Rose Tyler Doll
Rose Tyler is a character in the BBC's television series, new Doctor Who. This doll, crocheted in vaguely amigurumi style, is companion to my Ninth Doctor doll.
Here's chibiRose in her outfit from the season one episode "Bad Wolf." With accesories, she is in her costume from episode "Boomtown."
For more photos, go to my Flickr page here. I hope you enjoy looking at this doll/plushie/softie, and make your own. I would love to see pictures of your completed projects. Here are a couple of screencaps of her in Boomtown: one, two, three. And from Bad Wolf/Parting of Ways: one, two, three.
This is my second designed amigurumi. She is a little shorter than the Doctor, and has thinner legs b/c she is wearing tights. The shaping of the bust and jacket were the most difficult to design. I did about 2 dozen prototypes to get it just right - I was obsessed. In the pictures, she is missing her tiny hoop earrings, eyebrows and braids, which I have to work on later. I was just impatient to get the pics posted. In future, I may post a tutorial on how to do the hair. Another thing you can add is magnets in the hands to make the dolls hold hands. Wouldn't that be cute?
Cross-posted like crazy to time_and_chips ,hearts_in_time, crafty_tardis , who_knits , whooligan weloveamigurumi
Rose Tyler amigurumi doll
Doctor Who, Season One costumes
by Snuffykin, September 2007
This is an intermediate-experienced crochet project, because of the number of parts and techniques; however, the parts are all very small! :) The doll is 9.5” tall.
For my photos, see http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N06/tags/rosetyler/
The main outfit, pink top and black trousers/tights, is inspired by episode “Bad Wolf”.
Optional separates change her into outfit inspired by episode “Boomtown”. These include a scarf, handwarmers, miniskirt, and denim jacket.
--------------
MATERIALS:
worsted weight yarn
-black (shoes, trousers/tights)
-hot pink (top color)
-white (optional undershirt color)
-cream (skin color)
-golden yellow/cornmeal (hair color)
small amounts of thin yarn or floss: blue (eyes), dark brown (brows), light pink (mouth)
yarn needle
long embroidery needle
crochet hook
(I used an F. It might be better with an E but I don't know how the proportions will work out then.)
stuffing
fabric glue, like Fabri-Tac (for hair-- paper glue won't work)
optional:
weighting material like poly-pellets for torso
multicolor yarn for scarf (fuzzy, furry, mohair, hand-dyed)
pale blue yarn for denim skirt and jacket
dark blue yarn for denim jacket
dark red yarn for handwarmers
small jump rings for hoop earrings
**If you are making the Doctor also, get a small strong magnet and piece of metal that sticks to it. Place inside hand of each doll, and you can make them appear to hold hands! >:-D
TECHNIQUES
magic adjustable ring
seaming (whipstitch is ok)
basic embroidery stitches (head)
changing yarn colors within a round
Tutorials
For magic ring tutorial
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/
For foundation single crochet (optional):
I recommend this for starting jacket sleeves and and handwarmers. Here’s my tutorial - http://snuffykin.livejournal.com/43642.html
Photos from official BBC galleries for Rose Tyler and Boomtown:
New look Rose 800px 1024px
Rose examines 800px 1024px
Mickey and Rose 800px 1024px
Rose in danger 800px 1024px
PATTERN NOTES:
I'd appreciate it if you let me know if you find errors.
Please do not sell pattern or product you make from pattern, or derivative works. I spent many days designing it.
The pattern using American crochet terms. For you folks in the UK or Australia, the instructions are different.
Body is 4 parts: torso, 2 legs, 2 arms
Head is 3 parts: head, hair cap, hair strands
Both scarf and mini skirt are single parts, and there are 2 tiny handwarmers.
Jacket is 6 parts: 2 sleeves, back, right and left fronts, lapels
BODY
TORSO
Torso starts off with trousers in black, white undershirt, then pink top. The top has bust shaping and a V-neck that exposes “skin”. Finish torso by adding collar around V-neck.
1. With black yarn, sc 5.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 5. 10 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 5. 15 sts.
4. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 5. 20 sts.
5. (Sc into each next 3 sts, 2 sts into next st) x 5. 25 sts
6. Sc around.
7. Switch to white yarn. Sc around.
8. Switch to pink yarn. Sc around.
9. (Sc into each next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 5. 20 sts. This decrease round gives the doll a waistline.
10. Sc around.
11. (Sc in each next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 5. 25 sts.
Rounds 12-13 are bust shaping.
