The Master (John Simm) Crocheted Doll
This is the Master (John Simm) from the television series Doctor Who. He's the fourth doll is a series, crocheted in vaguely amigurumi style. Captions appear when you move mouse pointer over a photo.
chibi!Master is dedicated to crafty_tardis ,whooligan (which inspired the doll series), and who_knits
The Master amigurumi doll
John Simm version from Season 3 of BBC’s new Doctor Who, 2007
by Snuffykin, October 2007
This is an intermediate-experienced crochet project. The doll is 9 in/23 cm tall.
For my photos, see
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N06/tags/themaster/
--------------
Materials
worsted weight yarn
black (suit & necktie color)
white (shirt color)
cream (skin color)
dark brown (hair color)
small amounts of thin yarn or floss: brown (eyes), light pink (mouth)
optional: 2 strand floss or thread for pinstripes
yarn needle
long embroidery needle
crochet hook F
stuffing
optional: weighting material, such as poly-pellets, for torso
Suggested details you may want to add: popcorn stitch to hands as “thumb”, buttons on jacket, laser screwdriver (wood peg), oxygen mask (instructions included)
Gauge
I used so many different stash yarns and the parts are so small it's near impossible to determine gauge. You may have to adapt to what looks best to you.
Techniques
magic adjustable ring
seaming (whipstitch is ok)
basic embroidery stitches (head)
changing yarn colors within a round
optional: popcorn stitch for “thumb”
Tutorials
For magic ring tutorial
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/
For hair tutorial
http://owly.wordpress.com/2007/08/27/amigurumi-hair-tutorial/
Official photos from the series (reference for making the hairstyle):
http://www.bbc.co.uk/doctorwho/gallery/master/index.shtml
--------------
Pattern Notes
If you find errors, I'd appreciate you letting me know so I can fix them. Please do not sell this pattern or derivatives of it.
Pattern is divided into 3 sections: Body, Jacket, and Head. Make the Body first, then you can adjust the Coat size as needed. Magic adjustable ring on all parts worked in rounds, except on sleeves. The pattern using American crochet terms. For you folks in the UK or Australia, the instructions are different.
The coat sleeves are the actual arms instead of separate arms and sleeves. The torso is the shirt color, and a separate black coat “vest” is sewn over it.
Body is 4 parts: torso, 2 legs, 2 arms
Coat is 1 piece: coat “vest”
Head is 4 parts: head, ears, hair cap, hair overstitching.
BODY
TORSO
Work in rounds. With black yarn:
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
5. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
6 - 8. Sc around.
9. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 24 sts.
With white yarn (shirt color):
10 - 16. Sc around.
Begin to stuff torso before opening gets small. Add weighting material, if desired.
17. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
18. (Sc into each of the next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
HAND AND ARM - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Arm has sleeve shaping. If you would like the Master to have thumbs for his “thumbs up”, add a popcorn stitch to the side of each hand. With cream yarn (skin color):
1. Sc 4.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sc.
3-4. Sc around. Stuff hand.
5. (Sc2tog) x 4. 4 sc.
With brown (suit color):
6. (2 sc in next st) x 4. 8 sts.
7. (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 2. 10 sts.
8. In back loops, sc around.
9-16. Sc around.
17. Turn, ch 1, sc in each of next 8 sts.
18. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 6 sts.
19. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 4 sts.
20. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 2 sts.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
FEET AND LEGS - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Rounds 1-7 are shoe shaping, 8-21 are trousers.
With black yarn:
1. Sc 5.
2. 2 sc in first st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 9 st.
3. 2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
4. 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 st, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
5. Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. 10 sts.
6. Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog. 9 sts.
7. Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7 sts. 8 sts. Stuff shoe.
8. Through front loops only, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) x 4. 12 sts.
9. Through back loops only, sc around. 12 sts
10. Sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog. 10 sts.
11-21. Sc around. 10 sts. 11 rounds total.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
BODY FINISHING
Stuff arms and legs. Set arms aside for attaching to jacket later.
Pinching the open end flat, sew leg slightly toward the front at the bottom of torso. This position makes it easier to make the doll sit. Repeat for other leg.
Hide yarn tails.
JACKET
Use black yarn for all sections. Leave a few inches of yarn tails for sewing up later. Slip st at end of decrease rows makes the slant look smoother. Make sure when you turn you are NOT making the first sc into the sl st of the previous row.
Begin base section
Chain 33.
1. Skip 1 ch, sc 32. Turn. 32 sts.
2-10. Ch 1, sc 32. Turn. 32 sts.
