Christmas is not the same all over the world. Traditions change from one country to another and how Christmas is celebrated is one of them. In this post I’m going to explain some things we do in the Basque Country at Christmas. Not just Christmas day, but the whole “Christmas holiday” (school holiday period). My family, for example, celebrates:
December 24th: Christmas Eve / Nochebuena / Gabon-gaua
December 25th: Christmas Day / Navidad / Eguberria
December 31st: New Year’s Eve / Nochevieja / Gabon zahar
January 1st: New Year’s Day / Año nuevo / Urteberri-eguna
January 6th: 3 King’s day (Magi day? 3 Wise Men day?) / Día de Reyes / Errege eguna
The truth is, for us, the Basque people, Christmas is just one of the many “excuses” to gather around a table and have a great meal. Yes, that’s us the Basque people and food, don’t know why but we celebrate everything around a table with lots of food xDD
Let's get down to business
Olentzero
The Basque people don’t really have Father Christmas/Santa Claus. Instead we have a man named Olentzero who is basically the “equivalent” to Santa or Father Christmas. The word Olentzero in Euskera/Basque is supposed to mean "time of the good ones" (didn't know about this until now...)
There are many variations to the Olentzero traditions and stories connected to him, sometimes varying from village to village. I'll tell you about “my tradition”, cause that’s what I know best.
The story goes that Olentzero was a mythical figure who lived on a mountain before Jesus was born. He saw a bright cloud (??) one day and knew that Jesus had been born and wanted to let the people in the town at the bottom of the hill know. He was the person who brought the news of Jesus' birth to the townspeople and returns every December 24th to bring gifts to the people.
Olentzero is a coal miner, actually, which is the reason that good kids get presents and bad kids get coal here (very sugary/sweet and tasty coal, though. I should know, I’ve tried it one too many times :D).
Olentzero is depicted as a lovable character, widely attributed to being overweight, having a huge appetite and thirst (100% Basque xDD). He is depicted as a Basque peasant wearing a Basque beret (
txapela), a farmer's attire with traditional
abarketa shoes and smoking a pipe. Whether he has a beard or not is not yet an established tradition. Sometimes his face is stained with charcoal, as a sign of his trade as a charcoal-burner. (Thanx Wikipedia for this accurate description!)
Here's a picture of him:
I said earlier that there’s something about Basque people and food... well, you won’t make it complete until you add singing to the mixture! We have two songs about Olentzero. I just learnt this, can you believe it? I thought it was only one song, but it seems that what I thought was the Olentzero song is actually a mixture of both!
Olentzero
Olentzero joan zaigu
mendira lanera,
intentzioarekin
ikatz egitera.
Aditu duenean
Jesus jaio dela
lasterka etorri da
berri ematera.
Horra horra
gure Olentzero
pipa hortzetan dulea
eserita dago.
Kapoiak ere ba'itu
arraultzatxoekin
bihar meriendatzeko
botila ardoakin.
Olentzero gurea
ezin dugu ase
osorik jan dizkigu
hamar txerri gazte.
Saiheski ta solomo
horrenbeste heste
Jesus jaio delako
erruki zaitezte.
Olentzerok dakarzki
atsegin ta poza
jakin baitu mendian
Jesusen jaiotza.
Egun argi honetan
alaitu bihotza
kanpo eta barruan
kendu azkar hotza.
Olentzero has gone
to the mountains to work
with the intention
of making charcoal.
When he heard
that Jesus had been born
he came running
to bring the news.
There he is, there he is
our Olentzero
with the pipe between his teeth
he sits.
He also has capons
with little eggs,
to celebrate tomorrow
with a bottle of wine.
Our Olentzero
we can't sate him
he has eaten whole
ten piglets.
Ribs and pork loin
so many intestines
because Jesus is born
have mercy.
Olentzero brings
happiness and joy
because he has heard on the mountain
of Jesus' birth.
On this bright day
heart, rejoice
outside and inside
quickly loose the chill.