12. Sc into each of next 8 sts, sc and hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, hdc and sc into next st, sc3tog, sc and hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, hdc and sc into next st, sc into each of next 8 sts. 29 sts.
13. Sc into each of next 8 sts, sc2tog, hdc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, hdc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc into each of next 8 sts. 25 sts.
14. Sc into each of next 12 sts. With white, make one sc. Switching back to pink, sc into each of next 12 sts. 25 sts.
15. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 2, sc. With cream, sc into each of next 2 sts. Switching back to pink, sc2tog, (sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 2. 20 sts.
16. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 2, sc. With cream, sc, sc2tog, sc. Switching back to pink, sc, sc2tog, sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog. 15 sts.
17. Stuff torso. Add weighting material to bottom of torso, if desired. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 2, sc. With cream, sc2tog, sc. Switching back to pink, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog. 10 sts.
FINISHING TORSO
Create outline along v-neck between the white/cream and the pink.
With pink, join yarn at bottom of vee (white st), and work upward to last round of torso as follows.
1. Along left side of V (your left, not the doll’s!), make sl st to left of white st.
2. Go to row above. Sl st to left of cream st.
3. Go to row above. Sc to left of cream st.
4. Go to row above. Dc twice in topmost pink st, to left of cream st. Continuing around collar, hdc in front loops of each of next 6 sts.
Along right side of V, reverse outline shaping while working downward. Dc twice in topmost pink st, sc, sl st, sl st.
Stuff torso. Hide yarn tails.
HAND AND ARM - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using cream yarn (skin color).
1. Sc 4.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sts.
3. Sc around. Stuff hand and put in small magnet/metal piece, if desired.
4. (Sc2tog) x 4. 4 sts.
Switch to pink yarn:
5. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sts.
6-15. Sc for 10 rounds.
Leave a few inches of yarn for sewing later. Stuff arm.
FEET AND LEGS - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using black yarn. Rounds 1-6 are shoe shaping, 7-18 are trousers/tights.
1. Sc 5.
2. 2 sc in first st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 9 st.
3. 2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
4. 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 st, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
5. Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. 10 sts.
6. Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog. 8 sts. Stuff shoe.
7. In front loops only, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc next st) x 2. 10 sts.
8. In back loops only, sc around. 10 sts.
9. (Sc in next 3 sts , sc2tog) x 2. 8 sts.
10-18. Sc around 9 rounds.
Leave a few inches of yarn for sewing later. Stuff leg.
BODY FINISHING
Stuff arms. Pinching the open end flat, sew arm to side of torso. This crease makes the shoulder joint more floppy and moveable. Repeat for other arm.
Stuff legs. Pinching the open end flat, sew leg slightly toward the front at the bottom of torso. This position makes it easier to make the doll sit. Repeat for other leg.
Hide yarn tails.
HEAD
Work in rounds using cream yarn. This is an egg shaped head, beginning at the narrower end. The narrow end is the “neck.”
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc in next st) x 6. 12 st.
3. Sc around.
4. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
5. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
6-11. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds.
12. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
13. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
14. (Sc2tog) x 6. 6 sts.
FACE
Make a face! If you need to, undo the last couple of rounds of the head. Using brown floss, stitch eyes. Using pink floss, stitch mouth. I used 4-strand floss doubled and satin stitch.
Stuff head.
HAIR
You'll be making a hair cap first and then gluing 5” long yarns strands to it. This cap may not fit the head exactly, depending on what yarn you are using, so vary as necessary.
Work in rounds using yellow yarn.
Upper cap:
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
5. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
Lower cap shaping:
6. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog into next st) x 3.
7. Sc in each of next 18 sts, sl st in last st. Turn.
8: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 18 sts. Turn.
8. Sk 1 st, sc in each of next 16 sts, sl st in last st. Turn.
9. Sk 1 st, sc in each of next 14 sts, sl st in last st. Turn.
10. Ch 1, sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 3, sc in next st, sl st in last st.
***If you have jump rings for hoop earrings, you may want to attach them to the head now before attaching the hair cap. They will appear to coming out beneath the hair. Otherwise you could sew or glue them on the hair later. Place the hair cap on to check position of rings.
With yellow yarn, whipstitch cap onto head.
HAIR STRANDS
1. Cut about 30-40 5” long strands of yarn. You can use a flat object like a book to wrap the strands around and cut along the edge, or use a special fringe making tool.
