Defining My Style
As hinted in my last post, I've been working on defining my style. The fashion and style blog You Look Fab, by Angie, has been amazing in this process.
Part of defining personal is recognizing that it changes over time - and being okay with that! Defining style is very helpful with problems, like when there's nothing you want to wear, nothing that feels like you or fits the occasion or the weather. It also helps a LOT for planning purchases and for budgeting. That's where I'm mostly focused these days.
About 8-10 years ago I got really into vintage, particularly 30s and 40s. For years I wore a lot of vintage (including seamed stockings) and me-made basics from vintage patterns, with purchased modern items in the right style to round things out. It was the first time I ever really worked on developing a particular style, and I really enjoyed it. It was a goal, which felt good to work on. Although it wasn't fashionable, it was far enough outside fashion that it really was just an individual style. And I discovered the cuts and styles that not only fit me, but looked really good.
Purchases have a habit of building up over the years. When I started, I had practically no vintage shoes. 5 years in, I had at least a dozen pairs in my size 9's, plus repros. In a similar fashion, my modern-but-acceptable pieces accumulated, as did the basics that I made. I allowed my style to shift when I realized that I was shunning some pretty modern fashion, as well as later vintage, solely because it didn't fit the 40s. And some of my vintage wasn't as pretty as I liked anyway, or was actually more uncomfortable than I wanted. So why make myself keep using them and avoiding other things? Hence, shift!
These days I very rarely wear actual vintage in day-to-day life, except for a couple of pairs of shoes and some jewelry. The shift was very gradual and is still continuing. I wear a lot of new pieces and I do like trends, yet somehow, I'm still "the girl who always wears vintage." And I don't mind this; the aesthetic has sunk in very deeply. The vast majority of what I wear is still retro or vintage-inspired, and I have no plans to change this. As Angie just recently pointed out, retro styles transcend trends. Even as my head-to-toe vintage wasn't "wrong"; it just literally wasn't "current."
What I'm doing now is being intentional with grown-up and modern details. I don't follow ANY age-related rules, but I just don't like details that are too cutesy, or rockabilly, or school-girlish. Like when I wear circle skirts, I avoid ballet flats and go for sophisticated heels or boots. To keep details updated, I've really paying attend to trends and movements in fashion, mostly per You Look Fab. I've NEVER seen anyone analyze runway shows like Angie does! She sees past the bizarre styling and exaggeration to see what the trend is and what sorts of things will be showing up in the stores. And then she advises on ways to incorporate pieces with other things.
Some modern things I currently like are pointy-toe flats and shoes, modern jewelry, moto jackets, and drapey cardigans. I've got a lot of eShakti dresses that I LOVE. With peep-toes and a brooch, they would be overpoweringly retro, and possibly cutesy-young. But a couple of modern items add an edge to the dress and makes the whole outfit interesting. And for winter, I've long struggled with coat issues that pears have, which are even worse with cozy full skirts and sweaters. I went to boots, leggings, and short dresses/long tunics, and was warm, cut, and SO comfortable. I've also gotten into the "sporty" thing, with fashion sneakers! I wore lightweight white Skechers with bungees when I went to Costume College, and they were wonderful with my eShakti dresses.
So my style journey is in a good place. What's not in a good place is my closet - lots and lots of clothes, many that have long been unworn. What's also not good is my shoe collection - also lots and lots, but the majority in vintage or retro styles and heels. Heels over 2" are not fun for me to wear for a full day any more, and I have quite a collection that goes up to 3". Also, I still have a significant shortage in casual footwear. I spent years working on the vintage and retro heels and wedges, and neglected the then-unnecessary other styles.
So there needs to be a more stringent shoe clean-out. I'm unlikely to pass on any of the vintage pairs or the nice heels that are for occasional use; but unworn sandals or stop-gap purchases can be passed on. Then I will have room for shoes that fit my style better. Footwear is a key part of most outfits for me. My feet are easy to fit, as opposed to other clothing, and I really like how they can update an outfit with a dress, skirt, or sweater that I've had for years.
The actual definition thing was tricky, though. I started by listing a lot of adjectives that I thought might work, per: Adjectives to define style. It also helped to list some of the adjectives I knew did NOT describe me (such as minimal, preppy, or rough around the edges), and also a list of styles I've been tempted by but just don't work for me (outdoorsy, maximal, boho). Keeping in mind all the time that one of the most important factors is happiness. Color makes me happy, while all neutrals or darks makes me sad, so "colorful" was definitely one of my top factors.
