Question about neck reining and trips away from "home"...

[lurath]

My mare, Deli, is at the end of a rehabilitation track for a popped/fractured splint bone after being kicked by a pasture mate and to stay off boredom (for both of us) I have been teaching her to neck rein. I know HOW to neck rein, but I have never trained a horse to do so

Comments

[coneycat]

About the neck reining--my first serious Western coach used to start off by bridging the split reins (so the end of the left rein crossed over the horse's neck and hung down the right side, and vice versa.) (I see by your photos that you won't be using split reins

[lurath]

THANK YOU! This is a very helpful comment. I do have some snap-on split reins I can use, which might be better length-wise since they are much longer than my typical English braided reins.

I have not considered riding Deli in a shank bit and am somewhat wary of trying one since she is very light and sensitive in the mouth. Of course, ideally she wouldn't ever be touched in the mouth if we are neck reining! Still, in the past year she has been much more accepting of the bit, so maybe it will be something to try for experimentation sake. Any recommendations on the first type of shank-bit to try? I know the most about plain curb bits in combination with a bradoon for double bridles used in dressage.

[coneycat]

I wasn't really advising you to try a shank, just remarking that the process will take more time/reinforcement in the snaffle. (I totally get not wanting to add that other component like a shank bit. I wouldn't either.)

It just occurred to me that you might be able to find a rein that's weighted up at the end that attaches to the bit. I'm sure I've seen those--the leather is a lot thicker at that end, which gives it more heft, which makes the cues come through stronger. I bet something like that would work, and then you wouldn't need to use a different bit.

Actually, I know we don't usually advertise products for Big Name Trainers here, but those reins John Lyons uses might be just the ticket: the buckle attachment and the way the nylon is looped through the attachment would probably be enough weight to do the trick with a snaffle. Something like that would probably work find with the bit you've got, and they look like they'd be easy to swap out with your normal reins.

[coneycat]

Actually--the leather part on the Lyons reins seems to be called a "slobber strap," and the idea is to add weight to a regular rein. That should make it easier for your mare to feel the cues with your snaffle.

Maybe look into getting a set of slobber straps and attaching a regular western rein to them. I don't know if the snap-on ones you have would work, though. You might be able to get a decent set of heavy reins used in your area.

[89rodeogirl]

The way I saw neck reigning taught (nope, didn't do it myself so I could be way off) was to gently press your hand against your horses neck and if they don't move away from the pressure then to direct rein until they get the neck pressure down. One they get it with your hands they will pick it up pretty fast from the reins. In regards to taking her places, I would go to the big shows. I think if you were to take her small places and get her used to that then take her to an even bigger show or stable she might take it as "OMG I DIDN'T REALIZE IT GOT EVEN WORSE!!!" and still be scared. But if you get her used to the big shows then everything else will seem small!

[arglikeapirate]

I really, really disagree with this. Take baby steps. We're doing this with my gelding now, and it's working very well! He was so disobedient at his first show, which was one of the recognized shows with qualifying classes so very loud and busy, he was so bad that his owner couldn't even get to the warmup, much less get on. Last October, I took him to a small schooling show after doing work in other arenas, etc and we got high point in the intro dressage classes. That said, we've also done a lot of work at home on building trust and respect, in terms of inhand work, etc.

[lurath]

Congratz on getting the high point! I have done a tons on in hand and trust building with my girl over the 4 years I've had her - she's definitely at a stage where her fear needs to be challenged a little with me being her point of reference and stability.

If I can do it, work in other areas will probably help her a lot. Then there might be other boarder she doesn't know too, but in a more relaxed environment.

[lurath]

I'll try the hand-thing! Thanks for the advice.

I think she will have moments of fear and panic given any new people-filled situation, I'd just prefer a degree that is controllable and normal, rather than all-out panic (which she is capable of). She tends to get comfortable with things like that at small degrees at a time, which is why I thought smaller shows and rides would be helpful for her brain. And then there would be less of a likelihood of her having a bad experience which would make future attempts even more difficult. Of course, what is a "big" versus a "small" show is open to discussion. I don't think we will ever go to participate in a really huge show, because then I would be anxious too with all the people around!