2. Take 10 strands (or whatever looks good), fold them in half. Position the fold point at the rear crown of the head. Glue over the hair cap back, place strands flat over the glue, so that you can see individual strands and not clumped over each other.
3. Take another 10 strands, fold them in the half. Position the center fold point at the middle crown of the head, with half the strands falling on one side of head and half on the other side. Overlap the crease made by the fold in step 2. Glue over the hair cap in this area, a little at a time, placing the strands flat over the glue, as before.
4. Take another 10 strands, fold them in half. Position the center fold point at the front crown of the head. Overlap the edge of the hair cap and make the hair slant downwards over the forehead sides. This will be the hairline. Glue over the hair cap in this area, a little at a time, placing the strands flat over the glue again.
5. If you feel like it, repeat step 2 and put some more hairs in the back of head.
6. Now you’ll be stitching the “part” down the center of her hair. Thread yarn needle with hair color yarn, make a single satin stitch starting from the rear crown to the front crown ending above her forehead.
HEAD FINISHING
When head is cool to touch, the glue is dry. Trim hair ends to a length you like.
Use cream and pink yarn to sew head to Torso. Hide yarn tails.
Glue jump rings -- “hoop earrings”-- to head if desired.
SKIRT
Work in rounds. Use pale blue yarn.
Ch 21 and join into circle.
1. Sc into each chain, not ring. 20 sts.
2. Sc across. 20 sts.
3. (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 5. 25 sts.
4-7. Sc across for 4 rounds total.
Weave in yarn tails.
SCARF
Try using bigger crochet hook or knitting needle for fuzzy, hairy yarns to allow them to fluff up.
Knit pattern
1. Using scarf yarn, CO 3-4 sts and knit 3 rows.
2. On next row, k2tog and knit to end.
3. Knit all rows until scarf is about 13” long.
4. On next row, increase by knitting st through front and back loops. Knit to end.
5. Knit 3 rows and BO.
Crochet pattern
Worked in rows.
1. Make a chain about 13-14” long.
2. Sk 1, sc across. Turn.
3-4. Ch 1, sc across. Turn.
HANDWARMERS - MAKE 2
Tube worked in rounds.
Use foundation single crochet. This is much more elastic than chaining the foundation; otherwise you’ll find it difficult to pull the handwarmer on and off.
With red yarn:
1. Foundation single crochet 8 sts and join as ring.
2-3. Sc in each of next 8 sts.
Weave in yarn tails.
JACKET
Use dark blue yarn for all parts, except for portion of sleeves in pale blue. Work in rows except for beginning of Sleeves. Fronts are essentially identical; the RS shows a line of loops in the second row. Allow your yarn tails to be a few inches to use for sewing up later.
BACK
Chain 16.
1. Skip 1 ch, 15 sc. Turn.
2. (RS) Ch 1, in back loops only 15 sc. Turn.
3-6. Ch 1, sc 15. Turn.
7. Ch 1, sc 14. Trn
8. Sk 1, sc 12. Turn.
9. Sk 1, sc 10. Turn.
10. Sk 1, sc 8.
RIGHT FRONT
Slip sts on fronts make a more even slant. Chain 10.
1. Skip 1 ch, sc 9. Turn.
2. (RS) Ch 1, in BACK LOOPS sc 9. Turn.
3-6. Ch 1, sc 9. Turn.
7. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
8. Sk 1, sc 7, sl st. Turn.
9. Sk 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
10. Sk 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
11. Sk 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
12-13. Ch 1, sc 1.
LEFT FRONT
Chain 10.
1. Skip 1 ch, sc 9. Turn.
2. (WS) Ch 1, in FRONT LOOPS sc 9. Turn.
3-6. Ch 1, sc 9. Turn.
7. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
8. Sk 1, sc 7, sl st. Turn.
9. Sk 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
10. Sk 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
11. Sk 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
12-13. Ch 1, sc 1.
SLEEVE - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Do not use magic adjustable ring here. Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
Using pale blue yarn, ch 10 and join into ring.
1. Sc 12 sts into ring.
2. Sc 12 around.
Switch to using dark blue yarn for rest of sleeve.
3. Sc 12 into back loops only.
4-9. Sc around
Steps 10-14 are worked in rows.
10. Turn, sc 10.
11. Turn, sk 1, sc 8.
12. Turn, sk 1, sc 6.
13. Turn, sk 1, sc 4.
14. Turn, sk 1, sc 2.
JACKET FINISHING----
RS of all flat pieces have line on 2nd row.
