Adding Ease for Cording or Quilting?
I'm slowly working my way towards a pair of regency stays using the pattern from Period Costumes for Stage and Screen (Page 46) I would really like to do something decorative (Quilting or cording) but am not really sure how much ease I should add to compensate for shrinking? I imagine with cording the shrinking could also be directional?
Right now I am thinking of focusing the detailing to the bust and hip gores, and front section of the stays. Ease for the gores could be added to the sides? But for the front, I should slice and add ease periodically right?
Also, Is there a recommended Diameter for cording? I imagine a lot is intended decorative effect?
Some info on cording from the memories:
http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/386858.html
- Cording: Any cord like string used inserted in sewn channels. I buy cotton cording at the dressmakers' supply shops, comes in many sizes. Hemp cord is stiffer and preffered by some. I suppose you can use nearly any type of cord.
-For the cording in my current project I have been using 100% cotton string in a heavy weight. I did cording samples with sewing shop cording, hemp cord, sissal cord, string and waxed cotton cord (as used for stringing beads). I liked the string best as it gave a very stiff finish though not as stiff as the sissal which was too stiff to do what I wanted. For a softer corded look I would probably just use the sewing shop cording. I have also seen some historical corsets where it was described as cording but used thin canes, which would liik very similar but be quite sturdy.
My mock-up: (Lucky #3)
The gores still need a bit of work (I'v decided to go with the two gore view) This mock-p is Made from REALLY heavy painters canvas.
So far I'v been planning to use some satin coutil and linen to construct the corset. Do you guys think it would be better to get some medium or heavy weight linen to use with the coutil? I know regency corsets are usually more light weight, but I don't want to make it *too light* . I'v been boning it mostly with plastic zips ties, with one spiral steel at the side seam, and center back. I don't have a wooden busk yet, so I have been using my metal veryform curve ruler.
I'm hoping you guys can help me out, these stays are a bit beyond my usual area of sewing, and I think I might go a little insane if I spent all that time cording just for my corset to end up too small!!! hopefully I'm worrying about nothing.
*edit- I whent through all my books last nigght, and found a really good tutorial on how to cord (all types of garments) in Couture Sewing Tecniques by Clair B. Schaffer, page 207-208. It calls it Trapunto, and gives instructions for inserting cord and batting.
-Thanks Izodiea
Right now I am thinking of focusing the detailing to the bust and hip gores, and front section of the stays. Ease for the gores could be added to the sides? But for the front, I should slice and add ease periodically right?
Also, Is there a recommended Diameter for cording? I imagine a lot is intended decorative effect?
Some info on cording from the memories:
http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/386858.html
- Cording: Any cord like string used inserted in sewn channels. I buy cotton cording at the dressmakers' supply shops, comes in many sizes. Hemp cord is stiffer and preffered by some. I suppose you can use nearly any type of cord.
-For the cording in my current project I have been using 100% cotton string in a heavy weight. I did cording samples with sewing shop cording, hemp cord, sissal cord, string and waxed cotton cord (as used for stringing beads). I liked the string best as it gave a very stiff finish though not as stiff as the sissal which was too stiff to do what I wanted. For a softer corded look I would probably just use the sewing shop cording. I have also seen some historical corsets where it was described as cording but used thin canes, which would liik very similar but be quite sturdy.
My mock-up: (Lucky #3)
The gores still need a bit of work (I'v decided to go with the two gore view) This mock-p is Made from REALLY heavy painters canvas.
So far I'v been planning to use some satin coutil and linen to construct the corset. Do you guys think it would be better to get some medium or heavy weight linen to use with the coutil? I know regency corsets are usually more light weight, but I don't want to make it *too light* . I'v been boning it mostly with plastic zips ties, with one spiral steel at the side seam, and center back. I don't have a wooden busk yet, so I have been using my metal veryform curve ruler.
I'm hoping you guys can help me out, these stays are a bit beyond my usual area of sewing, and I think I might go a little insane if I spent all that time cording just for my corset to end up too small!!! hopefully I'm worrying about nothing.
*edit- I whent through all my books last nigght, and found a really good tutorial on how to cord (all types of garments) in Couture Sewing Tecniques by Clair B. Schaffer, page 207-208. It calls it Trapunto, and gives instructions for inserting cord and batting.
-Thanks Izodiea