I made the Elizabethan Simplicity stays... the bust-lift is quite decent, but they are rather too long in the waist (at the sides) and dig in like whoa, which would probably mostly be solved by boned tabs, but I wanted to just make them by the pattern and see how they turned out. So too small around in the waist (perhaps because it's too long), and tabs should definitely be boned. Okay.
So then I made up stays by the corset pattern generator, which ended up being way too short in the waist! So they don't have anything supporting them, so they don't push up the chest as they kind of need to. And maybe they're too big around? They feel quite snug, but they're laced all the way so who knows. Straps are a must simply to get my chest anywhere near where it should be, but doing that lifts the tabs away from my hips. Sadface. The boning pattern of the boned-tab stays is also weird, and doesn't really lend itself to a cone shape. Sadface no. 2.
The top line (in front at least) is identical to the Simplicity stays, and the difference between the waists at the sides is 2". So I guess a happy waist-place would be right in the middle - 1" higher than the Simplicity stays, or 1" lower than the generator stays. Sooo don't feel like making a third set of stays in a week, so I'm giving up for now, and hoping that making and tying on some shoulder straps will solve the problem, because the generator ones are at least much more comfortable by dint of the shorter waist, so I'd very much like the bust problem to be solvable!