[sm923]

I'd recommend taking your horse to smaller shows to begin with for the only reason that there will be less people around if something were to go wrong. At bigger shows, if she freaks and gets away from you or runs off while riding, etc, there will be far less things to go wrong with fewer people there.

And you certainly can go in the ring with a horse without showing. This is common for young horses or for riders who aren't up to showing just yet but want to experience what'd it be like.

[lurath]

Thanks for the advice - I definitely think smaller shows and experiences will work better for her brain, since it's new people that make her the most anxious.

If it's common - do you let the people running the show know what your plans are? Would it be typical to still pay a facility fee even if you are not showing? Someone recommended to me once that I'd need to tie a green ribbon in her tail if I was going to do this. We never did this for the shows I was part of because they were all school horses, but do you think it's necessary?

[sm923]

I typically don't let them know ahead of time. However, if this is the only horse you're taking (ie. you're the only from your barn going) I would pay the grounds fee. But if a bunch of you are going, I wouldn't worry about it.

As far as the ribbon-some people do that (green means green horse and red usually means kicker or bitter or a dangerous horse). Its up to you, however, people will probably be able to tell if your horse is a little nervous. But it may a god thing to warn younger riders, etc. I've personally never done it.

[colebaltblue]

You can try a calming supplement for Deli, but part of it is just her breed too. My friend has a 23 year-old TB that has been showing (a TON of shows) since he was 4 and is still a psycho away from home. They can manage it to a certain degree, but don't expect a little angel at all times (I know you don't).

I've never trained any horse to neck rein, but I once asked someone about doing so and they suggested crossing the reins under the chin before bringing them up to your hands. That way, when you move to the left and press the right side of the neck with the rein you actually apply direct rein bit contact to the left side of the bit. This might work better if you have split reins and can loop them without having to buckle them.

[lurath]

Oh, I fully expect her halo (when she has it) to be held up by her devil horns at all time

[coneycat]

The problem I would foresee with that idea is, if anything unexpected happened it would be difficult to go back to a regular rein aid, because they'd be backwards.

Unless you had two sets of reins on your bit--buckle reins set normally so they could be picked up if needed. Or someone on the ground to help out if something spooked the horse.

Had the person who offered the suggestion had good results with the method, or were they just theorizing, do you know?

[colebaltblue]

The person that suggested this trained Arabian horses and showed them for people years before I met her (she also was a hot-shot hunter/jumper when she was young too). I actually didn't get into too much detail with her about training western horses. I did see her dressage training methods and really liked them. I also rode with her trainer and loved her. I rode some of her horses she trained from the ground up (dressage) and they were lovely horses to ride, but she was never in the business and did training as a side gig and mostly for pleasure people who didn't want to pay a Big Name Trainer type by wanted good, quiet, rideable horses

[a_quick_one]

A huge part of how your horse acts off property is down to you - if you're nervous about how she'll act up, then she'll act up. If you're not, that's a HUGE help. I try to think about my weak points and concentrate on being correct myself (especially as if I'm correct it positively effects my horses), rather than what they may do (thinking about what could go wrong is NEVER helpful!). For me, it's to stay in my lower leg and not baby my bad ankle (I fell off and broke it and two surgeries later) - for you it could be something completely different. You mention in an above post that she sees you as a leader. I'm not into NH at all, but I still see that as a HUGE advantage. If you're nervous, she is. If you're not, then she'll at least think about it before losing it (and that split-second is helpful if she does

[lurath]

Thanks for the advice.

My horse feeds of my emotions like you wouldn't believe, so that is a concern too. She is a rescue, so she also has her own emotional baggage to work through (with my help, always!). I suspect this is a fundamental issue we will come back to again and again, though I wouldn't have it any other way. Having such a sensitive horse means I always need to be aware of myself, which has been great for MY confidence.

I'll have to check and see if there is any kind of hunter pace where we could just do figures in the grass - she tends to dislike buildings and whatnot MORE so that may be a good transition place for her.

This would ALL be so much easier if i had my own truck and trailer! Ugh...