in a crash

[danbok]

just got back from middle....had possibly the best surf I've had in.....2 years or so. A long time anyway. Like every wave I was getting a massive adrenalin rush from...it wasn't huge...maybe 4 foot...but the waves were super steep and fast, and I was just taking really good lines to get long waves....so much fun. And I was paddling a lot stronger

Comments

[twilight_frog]

I don't really feel like drinking that much anyway
*shock* was that really dan writing this?

[danbok]

:o...yes it was!