Sew shoulder seam of right front to back. Repeat for left front.
Sew right sleeve between right front and back. Extra long bit of fronts curves over shoulder area. Repeat for left front.
Sew side seam of right front and back. Repeat for left front.
If desired, slip stitch starting bottom edge of left front, along the collar, and down the right front edge.
Weave in yarn tails.
Here's chibiRose in her outfit from the season one episode "Bad Wolf." With accesories, she is in her costume from episode "Boomtown."
For more photos, go to my Flickr page here. I hope you enjoy looking at this doll/plushie/softie, and make your own. I would love to see pictures of your completed projects. Here are a couple of screencaps of her in Boomtown: one, two, three. And from Bad Wolf/Parting of Ways: one, two, three.
This is my second designed amigurumi. She is a little shorter than the Doctor, and has thinner legs b/c she is wearing tights. The shaping of the bust and jacket were the most difficult to design. I did about 2 dozen prototypes to get it just right - I was obsessed. In the pictures, she is missing her tiny hoop earrings, eyebrows and braids, which I have to work on later. I was just impatient to get the pics posted. In future, I may post a tutorial on how to do the hair. Another thing you can add is magnets in the hands to make the dolls hold hands. Wouldn't that be cute?
Cross-posted like crazy to time_and_chips ,hearts_in_time, crafty_tardis , who_knits , whooligan weloveamigurumi
Rose Tyler amigurumi doll
Doctor Who, Season One costumes
by Snuffykin, September 2007
This is an intermediate-experienced crochet project, because of the number of parts and techniques; however, the parts are all very small! :) The doll is 9.5” tall.
For my photos, see http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N06/tags/rosetyler/
The main outfit, pink top and black trousers/tights, is inspired by episode “Bad Wolf”.
Optional separates change her into outfit inspired by episode “Boomtown”. These include a scarf, handwarmers, miniskirt, and denim jacket.
--------------
MATERIALS:
worsted weight yarn
-black (shoes, trousers/tights)
-hot pink (top color)
-white (optional undershirt color)
-cream (skin color)
-golden yellow/cornmeal (hair color)
small amounts of thin yarn or floss: blue (eyes), dark brown (brows), light pink (mouth)
yarn needle
long embroidery needle
crochet hook
(I used an F. It might be better with an E but I don't know how the proportions will work out then.)
stuffing
fabric glue, like Fabri-Tac (for hair-- paper glue won't work)
optional:
weighting material like poly-pellets for torso
multicolor yarn for scarf (fuzzy, furry, mohair, hand-dyed)
pale blue yarn for denim skirt and jacket
dark blue yarn for denim jacket
dark red yarn for handwarmers
small jump rings for hoop earrings
**If you are making the Doctor also, get a small strong magnet and piece of metal that sticks to it. Place inside hand of each doll, and you can make them appear to hold hands! >:-D
TECHNIQUES
magic adjustable ring
seaming (whipstitch is ok)
basic embroidery stitches (head)
changing yarn colors within a round
Tutorials
For magic ring tutorial
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/
For foundation single crochet (optional):
I recommend this for starting jacket sleeves and and handwarmers. Here’s my tutorial - http://snuffykin.livejournal.com/43642.html
Photos from official BBC galleries for Rose Tyler and Boomtown:
New look Rose 800px 1024px
Rose examines 800px 1024px
Mickey and Rose 800px 1024px
Rose in danger 800px 1024px
PATTERN NOTES:
I'd appreciate it if you let me know if you find errors.
Please do not sell pattern or product you make from pattern, or derivative works. I spent many days designing it.
The pattern using American crochet terms. For you folks in the UK or Australia, the instructions are different.
Body is 4 parts: torso, 2 legs, 2 arms
Head is 3 parts: head, hair cap, hair strands
Both scarf and mini skirt are single parts, and there are 2 tiny handwarmers.
Jacket is 6 parts: 2 sleeves, back, right and left fronts, lapels
BODY
TORSO
Torso starts off with trousers in black, white undershirt, then pink top. The top has bust shaping and a V-neck that exposes “skin”. Finish torso by adding collar around V-neck.
1. With black yarn, sc 5.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 5. 10 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 5. 15 sts.
4. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 5. 20 sts.
5. (Sc into each next 3 sts, 2 sts into next st) x 5. 25 sts
6. Sc around.
7. Switch to white yarn. Sc around.
8. Switch to pink yarn. Sc around.
9. (Sc into each next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 5. 20 sts. This decrease round gives the doll a waistline.
