Indiana Dunes in the Winter - A Whole Other World

Feb 12, 2012 14:07

Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore is one of the great under-appreciated treasures of the greater Chicago-Gary-Kenosha metropolitan area. Formed during the Ice Age and continuously shaped since, the Dunes are, quite simply, magnificent. But until yesterday, I've only seen them during warm weather. I've heard that Dunes look just as awesome - albeit in a different way - when they are partially buried in the winter snow. And so, I decided to try to go down to the Dunes this winter and see if there was really anything worth the fuss.



Only problem was that we haven't really had much luck with snow this winter. Chicago area didn't see its first snow until January, and even that didn't last long. So, when I woke up this Saturday to a clear sky and snow still not melted, I pretty much bolted to the station. A clear sun and snow - one could not ask for more perfect weather conditions.

But, as anybody who's lived by Lake Michigan knows, weather can change very quickly, often with little warning. By the time the South Shore Line train reached Gary, clouds started to gather. And, once the train reached Michigan City, the sky was shrouded in gray.

Michigan City's historic downtown has a certain charm - in good weather. Cloudy weather brings out all of the wear and tear it endured over the years. And, as I climbed out of the train, a strong gust of lake wind blew in my face. The wind was cold enough to drive most people indoors, making the downtown feel completely desolate.

My first impulse was to turn back and take the next train back to Chicago. But after getting some cheap lunch and checking the weather in the city library's computers, I decided to take a chance. Maybe the weather will get better by the time I get to the Dunes.

Technically, I could have just walked to the Dunes, but in this weather, I decided to take the bus as far as I could. Michigan City Transit Route 4 didn't quite reach the dunes, but it let me spend about two thirds of the trip in warmth of a heater, surrounded by friendly locals.

When I got out of the bus, the wind calmed down slightly, and sun started peering through the clouds. Encouraged, I continued onward.




Mount Baldy is one of Indiana Dunes' most iconic features. This enormous dune has been gradually shifting over the years as strong lake winds blew in fresh sand. It is one of the highest points in the entire region, giving an impressive view of the area. During the winter, this is where lots of kids go sledding - something that's explicitly forbidden by National Park Service.




Why would the Park Service prohibit something so wholesome and fun? Well, for one thing, Mount Baldy drops quite steeply, and there is a very real risk of injury if you're not careful.

Not that it stops local kids from trying anyway.

To reach the summit of Mount Baldy, you need to take a winding trail that sort of weaves around its base. At first, it looked like an average snow-covered trail. But as I got closer to the summit, the snow and sand started to mix in a pretty interesting way.




Aside from a few footprints, the trail looks pristine. Not wanting to disturb it, I tried my best to follow the footprints.




With the clouds still looming over most of the sky, the summit of Mount Baldy didn't look as colorful as it did when I visited it in warmer weather. But the heavy gray of the sky, the vast expanses of sand, the powerful ways crashing into the shore and the stark blackness of the leafless plants were impressive in their own right. The beach looked ominous, but in an intriguing way. If you were a thriller or a horror movie, you'd have an amazingly atmospheric location.










As I walked down toward the beach, I got a pretty stark view of the summit




Closer to the summit, the sand smoothed away footprints. But closer to the ground, the sand started to take on an interesting pattern.




An interesting shot from the beach level




As I stepped onto the beach, I immediately saw an interesting phenomenon - several layer of ice-covered sand. The top layers formed what looked sort of like disks, or plates.










Notice the icicles hanging off the top of each layer




Whenever the sun peeked from behind the clouds, the icy sand lit up with bright trails. The picture below doesn't quite capture it, but not for the lack of trying







Walking further west, past Mount Baldy, I saw the waves crashing further and further into the beach. Whereas before, I could walk along the sand without stepping onto the ice, I couldn't really do it anymore.




Occasionally, I'd come across a very odd... formation? I can't think of any other word to describe it.




Up on the horizon, I could see the sky clearing up. With the winds blowing strongly toward the east, I hoped that the sky above the Dunes would become clearer soon.




The crashing waves carved at the feet of the dunes, creating this interesting phenomenon










As waves crashed and receded, any debris left behind got encased in a layer of ice










They waves crashed as quickly as they receded. Sometimes, they came one after another, forcing me to wait them out on the closest rock could find. Thankfully, there were more than a few of them.




I tried to capture waves as they made impact. I was off by a couple of seconds:




Meanwhile, the sky became more and more clear, bringing new colors to the Dunes




My trip hit a sudden snag when I came across a river. I have no idea what it's called - all I known is that it's fairly small and flows through the forests around Michigan City. Last time I was at the Dunes, I was able to find a point on the beach where the river got thin enough to jump across. Not this time







For a few moments, I wondered if I would actually try to jump. I decided against it. The water was too cold and the ground was too icy. So I turned back - but not before taking a picture of the other side.




But I wasn't too disappointed. With the sun coming out, I got a chance to take some great pictures of the dunes.
















And the summit of Mount Baldy







Mount Baldy in full (or, at least, the closest I could manage with the camera's panorama function)



I climbed up Mount Baldy and went back down to the road. As I climbed, I got another interesting picture of the snow/sand mixing




The snow-covered road




Honestly, if the weather wasn't so cold and the wind wasn't so strong, I probably would have stayed longer. But that wasn't going to happen and, honestly, I was happy with what I got.

If you want to take pictures at the Dunes during the winter, a warning I never got. The ice along the beach is slippery, and it isn't always noticeable. Be very, very careful. I was careful and I still slipped five times. I didn't get hurt that much, but it was still painful.

I will close this post with a picture of a pair of reindeer I saw on the way back to the train. I wish I could have a better shot, but I didn't really have much time to set it up.


trip log, indiana, indiana dunes, michigan city, photography

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