Okay, I solved my last problem. (The problem in the first place, you may ask? I overreacted and actually did everything right, but got discouraged too quickly. Ah, well.) Now I have some simple questions to run by you all
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Tight bindoffs are my perennial problem : ) I find it easier when I do Elizabeth Zimmerman's sewn castoff, but it's always something I have to be extra careful to do loosely. You want your caston and bindoff to be as loose, if not looser, than the rest of the piece, especially with a garment, or you'll end up with edges that are uncomfortable or strange-looking in their unstretchiness.
If this helps, there is a standard for yarn types, as follows:
The standard lists the number you'll see in the little icon of the yarn ball on the wrapper, yarn type, what it's usually called, stitches in a 4" wide swatch, and the needle sizes usually used.
Comments 4
Though for some things, this is desirable. You can get nice, drapey shawls and things that way.
For worsted weight, I tend to use a size 7 or 8 needle, fwiw.
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If this helps, there is a standard for yarn types, as follows:
The standard lists the number you'll see in the little icon of the yarn ball on the wrapper, yarn type, what it's usually called, stitches in a 4" wide swatch, and the needle sizes usually used.
1: superfine (sock, fingering, baby) - 27-32 sts/4", needle sizes 1-3
2: fine (sport, baby) - 23-26 sts/4", needle sizes 3-5
3: light (dk, light worsted) - 21-24 sts/4", needle sizes 5-7
4: medium (worsted, aran) - 16-20 sts/4", needle sizes 7-9
5: bulky (chunky, craft, rug) - 12-15 sts/4", needle sizes 9-11
6: super bulky (bulky, roving) - 6-11 sts/4", needle sizes 11+
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