Tenth Doctor Who doll
This is the Tenth Doctor (David Tennant) from the television series Doctor Who. He's the third crocheted doll is what is becoming accidentally a series. I made him for all the Ten fans out there. If you move your mouse over pic, there are captions
This little guy is inspired by chibi!Ten illustrations by whooligan .
Doctor Who on the forest moon Endor
"What are YOU doing here?" "What are YOU doing here?"
Cross-posted at crafty_tardis , whooligan and weloveamigurumi
10th Doctor Who amigurumi doll
by Snuffykin, October 2007
This is an intermediate-experienced crochet project. The doll is ~ 9 in/23 cm tall. If you'd like to make an overcoat for the Doctor, the pattern is here.
For more detail photos see:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N06/tags/tenthdoctor/
--------------
Materials
worsted weight yarn
linen (shoe color)
brown (suit color)
pale blue (shirt color)
cream (skin color)
dark brown (hair & necktie color)
small amounts of thin yarn or floss: brown (eyes & brows), light pink (mouth)
optional: 2 strand floss or thread for pinstripes
yarn needle
long embroidery needle
crochet hook F
stuffing
optional:
If you'd like to make an overcoat for the Doctor, the pattern is here.
weighting material like poly-pellets for torso
**If you are making Rose also, get a small strong magnet and piece of metal that sticks to it. Place inside hand of each doll, and you can make them appear to hold hands! >:-D
Suggested details you may want to add: little eyeglasses (wire or fuzzy "pipe cleaner"), pinstripes (backstitch with embroidery floss) and “buttons” on jacket, screwdriver (wood peg), glossy beads for eyes.
Gauge
I used so many different stash yarns and the parts are so small it's near impossible to determine gauge. You may have to adapt to what looks best to you.
Techniques
magic adjustable ring
seaming (whipstitch is ok)
basic embroidery stitches (head)
changing yarn colors within a round
Tutorials
For magic ring tutorial
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/
For hair tutorial
http://owly.wordpress.com/2007/08/27/amigurumi-hair-tutorial/
For foundation crochet tutorial (optional for necktie)
http://snuffykin.livejournal.com/43642.html
Official photos from the series (reference for making the hairstyle):
http://www.bbc.co.uk/doctorwho/gallery/doctor10/index.shtml
--------------
Pattern Notes
If you find errors, I'd appreciate you letting me know so I can fix them. Please do not sell this pattern or derivatives of it.
Pattern is divided into 3 sections: Body, Jacket, and Head. Make the Body first, then you can adjust the Coat size as needed. Magic adjustable ring on all parts worked in rounds, except on sleeves. The pattern using American crochet terms. For you folks in the UK or Australia, the instructions are different.
In order to retain the slim shape of the Doctor, the coat sleeves are the actual arms instead of separate arms and sleeves. The torso is the shirt color, and a separate brown coat “vest” is sewn over it.
Body is 4 parts: torso, 2 legs, 2 arms
Coat is 1 piece: coat “vest”
Head is 4 parts: head, ears, hair cap, hair tuft & overstitching.
BODY
TORSO
Work in rounds. With brown yarn:
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
5. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
6 - 8. Sc around.
9. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 24 sts.
With pale blue yarn (shirt color):
10 - 16. Sc around.
Begin to stuff torso before opening gets small. Add weighting material to bottom of torso, if desired.
17. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
18. (Sc into each of the next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
HAND AND ARM - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Arm has sleeve shaping. With cream yarn (skin color):
1. Sc 4.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sc.
3-4. Sc around. Stuff hand and put in small magnet/metal piece, if desired.
5. (Sc2tog) x 4. 4 sc.
With brown (suit color):
6. (2 sc in next st) x 4. 8 sts.
7. (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 2. 10 sts.
8. In back loops, sc around.
9-16. Sc around.
17. Turn, ch 1, sc in each of next 8 sts.
18. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 6 sts.
19. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 4 sts.
20. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 2 sts.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
FEET AND LEGS - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Rounds 1-7 are shoe shaping, 8-21 are trousers.
With linen yarn:
1. Sc 5.
2. 2 sc in first st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 9 st.
3. 2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
4. 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 st, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
5. Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. 10 sts.
6. Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog. 9 sts.
7. Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7 sts. 8 sts. Stuff shoe.
With brown yarn:
8. Through front loops only, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) x 4. 12 sts.
9. Through back loops only, sc around. 12 sts
10. Sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog. 10 sts.
11-21. Sc around. 10 sts. 11 rounds total.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
BODY FINISHING
Stuff arms and legs. Set arms aside for attaching to jacket later.
Pinching the open end flat, sew leg slightly toward the front at the bottom of torso. This position makes it easier to make the doll sit. Repeat for other leg.
Hide yarn tails.
JACKET
Use brown yarn for all sections. Leave a few inches of yarn tails for sewing up later. Making a slip stitch at the end of decrease rows makes the slant look smoother. Make sure when you turn you are NOT making the first sc into the sl st of the previous row. "Left front" and "right front" are from the jacket wearer's POV.
Begin base section
Chain 33.
1. (WS) Skip 1 ch, sc 32. Turn. 32 sts.
2-10. Ch 1, sc 32. Turn. 32 sts.
11. Sk 1, sc 30, sl st. Turn. 30 sts.
12. Ch 1, sc 30. Turn.
Begin left front section
13. (WS) Ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 7, make slip st into next st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6, sl st.Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
19. Ch 1, sc 2, sl st.. Turn.
20. Ch 1, sc 1.
Cut yarn and pull tail through loop on hook.
Begin middle upper back section
(WS) Return to 13th row in left front section. Find the 8th sc made. Skip 1 st to left, join new yarn in next st.
13. Ch 1, sc 12, sl st. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 11, sl st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 10, sl st. Turn
16. Ch 1, sc 9, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 8.
Cut yarn and pull tail through loop on hook.
Begin right front section
(WS) Return to 13th row in middle upper back section. Find 12 sc made. Skip 1 st to left, join new yarn in next st.
13. Ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
14. Ch 1. sc 7, sl st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6, sl st. Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
19. Ch 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
20. Ch 1, sc 1.
Cut yarn and pull tail through loop on hook.
JACKET FINISHING
Sew right arm between right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Sew side seam of right front and back. Repeat for left front. ETA: 3/11/09
Flip front edges over to create “lapels.” Sew in place.
Join yarn at top of a lapel. RS facing, sc around shoulder, in front loops of the back section, opposite shoulder, and join to top of opposite lapel.
Optionally, do a row of sc around shoulders and back.
Weave in yarn tails.
HEAD
Work in rounds using cream yarn. This is an egg shaped head, beginning at the narrower end. The narrow end is the “neck.” Doing it this way does make it more tricky to do the embroidery on the face later, but it makes the head look nicer -- the decreases at the top are ugly and completely covered by the hair cap.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc in next st) x 6. 12 st.
3. Sc around.
4. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
5. Sc around.
6. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
7. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
8-14. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds, and stuff before head opening gets too small.
15. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 24 sts.
16. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
17. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
At this point, you may want to jump ahead to the Finishing and embroider the face.
EAR - MAKE 2
In adjustable loop, sc 3. Sew ears on sides of head.
HAIR CAP
You'll be making a hair cap first and then stitching hair strands over it.
Work in rounds using dark brown yarn.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sc.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
5. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6.
6-8. Sc around.
Work in rows.
9. The next 3 rows make up hair that fits over the ears. Sc 22, turn.
10-11. Ch 1, sc 22, turn.
12. Remaining rows make up hair on back of head. Ch 1, sl st in each of first 3 sts, sc 16, turn.
13-18. Ch 1, sc 16.
Position hair cap, pulling side parts above ears and middle part above forehead.
Make sure ears are on either side of head first. Does it fit? If not, change the row counts to adjust.
HAIR TUFT
Read through hair instructions before starting.