11. Sk 1, sc 30, sl st. Turn. 30 sts.
12. Ch 1, sc 30. Turn.
Begin left front section
13. (RS) Ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 7, sl st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6, sl st.Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
19. Ch 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
20. Ch 1, sc 1.
Cut yarn. Insert hook into next st, yo, pull through st and loop on hook.
Begin back section
(RS) On 13th row, find 8th st in left front section. Skip 1 st, join yarn in next st.
13. Ch 1, sc 12, sl st. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 11, sl st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 10, sl st. Turn
16. Ch 1, sc 9, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 8.
Cut yarn. Pull through loop on hook.
Begin right front section
(RS) On 13th row, find 12 st in back section. Skip 1 st, join yarn in next st.
13. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
14. Ch 1. sc 7, sl st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6, sl st. Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
19. Ch 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
20. Ch 1, sc 1.
Cut yarn. Insert hook into next st, yo, pull through st and loop on hook.
JACKET FINISHING
Sew right arm between right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Sew side seam of right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Flip front edges over to create “lapels.” Sew in place.
Join yarn at top of a lapel. RS facing, sc around shoulder, in front loops of the back section, opposite shoulder, and join to top of opposite lapel.
Optionally, do a row of sc around shoulders and back.
Weave in yarn tails.
HEAD
Work in rounds using cream yarn. This is an egg shaped head, beginning at the narrower end. The narrow end is the “neck.” Doing it this way does make it more tricky to do the embroidery on the face later, but it makes the head look nicer -- the decreases at the top are ugly and completely covered by the hair cap.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc in next st) x 6. 12 st.
3. Sc around.
4. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
5. Sc around.
6. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
7. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
8-14. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds, and stuff before head opening gets too small.
15. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 24 sts.
16. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
17. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
At this point, you may want to jump ahead to the Finishing and embroider the face.
EAR - MAKE 2
In adjustable loop, sc 3. Sew ears on sides of head.
HAIR
You'll be making a hair cap first and then stitching hair strands over it.
Work in rounds using dark brown yarn.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sc.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6.
4. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6.
5. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6.
6-9. Sc around.
Middle Tongue
10. Sc 8, turn.
11. Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, turn. 6 sts.
12. Ch 1, sc2 tog, sc 4, turn. 5 sts.
13. Ch 1, sc2 tog, sc 3., turn. 4 sts.
14. Ch 1, (sc2tog) x 2.
Left side tongue
15. WS facing, join yarn to 4th st to the right of row 10’s edge (8th st).
16. Sc, hdc, dc, trc.
Right side tongue
17. RS facing, join yarn to 4th st to the right of row 10’s edge (1st st).
18. Sc, hdc, dc, trc.
Make sure ears are on either side of head first. Position the hair cap, pulling side parts above ears and middle part above forehead. Does it fit? If not, change the row counts to adjust.
HEAD FINISHING
Whipstitch hair cap to head, pulling side tongues above ears and middle tongue above forehead. Use satin stitch to cover the cap surface, starting at the bottom and working upward, creating hair lines. Stitch sideburns. See tutorial referred to at beginning of this pattern. Try to find of photo of the Master, if you can, as a reference. This step can take a long time. If you’re impatient, you could always try gluing yarn to the head with fabric glue.
If you haven’t done so already, make a face! Using brown floss, stitch eyes. Using light pink floss, stitch mouth. Using brown floss, stitch eyebrows. This is a bit tricky, since you have to run the floss through the center hold at the bottom of the Head.
Use cream or white yarn to sew head to Torso. Try to use the stitches on the inside neck of the torso, so that it looks the the head is emerging from the shirt.
Hide yarn tails.
NECKTIE
With black yarn, make necktie.
Using foundation crochet, sc 10, hdc, dc.
Alternately, ch 13. Sk 1 ch, sc 9, hdc, dc.
Sew wider end of necktie to neck of torso. Hide yarn tails.
OXYGEN MASK
With white, work in rounds.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into the next st, sc into each of next 2 sts) x 2. 8 sts.
3. (2 sc into the next st, sc into each of next 3 sts) x 2. 10 sts.
4. (2 sc into the next st, sc into each of next 4 sts) x 2. 12 sts.
Cut yarn, fasten off, and hide yarn tails.
MASK STRAP
Make enough chains so that strap will fit around head, while attached to the mask. Use yarn tails to sew to mask, then hide yarn tails.
FINISHING
Sew arms (shoulder ends) to torso, jacket wrong side to torso right side. This is to prevent the arm stuffing from coming out.