Eventually I sorted it down to fewer adjectives, and pick 5 to fit in the following statement:
"I like to wear ______ outfits that are ______, ______, ______, and ________."
This is my current one, which of course I am free to change at any time!
I like to wear appropriate outfits that are colorful, comfortable, structured, and elegant.
1. Appropriate: I enjoy watching the forecast and crafting the day's outfit to respond to the weather, environment, activities. I get flustered when I'm unprepared for rain, cold, or heat, or I mistake the environment of a particular activity.
2. Colorful: I love to wear color, including white - both a color and a neutral. To wear all dark colors makes me sad, so I always include a pretty color. My favorites are mid-tones in all variations of reds, pinks, greens, and blues, and some purples and true yellows.
3. Comfortable: I am happiest in clothing that does not pinch, rub, ride up, or bind. Correct size and fit are very important for comfort, though I do not mind a reasonably snug waistline.
4. Structured: I much prefer clothing that combines gentle flowing lines with a neat fit at places like the shoulders and waist. I like how these points give definition without exaggeration.
5. Elegant: I like pretty and feminine things, but too much fluff makes me feel sloppy. I am drawn to the cut and design of dressier pieces, so I have learned to seek similar shapes in more casual colors and materials, and to incorporate casual accessories.
Then I went on to thinking about some of the Factors that also influence my style. There are both internal and external factors.
Internal
1. Style Preferences
Vintage 30s, 40s, and 50s aesthetic is a very strong influence with me. I enjoy trends and current style, and combining modern pieces with retro.
2. Body Type
I am an exaggerated pretty pear with hourglass tendencies. Clothing that follows conventional figure flattering guidelines is VERY flattering on me. It is difficult for me to let go of that and enjoy "just flattering enough." There is very little middle ground for me, though I look diligently for pieces that tweak the proportions enough. (Like the lace knit cropped sweater that looks just right with my white pique 50s skirt.) I also experiment with other elements, like footwear with ankle straps and high contrast, that are not conventionally flattering. I don't want to be so rigid that I CAN'T let go of the flattering guidelines.
3. Outfit Variety
I love variety and enjoy new combinations. I continue to feel motivated in silhouette experimentation, new shoe styles, and "just flattering enough" because of the variety.
External
1. Lifestyle
I work in a business casual office. I dress a step above casual for church, and in solids for the choir. I like to be dressed cute for errands as well as casual social events. I do go to weddings and shows upon occasion, and I maintain my house and yard.
An imaginary lifestyle I used to buy for is outdoorsy, hiking and camping. As a child we would occasionally do these things, but very rarely now. And the weather is usually quite hot if we were to. So I resist khaki and olive, fleece and flannel, cargo pockets, and hiking boots.
2. Climate
I have a 4-season climate with a significant temperature and precipitation range. Summer is the dominant season, and from hot to very hot; winter is shorter but wet, including ice and snow. All buildings are climate-controlled, and I do not use public transportation. I find that I'm happiest with extensive capsules for both summer and winter. Summer is hot or very hot for a long time, so I have a lot of clothing for both variety and to limit wear and sweat damage. Plus a number of light cardigans and jackets for work in the A/C. Winter is damp, cold, and windy, and I feel it; so I have a fairly large capsule of warm clothes. I also have a number of coats because a lack of variety brings down my spirits.
3. Environment
The workplace has a lot of leeway for both business dress and casual dress. My particular workgroup tends more businesslike. I rarely dress businesslike, but my style is almost exclusively dresses and skirts and does not seem as casual as it feels to me. Church is very large and not at all strict; I prefer to dress up slightly to be more respectful and focused, and I wear solid colors as is requested of those in the choir. I avoid very short skirts (unless over leggings, and there's still a limit) and cleavage, and I do not like visible undercloth (unless it's a petticoat flashing in the wind, in which case it's doing it's job!).
4. Budget
For someone who loves fashion like I do, I've got a pretty small budget, and it's very hard to stick to it! In honesty, it's divided among costuming and reenacting as well. I am hoping to improve my habits by defining my style, which will allow me to budget more specifically for certain items.
Where does that leave me? Nowhere new, but I have a much better idea of "what I am" at this point in time. It's nice to finally put into words what I go for. And as I continue to experiment - like with fall and winter shoes - it will help me to stay focused and figure out what works best.