1. Cut a yard of hair color yarn and thread yarn needle.
2. Beginning with just the area about the forehead, use satin stitch over Cap surface, creating hair lines. See tutorial referred to at beginning of this pattern. Stop after you’ve done this area.
3. Cut another yard long piece of hair color yarn and thread yarn needle.
4. Bring needle up and down across cap forehead area (see photo as guide), creating loops on the top surface and pulling tight the loops under the cap. It is ok if your top loops are big - they will be trimmed later.
5. Secure the loop stitches underneath the cap by whipstitching them.
6. Cut each top loop so that it looks like 2 strands of hair. Trim hair tuft.
HEAD FINISHING
Position the hair cap, pulling side parts above ears and middle part above forehead. Whipstitch cap to head. Contiinue to use satin stitch to cover the cap surface, starting at the bottom and working upward. Stitch sideburns.
If you haven’t done so already, make a face! Using brown floss, stitch eyes. Using light pink floss, stitch mouth. Using brown floss, stitch eyebrows. This is a bit tricky, since you have to run the floss through the center hold at the bottom of the Head.
Use cream or pale blue yarn to sew head to Torso. Try to use the stitches on the inside neck of the torso, so that it looks the the head is emerging from the shirt.
Hide yarn tails.
NECKTIE
With dark brown yarn, make necktie.
Using foundation crochet, sc 10, hdc, dc.
Alternately, ch 13. Sk 1 ch, sc 9, hdc, dc.
Sew wider end of necktie to neck of torso. Hide yarn tails.
SHIRT COLLAR ETA 3/10/09: After adding the necktie, you can then crochet around the outside neck edge of the shirt in the shirt color yarn to create a "collar". Sl st will do or you can get fancy and do sts of varying heights to get more triangular shapes on either side of the collar. I.e., dc, hdc, sc, sl sts around the back of the neck, sc, hdc, dc -- as you like.
FINISHING
Sew arms (shoulder ends) to torso, jacket wrong side to torso right side. This is to prevent the arm stuffing from coming out.
Overlap the fronts of jacket, left front overlapping right front and sew backstitch to close.
This little guy is inspired by chibi!Ten illustrations by whooligan .
Doctor Who on the forest moon Endor
"What are YOU doing here?" "What are YOU doing here?"
Cross-posted at crafty_tardis , whooligan and weloveamigurumi
10th Doctor Who amigurumi doll
by Snuffykin, October 2007
This is an intermediate-experienced crochet project. The doll is ~ 9 in/23 cm tall. If you'd like to make an overcoat for the Doctor, the pattern is here.
For more detail photos see:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N06/tags/tenthdoctor/
--------------
Materials
worsted weight yarn
linen (shoe color)
brown (suit color)
pale blue (shirt color)
cream (skin color)
dark brown (hair & necktie color)
small amounts of thin yarn or floss: brown (eyes & brows), light pink (mouth)
optional: 2 strand floss or thread for pinstripes
yarn needle
long embroidery needle
crochet hook F
stuffing
optional:
If you'd like to make an overcoat for the Doctor, the pattern is here.
weighting material like poly-pellets for torso
**If you are making Rose also, get a small strong magnet and piece of metal that sticks to it. Place inside hand of each doll, and you can make them appear to hold hands! >:-D
Suggested details you may want to add: little eyeglasses (wire or fuzzy "pipe cleaner"), pinstripes (backstitch with embroidery floss) and “buttons” on jacket, screwdriver (wood peg), glossy beads for eyes.
Gauge
I used so many different stash yarns and the parts are so small it's near impossible to determine gauge. You may have to adapt to what looks best to you.
Techniques
magic adjustable ring
seaming (whipstitch is ok)
basic embroidery stitches (head)
changing yarn colors within a round
Tutorials
For magic ring tutorial
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/
For hair tutorial
http://owly.wordpress.com/2007/08/27/amigurumi-hair-tutorial/
For foundation crochet tutorial (optional for necktie)
http://snuffykin.livejournal.com/43642.html
Official photos from the series (reference for making the hairstyle):
http://www.bbc.co.uk/doctorwho/gallery/doctor10/index.shtml
--------------
Pattern Notes
If you find errors, I'd appreciate you letting me know so I can fix them. Please do not sell this pattern or derivatives of it.
