At first I thought I had a huge revelation about the dagges and how they were cut. (I even had notions that the ones on the front were attached differently than those showing on the sides. Now I believe I am beginning to understand Hunnisett's method. I am thinking that we are confused by her drawings...or she may be a little off.
But try to imagine the attachments this way. I may not be completely right...but hear me out. Imagine the dagges in her drawing attached flat against the sleeve fabric...but only at the top of the dagges. Then somehow close the bottom of the sleeve up so the dagges appear to be hanging of the bottom...
This seems like a big waste of fabric...so maybe they are just attached at the bottom of the sleeve. Perhaps she has no Seam Allowance showing....so maybe the bottom of the sleeve is sew together somehow and then the dagges "fall over" to hang off the very bottom.
Or follow through on this thought and imagine the sleeve is perhaps not closed up at all....the flaps just fall down and the long dagges are drawn up to the to make the front part....
I'll have to test this out, and that won't be for awhile....but it kind of makes sense. It uses a lot less fabric and would allow the wearer if they were so inclined to put their hands through the bottom of the sleeve rather than through the slits.
Given this, there are still a few points of confusion...
If you get a really good resolution of the mirror in the picture it looks like there is a matching set of long dagges on the back.
The other thing I need to solve is whether or not the there is a backing on the dagges...i.e. are they created as sets of three pleats (in the case of the front) or just hanging individually?
I have an initial estimation of the fabric needed for the gown and sleeves (-minus the dagges)....
It looks like that whole dress can be made out of 60" fabric without piecing using about 7 yards of fabric....
That seems nuts to me given how full it is......I'll be noodling on that while I am gone.
The other thing I have been fiddling with is fabric weights. I cut up a bunch of 1" squares of different kinds of fabric (and a small piece of rabbit fur) and had my husband weigh them..
I'll post that too. Right now my calcs are showing that 20 yards of my 100% wool gabardine only weighs about 10 lbs. 7 yards of rabbit fur only weighs about 5.5 lbs.....not so bad....though I don't think I want to wear fur in AZ! Nor could I afford anything other than rabbit fur and my friend assures me it sheds WAY too much.
Thats all for now!
Sg
http://www.apparelsearch.com/conversion_chart_fabric.htm