in a crash

Jan 28, 2006 14:21

just got back from middle....had possibly the best surf I've had in.....2 years or so. A long time anyway. Like every wave I was getting a massive adrenalin rush from...it wasn't huge...maybe 4 foot...but the waves were super steep and fast, and I was just taking really good lines to get long waves....so much fun. And I was paddling a lot stronger than usual, which is good, though I'm not entirely sure...maybe my general fitness is just at a pretty good level now. Something like that....I suppose I've done quite a lot of swimming of late. So yeah, it was super good. Although I may have gotten a tad sunburnt, comes with the territory though. I saw Leon driving back, I should call him and see if he's coming/knows about tonight.

You do a lot of mileage down here....if we drove this distance people would accuse us of being insane....

first we drove to Tura Beach to drop Alison off at Lauren's..surf there was pretty crappo, checked the Merimbula beaches, same deal....headed for Bournda Island, Dad picked up a hitchhiker who stunk of cigarettes and said "fuck" about 8 times per sentence....we weren't driving much further so we dropped him off at the turnoff....went in to Bournda Island, surf was still no good....dad's like let's go to Middle...cos really, we shoulda gone there in the first place, it was the right conditions for it. Went by mr hitchhiker again, so dad picked him up and dropped him off in Tathra. So already we've done about 50k's, then we head down to Middle, good surf, good times. Like the surf wasn't AWESOME or anything, I was just getting sweet rides on every wave, was very happy with myself.

So the plan has changed for tonight, I'm just gonna drive to the party...I don't really feel like drinking that much anyway......so gonna drive Alison, gabe and Lauren out there, then come back later on...means I don't suffer the discomfort of sleeping in the car. I wonder who else will be rocking up at the party....I don't really know/care too much. I might not even stay a terribly long amount of time. it's my choice cos I'm the driver :)

was thinking of making a mix tape, but I couldn't be bothered, I can just plug my mp3 player into a car kit. That thing is weird...there's some files it will recongnise at some it won't....these are both wma and mp3 (what it accepts)...I dunno....I think it's pretty suss about folders, but it reads some...I really don't know....but anyway...I can put stuff of Ali's computer on there too. All is well

middle beach, beach, driving, bodyboarding, bega

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