Sorry, everyone - this is too important to me personally for a cut.
In July of 2002, I found myself walking, at the break of dawn, with two large bags and a medium-sized puppy, down the sand road in
Djeol. I was on my way to Kaedi, thence to Nouakchott, thence to Paris and Los Angeles for the baptism of my godchildren. The journey was going to
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