Overlap the fronts of jacket and sew backstitch to close.
chibi!Master is dedicated to crafty_tardis ,whooligan (which inspired the doll series), and who_knits
The Master amigurumi doll
John Simm version from Season 3 of BBC’s new Doctor Who, 2007
by Snuffykin, October 2007
This is an intermediate-experienced crochet project. The doll is 9 in/23 cm tall.
For my photos, see
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N06/tags/themaster/
--------------
Materials
worsted weight yarn
black (suit & necktie color)
white (shirt color)
cream (skin color)
dark brown (hair color)
small amounts of thin yarn or floss: brown (eyes), light pink (mouth)
optional: 2 strand floss or thread for pinstripes
yarn needle
long embroidery needle
crochet hook F
stuffing
optional: weighting material, such as poly-pellets, for torso
Suggested details you may want to add: popcorn stitch to hands as “thumb”, buttons on jacket, laser screwdriver (wood peg), oxygen mask (instructions included)
Gauge
I used so many different stash yarns and the parts are so small it's near impossible to determine gauge. You may have to adapt to what looks best to you.
Techniques
magic adjustable ring
seaming (whipstitch is ok)
basic embroidery stitches (head)
changing yarn colors within a round
optional: popcorn stitch for “thumb”
Tutorials
For magic ring tutorial
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/
For hair tutorial
http://owly.wordpress.com/2007/08/27/amigurumi-hair-tutorial/
Official photos from the series (reference for making the hairstyle):
http://www.bbc.co.uk/doctorwho/gallery/master/index.shtml
--------------
Pattern Notes
If you find errors, I'd appreciate you letting me know so I can fix them. Please do not sell this pattern or derivatives of it.
Pattern is divided into 3 sections: Body, Jacket, and Head. Make the Body first, then you can adjust the Coat size as needed. Magic adjustable ring on all parts worked in rounds, except on sleeves. The pattern using American crochet terms. For you folks in the UK or Australia, the instructions are different.
The coat sleeves are the actual arms instead of separate arms and sleeves. The torso is the shirt color, and a separate black coat “vest” is sewn over it.
Body is 4 parts: torso, 2 legs, 2 arms
Coat is 1 piece: coat “vest”
Head is 4 parts: head, ears, hair cap, hair overstitching.
BODY
TORSO
Work in rounds. With black yarn:
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
5. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
6 - 8. Sc around.
9. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 24 sts.
With white yarn (shirt color):
10 - 16. Sc around.
Begin to stuff torso before opening gets small. Add weighting material, if desired.
17. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
18. (Sc into each of the next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
HAND AND ARM - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Arm has sleeve shaping. If you would like the Master to have thumbs for his “thumbs up”, add a popcorn stitch to the side of each hand. With cream yarn (skin color):
1. Sc 4.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sc.
3-4. Sc around. Stuff hand.
5. (Sc2tog) x 4. 4 sc.
With brown (suit color):
6. (2 sc in next st) x 4. 8 sts.
7. (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 2. 10 sts.
8. In back loops, sc around.
9-16. Sc around.
17. Turn, ch 1, sc in each of next 8 sts.
18. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 6 sts.
19. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 4 sts.
20. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 2 sts.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
FEET AND LEGS - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Rounds 1-7 are shoe shaping, 8-21 are trousers.
With black yarn:
1. Sc 5.
2. 2 sc in first st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 9 st.
3. 2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
4. 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 st, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
5. Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. 10 sts.
6. Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog. 9 sts.
7. Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7 sts. 8 sts. Stuff shoe.
8. Through front loops only, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) x 4. 12 sts.
9. Through back loops only, sc around. 12 sts
10. Sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog. 10 sts.
11-21. Sc around. 10 sts. 11 rounds total.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
BODY FINISHING
Stuff arms and legs. Set arms aside for attaching to jacket later.
Pinching the open end flat, sew leg slightly toward the front at the bottom of torso. This position makes it easier to make the doll sit. Repeat for other leg.
Hide yarn tails.
JACKET
Use black yarn for all sections. Leave a few inches of yarn tails for sewing up later. Slip st at end of decrease rows makes the slant look smoother. Make sure when you turn you are NOT making the first sc into the sl st of the previous row.
Begin base section
Chain 33.
1. Skip 1 ch, sc 32. Turn. 32 sts.
2-10. Ch 1, sc 32. Turn. 32 sts.