Olentzero buru handia
Olentzero buru handia
entendimentuz jantzia
bart arratsean edan omen du
bost arroako* zahagia.
Ai urde tripahandia!
Tralaralala, tralaralala.
Ai urde tripahandia!
Tralaralala, tralaralala.
Olentzero big head
robed in understanding
is said to have drunk last night
a wineskin of five arrobas*
Oh big-bellied pig!
Tralaralala, tralaralala.
Oh big-bellied pig!
Tralaralala, tralaralala.
*An arroba is an old measure equivalent to just over 11kg.
And last but not least, this version that I learnt as a kid and thought was the only Olentzero song (lyrics below):
Olentzero joan zaigu
mendira lanera
intentzioarekin
ikatza egitera.
Aditu duenean
Jesus jaio dala
lasterka etorri da
berri ematera.
Horra! Horra!
Gure Olentzero!
Pipa hortzetan duela
eserita dago
kapoiak ere baditu
arraultzatxoekin
bihar meriendatzeko
botila ardoakin.
Olentzero buruhandia
entendimentuz jantzia
bart arratsian edan omen du
hamar arroako zahagia
Ai urde tripahandia!
Tralaralala, tralaralala.
Ai urde tripahandia!
Tralaralala, tralaralala.
Olentzero has gone
to the mountains to work
with the intention
of making charcoal.
When he heard
that Jesus had been born
he came running
to bring the news
There he is, there he is
our Olentzero
with the pipe between his teeth
he sits.
He also has capons
with little eggs,
to celebrate tomorrow
with a bottle of wine.
Olentzero big head
robed in understanding
is said to have drunk last night
a wineskin of ten arrobas
Oh big-bellied pig!
Tralaralala, tralaralala.
Oh big-bellied pig!
Tralaralala, tralaralala.
And here goes a great video Eitb (Basque TV) produced last year to wish everyone a happy Christmas with this last version of the song (the mix of both songs). I love it! It reflects the different cultures that populate Bilbao/Euskadi nowadays.
Click to view
NOTE: This one my favourite Eitb Christmas video until yesterday, when I came across this year's Christmas video. PRICELESS!!
Click to view
Día de Reyes
This is something that is celebrated all over Spain. It’s said to be the main day of the holidays. I don’t agree, though. Not when talking about the Basque Country, anyway. In the rest o Spain? Probably.
On this day, the 3 Kings brought Jesus gifts and nowadays it is the day that children get gifts. Normally, adults do not exchange gifts and children really only get a few gifts (or sweets). Tradition says that the 3 Kings: Melchor, Gaspar and Baltasar respectivley represented Europe, Arabia and Asia and brought Jesus gold, frankicense and myrrh. Because of this, before the Spanish people go to bed, they polish and leave their shoes for the 3 Kings to arrive and leave them presents.
Also, people during the holidays dress up as the 3 Wise Men and they visit schools, orphanages, etc to visit the kids.
I forgot to mention it, but in the Basque Country the same happens with Olentzero. I still remember when I was a kid and Olentzero came to school. He came from the mountain. Literaly. He came with his donkey, bandwagon and all!! Seriuosly, no joking. Things like this only happen when you live in a small village, though :D
There’s also what we call “La Cabalgata de Reyes” (Cabalcade of Magi). It’s a typical parade of coaches practically in all the Spanish cities. The Magi ride through the streets, as their page boys throw candies to children. It’s a huge celebration in some big cities: The cavalcade of Madrid, for example, is retransmitted live on TVE (the popular public Spanish broadcaster). This event takes place on January 5th.
Here’s a video of “La Cabalgata de Reyes” this year in Bilbao. It's a little bit long, but you don't have to watch it all. It's just so that you understand my explanations a bit better :D
Click to view
Note: Each family picks which of these two they celebrate. Some celebrate only Olentzero, some celebrate only 3 Kings and some celebrate both. My family celebrates both, but Olentzero is the BIG celebration, the 3 Wise Men only bring sweets and little else.