action=display&thread=431 And it worked really well with a few style adjustments! (Make sure you scroll all the way down to get the full tutorial, she does two different hats) I started by going to a Michael's and buying a $2 straw hat as the tutorial Suggested. I dismantled the hat until I liked the shape and brim width.
Then I added some bias to the edge (Same as the stays) and some antique horsehair trim (From lacis). Before I sewed it all in place, I pleated in some silk/cotton voile to the underside. After being undecided about trim (For quite a while!) I added the back, trim and bias strip.
Events where I have worn it all:
The first event I wore it too was a Mad Hatter Tea Party hosted by the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild.
See more here: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/22050.html
Followed by the Bay Are Regency Society's Congress of Vienna Ball.
A Friends Pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dragoniching/sets/72157625187253576/
And then a Regency Fashion show and lecture at the Sacramento Library.
More Info: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/26780.html
And finally/most recently at the PEERS Le Bal Des Vampire.
For more pictures go here: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/28595.html
Future Plans:
I would like to make a pair os short stays (Most likely just shorten my pattern). I would also like to make some sort of open robe/levite. Basically an over garment that doesn't cover my pretty sleeves like a spencer would.
Thank you for reading ( A LOT!) I hope you enjoyed :)
You can read the entire saga post by post in my LJ: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/?skip=10&tag=regency
Or, garment by garment under the
Chemise:
Adapted (Mostly at the sleeves) from my 18th century chemise pattern. I originally cut and sewed a mock-up of the Simplicity chemise pattern, but I did not like how it fit. Eventually I shortened the Shoulder straps, gathering the excess of the sleeve cap.
Corset:
Made using the pattern from Period Costumes for Stage and Screen bye Jean Hunnisett. Satin coutil outer, linen inter-lining and cotton lining. Boned with 1/8" Nylon cording, and plastic 1/4" Zip ties. Wooden front busk. Cream silk dupioni bias binding. Hand worked (Cotton thread) eyelets. To see how I did the cording:http://izodiea.livejournal.com/15138.html
I was really inspired by this corset:http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=74890&coll_keywords=&coll_accession=&coll_name=&coll_artist=&coll_place=&coll_medium=&coll_culture=&coll_classification=Costumes&coll_credit=&coll_provenance=&coll_location=&coll_has_images=1&co
Me wearing the stays pre-binding:
Outside in good lighting:
Busk:
This is still in progress, but armed with a design made by my friend akikotree, I am going to decorate my busk.
I am going to use the the Roses and Thorns (On the left) it felt the most traditional of the three, while still having a modern flair.
Petticoat:
I used the skirt pattern of my gown, but folded it on it's self to make it less full (and fit on my 45" cotton voile) The hem to about mid skirt is flat lined with cotton organdy for stiffness and a little more opacity. Having two layers made the tucks a little more tricky to sew, but still fairly easy with basting. The petticoat closes with hooks up the back. I decided not to make a bodiced petticoat this time, If I need it later I can always add it, and I think I would rather make a colored one!
Dress:
I started by girding the pattern in the book to get an idea of grain. Instead of drafting up- I decided to drape the gown over my stays and mannequin. At that point I got fairly confused about the neckline grain, and posted in: http://community.livejournal.com/dressdiaries_so/20330.html
(I used all of the pieces I draped except for the skirt- that came of a modified version of the Simplicity "EverAfter" gown)
Next I made about two(?) mock-ups (getting a lot of help fitting from one of my teachers)
I was not really liking the proportions I was getting, so after a bit of research on period options, I decided to add a waistband. Because the skirt is gathered in it really made no difference fit-wise. Once all the fitting was done (YAY!) I began to cut out and assemble the dress. The main fabric of the gown is a swiss dot 100% cotton Voile I got while visiting family in NYC. The front of the bodice is flatlined in batiste, and the back in cotton organdy. The shoulders have ribbon stays to keep the gathers in place.
Basted together for the "final fitting"
All of the ruffles are hand roll-hemmed. I started doing the ruffles even before the fitting was done, and finished right on time. I commute to school everyday, and all that handwork made it much more pleasant.
Bonnet:
I followed this tutorial Here: http://regencysa.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=sundries&action=display&thread=431 And it worked really well with a few style adjustments! (Make sure you scroll all the way down to get the full tutorial, she does two different hats) I started by going to a Michael's and buying a $2 straw hat as the tutorial Suggested. I dismantled the hat until I liked the shape and brim width.
Then I added some bias to the edge (Same as the stays) and some antique horsehair trim (From lacis). Before I sewed it all in place, I pleated in some silk/cotton voile to the underside. After being undecided about trim (For quite a while!) I added the back, trim and bias strip.
Events where I have worn it all:
The first event I wore it too was a Mad Hatter Tea Party hosted by the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild.
See more here: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/22050.html
Followed by the Bay Are Regency Society's Congress of Vienna Ball.
A Friends Pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dragoniching/sets/72157625187253576/
And then a Regency Fashion show and lecture at the Sacramento Library.
More Info: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/26780.html
And finally/most recently at the PEERS Le Bal Des Vampire.
For more pictures go here: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/28595.html
Future Plans:
I would like to make a pair os short stays (Most likely just shorten my pattern). I would also like to make some sort of open robe/levite. Basically an over garment that doesn't cover my pretty sleeves like a spencer would.
Thank you for reading ( A LOT!) I hope you enjoyed :)