Pattern is divided into 3 sections: Body, Jacket, and Head. Make the Body first, then you can adjust the Coat size as needed. Magic adjustable ring on all parts worked in rounds, except on sleeves. The pattern using American crochet terms. For you folks in the UK or Australia, the instructions are different.
In order to retain the slim shape of the Doctor, the coat sleeves are the actual arms instead of separate arms and sleeves. The torso is the shirt color, and a separate brown coat “vest” is sewn over it.
Body is 4 parts: torso, 2 legs, 2 arms
Coat is 1 piece: coat “vest”
Head is 4 parts: head, ears, hair cap, hair tuft & overstitching.
BODY
TORSO
Work in rounds. With brown yarn:
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
5. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
6 - 8. Sc around.
9. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 24 sts.
With pale blue yarn (shirt color):
10 - 16. Sc around.
Begin to stuff torso before opening gets small. Add weighting material to bottom of torso, if desired.
17. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
18. (Sc into each of the next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
HAND AND ARM - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Arm has sleeve shaping. With cream yarn (skin color):
1. Sc 4.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sc.
3-4. Sc around. Stuff hand and put in small magnet/metal piece, if desired.
5. (Sc2tog) x 4. 4 sc.
With brown (suit color):
6. (2 sc in next st) x 4. 8 sts.
7. (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 2. 10 sts.
8. In back loops, sc around.
9-16. Sc around.
17. Turn, ch 1, sc in each of next 8 sts.
18. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 6 sts.
19. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 4 sts.
20. Turn, sk 1, sc in each of next 2 sts.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
FEET AND LEGS - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Rounds 1-7 are shoe shaping, 8-21 are trousers.
With linen yarn:
1. Sc 5.
2. 2 sc in first st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 9 st.
3. 2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
4. 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 st, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
5. Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. 10 sts.
6. Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog. 9 sts.
7. Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7 sts. 8 sts. Stuff shoe.
With brown yarn:
8. Through front loops only, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) x 4. 12 sts.
9. Through back loops only, sc around. 12 sts
10. Sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog. 10 sts.
11-21. Sc around. 10 sts. 11 rounds total.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
BODY FINISHING
Stuff arms and legs. Set arms aside for attaching to jacket later.
Pinching the open end flat, sew leg slightly toward the front at the bottom of torso. This position makes it easier to make the doll sit. Repeat for other leg.
Hide yarn tails.
JACKET
Use brown yarn for all sections. Leave a few inches of yarn tails for sewing up later. Making a slip stitch at the end of decrease rows makes the slant look smoother. Make sure when you turn you are NOT making the first sc into the sl st of the previous row. "Left front" and "right front" are from the jacket wearer's POV.
Begin base section
Chain 33.
1. (WS) Skip 1 ch, sc 32. Turn. 32 sts.
2-10. Ch 1, sc 32. Turn. 32 sts.
11. Sk 1, sc 30, sl st. Turn. 30 sts.
12. Ch 1, sc 30. Turn.
Begin left front section
13. (WS) Ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 7, make slip st into next st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6, sl st.Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
19. Ch 1, sc 2, sl st.. Turn.
20. Ch 1, sc 1.
Cut yarn and pull tail through loop on hook.
Begin middle upper back section
(WS) Return to 13th row in left front section. Find the 8th sc made. Skip 1 st to left, join new yarn in next st.
13. Ch 1, sc 12, sl st. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 11, sl st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 10, sl st. Turn
16. Ch 1, sc 9, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 8.
Cut yarn and pull tail through loop on hook.
Begin right front section
(WS) Return to 13th row in middle upper back section. Find 12 sc made. Skip 1 st to left, join new yarn in next st.
13. Ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
14. Ch 1. sc 7, sl st. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6, sl st. Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4, sl st. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
19. Ch 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
20. Ch 1, sc 1.
Cut yarn and pull tail through loop on hook.
JACKET FINISHING
Sew right arm between right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Sew side seam of right front and back. Repeat for left front. ETA: 3/11/09
Flip front edges over to create “lapels.” Sew in place.
Join yarn at top of a lapel. RS facing, sc around shoulder, in front loops of the back section, opposite shoulder, and join to top of opposite lapel.
Optionally, do a row of sc around shoulders and back.
Weave in yarn tails.
HEAD
Work in rounds using cream yarn. This is an egg shaped head, beginning at the narrower end. The narrow end is the “neck.” Doing it this way does make it more tricky to do the embroidery on the face later, but it makes the head look nicer -- the decreases at the top are ugly and completely covered by the hair cap.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc in next st) x 6. 12 st.
3. Sc around.
4. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
5. Sc around.
6. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
7. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
8-14. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds, and stuff before head opening gets too small.
15. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 24 sts.
16. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
17. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
At this point, you may want to jump ahead to the Finishing and embroider the face.
EAR - MAKE 2
In adjustable loop, sc 3. Sew ears on sides of head.
HAIR CAP
You'll be making a hair cap first and then stitching hair strands over it.
Work in rounds using dark brown yarn.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sc.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
5. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6.
6-8. Sc around.
Work in rows.
9. The next 3 rows make up hair that fits over the ears. Sc 22, turn.
10-11. Ch 1, sc 22, turn.
12. Remaining rows make up hair on back of head. Ch 1, sl st in each of first 3 sts, sc 16, turn.
13-18. Ch 1, sc 16.
Position hair cap, pulling side parts above ears and middle part above forehead.
Make sure ears are on either side of head first. Does it fit? If not, change the row counts to adjust.
HAIR TUFT
Read through hair instructions before starting.
1. Cut a yard of hair color yarn and thread yarn needle.
2. Beginning with just the area about the forehead, use satin stitch over Cap surface, creating hair lines. See tutorial referred to at beginning of this pattern. Stop after you’ve done this area.
3. Cut another yard long piece of hair color yarn and thread yarn needle.
4. Bring needle up and down across cap forehead area (see photo as guide), creating loops on the top surface and pulling tight the loops under the cap. It is ok if your top loops are big - they will be trimmed later.
5. Secure the loop stitches underneath the cap by whipstitching them.
6. Cut each top loop so that it looks like 2 strands of hair. Trim hair tuft.
HEAD FINISHING
Position the hair cap, pulling side parts above ears and middle part above forehead. Whipstitch cap to head. Contiinue to use satin stitch to cover the cap surface, starting at the bottom and working upward. Stitch sideburns.
If you haven’t done so already, make a face! Using brown floss, stitch eyes. Using light pink floss, stitch mouth. Using brown floss, stitch eyebrows. This is a bit tricky, since you have to run the floss through the center hold at the bottom of the Head.
Use cream or pale blue yarn to sew head to Torso. Try to use the stitches on the inside neck of the torso, so that it looks the the head is emerging from the shirt.
Hide yarn tails.
NECKTIE
With dark brown yarn, make necktie.
Using foundation crochet, sc 10, hdc, dc.
Alternately, ch 13. Sk 1 ch, sc 9, hdc, dc.
Sew wider end of necktie to neck of torso. Hide yarn tails.
SHIRT COLLAR ETA 3/10/09: After adding the necktie, you can then crochet around the outside neck edge of the shirt in the shirt color yarn to create a "collar". Sl st will do or you can get fancy and do sts of varying heights to get more triangular shapes on either side of the collar. I.e., dc, hdc, sc, sl sts around the back of the neck, sc, hdc, dc -- as you like.
FINISHING
Sew arms (shoulder ends) to torso, jacket wrong side to torso right side. This is to prevent the arm stuffing from coming out.
Overlap the fronts of jacket, left front overlapping right front and sew backstitch to close.