Hiccups, bumps in the road, rough sailing. Call it what you will. Our first day at the hospital has been enlightening - One ventilator. One available ICU nurse. No local intensivist. No blood gas machine. No step down ICU. Only one functioning suction system. Three bed spaces total ( Read more... )

With an injured climbing partner, this years winter goal of putting up a new route on this Patagonian beauty were put on hold until next winter. Never been climbed, no name...next year, next year...

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Now where did I leave off...yikes! A full year ago was the last time I wrote here. I've traveled all over the world, accomplished some big long term goals and just generally managed to keep living the "per diem dream" as I aptly called it last year...

( 2011 and then some! )

We deposited my luggage at the hotel, Janelle filled me in about the riot/protests that had just happened and we grabbed some dinner with her husband and his work collegues. We end the night by indulging in the classic Spanish treat, churros con chocolate…

( Madrid! )

I had been talking about wanting to go to Spain since last summer. Having studied Spanish since I was 11 and having done a study abroad in South America and also having taken various other trips to Spanish speaking nations, I am particularly keen to work on my fluency. A winter climbing trip to the sunny southern end of Spain was the perfect trip; ( Read more... )

Smile 1 ( Read more... )

Two days ago, I woke up at 0130 in the morning and got ready to attempt the longest push of my climbing life:

The Nose of El Capitan, 31 pitches, 5.10 C1+. The goal? Do it in a day (under 24 hours), lead all the pitches and go go go!


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Chantel and I went up the Fear for my second time the other day! This time I lead the first 9 and finished my block in just under 5 hours! Super Psyched!!

We topped out at 13 hours, 33 minutes!! Huge improvement from last time!!

...and we bootied to super sick cams!!

Double score!

That taked the EC climb count to 4!!

WE MADE IT TO DOLT IN 3 hours, 20 minutes!!

So psyched! That is on par for a top out in 14 hours!

Still need to take off an hour in the block to meet our time goal but it should come! Think the first NIAD attempt will be next week sometime if Althea is healthy enough...

EEP!!!

El Capitan's Lurking Fear (C2F 5.7), 19 pitches went down in a slightly sluggish 20 hours!

But still so psyched to have climbed El Cap in a day!!!!!


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