My train trip through Japan part 6/? [October 2019]

Apr 25, 2020 21:50

In my previous travel report about my traintrip through Japan, I told you there was a typhoon heading for Japan, and as a precaution all shinkansen (intercity bullettrains) were suspended. This forced me to spend an extra day in Kyoto, where I would be safe. I really didn't mind travel coming to a halt for a bit, as I had become weary from having to move about so fast. I was even rather happy because it gave me time to leisurely explore a part of Kyoto that I had been sad about missing out. I also didn't mind the rain and drop in temperature that the typhoon caused in this part of the country, as I quite like windy weather and I had brought my sturdy waterproof Dutch "summer" jacket:)

Let's go!

Day 7: A stormy day in Kyoto
[Saturday, October 12]



While I leave the summery blouses to air out, I prepare to go out in the rain, yay! The colder weather makes me feel more at home:)
The subway was still going; look how organized it is, rules-rules-rules, I love them so. (Yes, I too notice people walking down the wrong side, not a usual sight here actually)




The entrance to the Shinkansen part of the train station and the service information announcement.




Happy penguins outside of the Kyoto Station.
I get on the bus to Kinkaku-ji Temple (part of the Rokuo-ji temple complex, but Kinkaku is the most famous and thus the name on the bus schedule:)




It's about a 45 minute ride to the Rokuo-ji temple complex. Windy!




Just as I'm about to walk around a corner in the temple park, there is a giant blast of wind that knocks all the Japanese tourists in front of me off their feet. Fortunately nobody gets hurt and we all kind of laugh about how silly we are for being determined to visit this place in this storm. Well worth it though: there is Kinkaku, the Golden Pavilion in all its glory. Too bad the reflecting pond Kyoko-chi is not doing its thing in the rain, but I'm impressed nonetheless:)

image Click to view


Kinkaku combines different architectural styles. The first floor is Shinden-zukuri type (popular with Japanese aristocrats) and called Hossui-in. the second floor is Shoin-zukuri type (typical for Bushi clans) and called Cho'on-do. The third floor is Zen-shu-Butsu-den type (common in Zen temples) and named Kukkyocho. The inside of this top part is also completly covered with gold.




Originally built in 1397, and reconstructed after a fire in 1955, this three-story pavilion is covered in bright gold leaf and has a bronze phoenix on top. <3




A set of Jizo Buddhist figures (with a pile of coins that visitors toss with their prayers).
The stone pagoda on the islet in Anmin-taku pond is called Hakuja-zuka, or a white snake mound.




As I wander through the park of the Rokuo-ji temple complex I keep seeing glimpses of Kinkaku-ji.
Fudo-do is the oldest structure in the entire temple, built in the late 16th century. There is incense burning in the cauldron in front of it. (In the background you can see all the wooden charms you can buy for your prayers.)




On a sunny day I would walk, but in this weather the next temple is a bit too far, so I get on the bus to Ryoanji Temple. From the busstop it's across the street up a steep set of steps.




Kyoyochi Pond was made in the late twelfth century and full of water lilies.
I crossed that little stone bridge in the back to the Shrine hidden in between the thick bushes.




A stone Buddhist figure and.... the Rock Garden, a rectangular Zen guarden that the Ryoanji Temple is famous for.




Created at the end of the Muromachi Period (around 1500) by Zen monk Tokuho Zenketsu.
I tried sitting in contemplative silence as is the custom, but I kept hearing Spike in my head: "It's a big rock. I can't wait to tell my friends. They don't have a rock this big."
I found the rest of the temple and the planted garden more interesting to be honest (Yes, you have to take off your shoes before you enter the temple)




Tsukubai, a stone wash-basin has a unique inscription: "I learn only to be contented." (He who learns to be content is spiritually rich, while the one whoe does not learn to be content is spiritually poor even if he is materially wealthy; this concept is important in the Zen spirit).
After a last stroll around Kyoyochi Pond, I take a bus back to Kyoto.




A very interesting ticketing system; see the little stub sticking out the machine? When you enter the bus, you take a ticket, it will have the number of the stop on it. In front of the bus is a screen telling you how much the fare will be for the zone where you will get off. The further you travel, the more you have to pay upon departing the bus.
(My Japan Rail pass is also valid in this bus, so luckily I don't need to figure out the cash:)




Back at Kyoto Station (a photo to show that they also tell you how to stand in line for the bus<3). As I enter the main hall I remember that brotherdearest told me to take some time to check out the building.




So I take the escalators all the way to the top to look at the interior.
Halfway I stop for a bit to check the view outside as well:)




Unfortunately the Sky Garden on the 11th!! floor is closed, so I just enjoy myself again taking all the escalators down while looking at this "futuristic cathedral for the transport age" (thank you, Lonely Planet)




I have so much fun, I decide to also go up the escalators in the nearby Isetan department store. Unlike familiar store escalators that zig zag on top of each other, these are combined into one long escalator where you can step off in between floors. A very surreal trip. (hard to capture in photos so these are really for my own indulgence;)




At the end of the afternoon I take the subway back to my hotel and warm up in the bath.




For my final dinner in Kyoto I of course once again go to Yayoiken and this time I eat my whole meal with the chopsticks \o/ (Well except for the soup, duh)
I have miso soup, white rice with groats and fried chicken in sweet vinegar, it's once again delicious. *licks lips*




I really love this little restaurant a lot; look at the plants on the walls, haha!
Before bed I try the macha tea, but I leave the bag in the hot water too long and it's super bitter, so I only manage a few sips.

Other than that tea, I had pretty much a perfect day. So glad I could catch my breath with this extra time in Kyoto. I'm ready to travel on tomorrow!

To be continued:)

J.

Part 1: Traveling to Japan | Part 2: Temples in Tokyo | Part 3: Nikko | Part 4: From Tokyo to Kyoto | Part 5: Nara

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