Question about neck reining and trips away from "home"...

[lurath]

My mare, Deli, is at the end of a rehabilitation track for a popped/fractured splint bone after being kicked by a pasture mate and to stay off boredom (for both of us) I have been teaching her to neck rein. I know HOW to neck rein, but I have never trained a horse to do so

Comments

[coneycat]

About the neck reining--my first serious Western coach used to start off by bridging the split reins (so the end of the left rein crossed over the horse's neck and hung down the right side, and vice versa.) (I see by your photos that you won't be using split reins!)

Then she would pick up both reins in one hand, but be ready to change hands. When she wanted the horse to go right, she'd have the reins in her left hand and move that hand across the horse's neck toward the right. She didn't drag on the reins at all, but she would make a move with her hand. If the horse didn't move to the right in response, she would put her right hand on the right rein, slide it down the rein, and add direct pressure on that right side.

Her theory (which worked on every horse she trained) was that she was giving the horse the cue, then reinforcing it in a way the horse already understood (because of course western horses are started two-handed in snaffles or bosals.) The horse would eventually understand the rein cue.

Couple of other things for you to keep in mind:

1) Neck reining is a "finished" skill, so don't get discouraged if it takes a while.

2) Also, the principle of neck reining is part of the whole idea of riding the horse on a very light contact. Like, if you want the horse to go right and drag your hand over to the point where there is pressure on the left rein too, you're doing it wrong. The idea is that the weight of the rein does most of the work--the horse can feel the pressure of just the rein.

This is a lot easier if you are riding your horse in some sort of shank bit: the leverage effect of the shank means that the horse can feel the weight of the rein more clearly than she would in a snaffle bit (again--western babies are started two-handed in a snaffle or bosal. In fact, my mare is western trained and has never been ridden in a shank or taught to neck rein, because I suck.)

Since you seem to be riding your horse in a snaffle, just remind yourself that this process will probably take longer to get through to your horse. Use that "I move my rein hand and back it up with a second hand in the direction I'm turning" process all the time, and be patient with yourself.

I hope this is reasonably clear--let me know if I need to clarify anything. And have fun with it! :)

[lurath]

THANK YOU! This is a very helpful comment. I do have some snap-on split reins I can use, which might be better length-wise since they are much longer than my typical English braided reins.

I have not considered riding Deli in a shank bit and am somewhat wary of trying one since she is very light and sensitive in the mouth. Of course, ideally she wouldn't ever be touched in the mouth if we are neck reining! Still, in the past year she has been much more accepting of the bit, so maybe it will be something to try for experimentation sake. Any recommendations on the first type of shank-bit to try? I know the most about plain curb bits in combination with a bradoon for double bridles used in dressage.

[coneycat]

I wasn't really advising you to try a shank, just remarking that the process will take more time/reinforcement in the snaffle. (I totally get not wanting to add that other component like a shank bit. I wouldn't either.)

It just occurred to me that you might be able to find a rein that's weighted up at the end that attaches to the bit. I'm sure I've seen those--the leather is a lot thicker at that end, which gives it more heft, which makes the cues come through stronger. I bet something like that would work, and then you wouldn't need to use a different bit.

Actually, I know we don't usually advertise products for Big Name Trainers here, but those reins John Lyons uses might be just the ticket: the buckle attachment and the way the nylon is looped through the attachment would probably be enough weight to do the trick with a snaffle. Something like that would probably work find with the bit you've got, and they look like they'd be easy to swap out with your normal reins.

[coneycat]

Actually--the leather part on the Lyons reins seems to be called a "slobber strap," and the idea is to add weight to a regular rein. That should make it easier for your mare to feel the cues with your snaffle.

Maybe look into getting a set of slobber straps and attaching a regular western rein to them. I don't know if the snap-on ones you have would work, though. You might be able to get a decent set of heavy reins used in your area.

[lurath]

I like this idea! Using heavy reins absolutely makes sense (now that you've mentioned it!), and including the slobber strap does seem as though it would add weight. Is this why I see western reins with what look like metal rings or beads along the length closest to the bit? I always thought the only purpose was for decoration and not weight. Hello, light-bulb moment!

I know for certain we have some perfect reins at the local tack shop that should do the trick, and they would be quite nice for trail riding too. I don't know if my snap-on reins would work great because they are too short (even shorter than my English reins) to neck rein effectively.

I'm not against a curb bit necessarily - I may need to introduce her to one at some point in the far future if we attempt mounted archery. Of course, that's all speculative and I would prefer to do so when she is old-hat at everything!

Thanks again for the advice - this is great stuff.

[coneycat]

Hey, glad to help! I hope you have a lot of fun with this :).

[lurath]

As far as giving the neck-cue first and then going to direct rein, I don't tend to pull or bump for direct rein, but rather open a space for her to go - the only difference would be that for neck reining the opposite rein would be against her neck as opposed to stationary. From dressage if I'm going to have contact with only one rein, it's going to be the outside rein, so I feel like she is getting confused because the pressure on her neck is similar to having contact (does that make sense?). I imagine the heavier reins will help clarify the communication and solve this problem though. She knows that pulling or bumping means "this way" but that degree is typically only used when she is being naughty. I'm kind of spoiled in that she moves rather well of my seat alone...
Thanks for the advice! Very helpful. I'll keep the Billy Allens in mind if I ever switch her to a curb too.

[greenanimal]

Slobber straps are also used to teach a horse that's new to a bit when pressure is coming, so they have some warning before it pulls on the bit.

I second reinforcing the neck rein with a direct rein, this is how I taught Magic.

[lurath]

I might just get some heavier snap-on cotton reins, because the snap-on kind are kick ass for trail riding (insta-lead!) -- not sure if the slobber straps will add a significant amount of weight in that respect? She does not really need a warning that bit pressure is coming as it is...

[colebaltblue]

There used to be a Lyons trainer at my old barn, those Lyons reins are VERY SHORT! They're actually even shorter than my braided english reins. They're also very, very, very thick making them uncomfortable to hold they way you'd normally hold your reins. So yeah, what everyone is saying here is a great idea, just don't waste your money on the actual Lyons brand.

[lurath]

Good to know - they look exactly like the cheap-but-sturdy clip on reins I have already (except with fancy tassels), which are pretty short (they were perfect for when I started her and needed softer shorter reins, but now I just use them for trails). I've seen some rather long reins at the tack store that might be appropriate. I like to handle my reins before I buy them, which is a metaphor for so many things :P

[coneycat]

Ooh, that's good to know--I was thinking about the slobber straps and didn't know they were so short. I appreciate the info too!

[colebaltblue]

Yeah, and that's a chicago screw on in front of the buckle so they NEVER come off easily - in fact, most of the Lyons riders at my old barn actually removed the screw and just used the buckle. It also made it extremely annoying when I'd exercise their horses to have to use those Lyons reins since you can't remove them easily. I eventually gave up, snapped on a pair of basic leather reins and tied up the Lyons reins while I rode. I really feel that most of the Lyons products are good idea/poor execution - and I've seen/used them all!

[coneycat]

In my experience the only time a chicago screw comes off easily is when it unexpectedly falls off in the middle of a ride. I hate those things! Thank you for the insight!