11. Sk 1, sc 30, sl st. Turn. 30 sts.
12. Ch 1, sc 30. Turn.
Begin left front section
13. (RS) Ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 7, sl st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6, sl st.Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
19. Ch 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
20. Ch 1, sc 1.
Cut yarn. Insert hook into next st, yo, pull through st and loop on hook.
Begin back section
(RS) On 13th row, find 8th st in left front section. Skip 1 st, join yarn in next st.
13. Ch 1, sc 12, sl st. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 11, sl st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 10, sl st. Turn
16. Ch 1, sc 9, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 8.
Cut yarn. Pull through loop on hook.
Begin right front section
(RS) On 13th row, find 12 st in back section. Skip 1 st, join yarn in next st.
13. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
14. Ch 1. sc 7, sl st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6, sl st. Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
19. Ch 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
20. Ch 1, sc 1.
Cut yarn. Insert hook into next st, yo, pull through st and loop on hook.
JACKET FINISHING
Sew right arm between right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Sew side seam of right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Flip front edges over to create “lapels.” Sew in place.
Join yarn at top of a lapel. RS facing, sc around shoulder, in front loops of the back section, opposite shoulder, and join to top of opposite lapel.
Optionally, do a row of sc around shoulders and back.
Weave in yarn tails.
HEAD
Work in rounds using cream yarn. This is an egg shaped head, beginning at the narrower end. The narrow end is the “neck.” Doing it this way does make it more tricky to do the embroidery on the face later, but it makes the head look nicer -- the decreases at the top are ugly and completely covered by the hair cap.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc in next st) x 6. 12 st.
3. Sc around.
4. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
5. Sc around.
6. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
7. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
8-14. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds, and stuff before head opening gets too small.
15. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 24 sts.
16. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
17. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
At this point, you may want to jump ahead to the Finishing and embroider the face.
EAR - MAKE 2
In adjustable loop, sc 3. Sew ears on sides of head.
HAIR
You'll be making a hair cap first and then stitching hair strands over it.
Work in rounds using dark brown yarn.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sc.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6.
4. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6.
5. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6.
6-9. Sc around.
Middle Tongue
10. Sc 8, turn.
11. Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, turn. 6 sts.
12. Ch 1, sc2 tog, sc 4, turn. 5 sts.
13. Ch 1, sc2 tog, sc 3., turn. 4 sts.
14. Ch 1, (sc2tog) x 2.
Left side tongue
15. WS facing, join yarn to 4th st to the right of row 10’s edge (8th st).
16. Sc, hdc, dc, trc.
Right side tongue
17. RS facing, join yarn to 4th st to the right of row 10’s edge (1st st).
18. Sc, hdc, dc, trc.
Make sure ears are on either side of head first. Position the hair cap, pulling side parts above ears and middle part above forehead. Does it fit? If not, change the row counts to adjust.
HEAD FINISHING
Whipstitch hair cap to head, pulling side tongues above ears and middle tongue above forehead. Use satin stitch to cover the cap surface, starting at the bottom and working upward, creating hair lines. Stitch sideburns. See tutorial referred to at beginning of this pattern. Try to find of photo of the Master, if you can, as a reference. This step can take a long time. If you’re impatient, you could always try gluing yarn to the head with fabric glue.
If you haven’t done so already, make a face! Using brown floss, stitch eyes. Using light pink floss, stitch mouth. Using brown floss, stitch eyebrows. This is a bit tricky, since you have to run the floss through the center hold at the bottom of the Head.
Use cream or white yarn to sew head to Torso. Try to use the stitches on the inside neck of the torso, so that it looks the the head is emerging from the shirt.
Hide yarn tails.
NECKTIE
With black yarn, make necktie.
Using foundation crochet, sc 10, hdc, dc.
Alternately, ch 13. Sk 1 ch, sc 9, hdc, dc.
Sew wider end of necktie to neck of torso. Hide yarn tails.
OXYGEN MASK
With white, work in rounds.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into the next st, sc into each of next 2 sts) x 2. 8 sts.
3. (2 sc into the next st, sc into each of next 3 sts) x 2. 10 sts.
4. (2 sc into the next st, sc into each of next 4 sts) x 2. 12 sts.
Cut yarn, fasten off, and hide yarn tails.
MASK STRAP
Make enough chains so that strap will fit around head, while attached to the mask. Use yarn tails to sew to mask, then hide yarn tails.
FINISHING
Sew arms (shoulder ends) to torso, jacket wrong side to torso right side. This is to prevent the arm stuffing from coming out.
Overlap the fronts of jacket and sew backstitch to close.