10. Sc around.
11. (Sc in each next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 5. 25 sts.
Rounds 12-13 are bust shaping.
12. Sc into each of next 8 sts, sc and hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, hdc and sc into next st, sc3tog, sc and hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, hdc and sc into next st, sc into each of next 8 sts. 29 sts.
13. Sc into each of next 8 sts, sc2tog, hdc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, hdc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc into each of next 8 sts. 25 sts.
14. Sc into each of next 12 sts. With white, make one sc. Switching back to pink, sc into each of next 12 sts. 25 sts.
15. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 2, sc. With cream, sc into each of next 2 sts. Switching back to pink, sc2tog, (sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 2. 20 sts.
16. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 2, sc. With cream, sc, sc2tog, sc. Switching back to pink, sc, sc2tog, sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog. 15 sts.
17. Stuff torso. Add weighting material to bottom of torso, if desired. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 2, sc. With cream, sc2tog, sc. Switching back to pink, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog. 10 sts.
FINISHING TORSO
Create outline along v-neck between the white/cream and the pink.
With pink, join yarn at bottom of vee (white st), and work upward to last round of torso as follows.
1. Along left side of V (your left, not the doll’s!), make sl st to left of white st.
2. Go to row above. Sl st to left of cream st.
3. Go to row above. Sc to left of cream st.
4. Go to row above. Dc twice in topmost pink st, to left of cream st. Continuing around collar, hdc in front loops of each of next 6 sts.
Along right side of V, reverse outline shaping while working downward. Dc twice in topmost pink st, sc, sl st, sl st.
Stuff torso. Hide yarn tails.
HAND AND ARM - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using cream yarn (skin color).
1. Sc 4.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sts.
3. Sc around. Stuff hand and put in small magnet/metal piece, if desired.
4. (Sc2tog) x 4. 4 sts.
Switch to pink yarn:
5. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sts.
6-15. Sc for 10 rounds.
Leave a few inches of yarn for sewing later. Stuff arm.
FEET AND LEGS - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using black yarn. Rounds 1-6 are shoe shaping, 7-18 are trousers/tights.
1. Sc 5.
2. 2 sc in first st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 9 st.
3. 2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
4. 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 st, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
5. Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. 10 sts.
6. Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog. 8 sts. Stuff shoe.
7. In front loops only, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc next st) x 2. 10 sts.
8. In back loops only, sc around. 10 sts.
9. (Sc in next 3 sts , sc2tog) x 2. 8 sts.
10-18. Sc around 9 rounds.
Leave a few inches of yarn for sewing later. Stuff leg.
BODY FINISHING
Stuff arms. Pinching the open end flat, sew arm to side of torso. This crease makes the shoulder joint more floppy and moveable. Repeat for other arm.
Stuff legs. Pinching the open end flat, sew leg slightly toward the front at the bottom of torso. This position makes it easier to make the doll sit. Repeat for other leg.
Hide yarn tails.
HEAD
Work in rounds using cream yarn. This is an egg shaped head, beginning at the narrower end. The narrow end is the “neck.”
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc in next st) x 6. 12 st.
3. Sc around.
4. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
5. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
6-11. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds.
12. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
13. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
14. (Sc2tog) x 6. 6 sts.
FACE
Make a face! If you need to, undo the last couple of rounds of the head. Using brown floss, stitch eyes. Using pink floss, stitch mouth. I used 4-strand floss doubled and satin stitch.
Stuff head.
HAIR
You'll be making a hair cap first and then gluing 5” long yarns strands to it. This cap may not fit the head exactly, depending on what yarn you are using, so vary as necessary.
Work in rounds using yellow yarn.
Upper cap:
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
5. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
Lower cap shaping:
6. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog into next st) x 3.
7. Sc in each of next 18 sts, sl st in last st. Turn.
8: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 18 sts. Turn.
8. Sk 1 st, sc in each of next 16 sts, sl st in last st. Turn.
9. Sk 1 st, sc in each of next 14 sts, sl st in last st. Turn.
10. Ch 1, sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 3, sc in next st, sl st in last st.
***If you have jump rings for hoop earrings, you may want to attach them to the head now before attaching the hair cap. They will appear to coming out beneath the hair. Otherwise you could sew or glue them on the hair later. Place the hair cap on to check position of rings.
With yellow yarn, whipstitch cap onto head.
HAIR STRANDS
1. Cut about 30-40 5” long strands of yarn. You can use a flat object like a book to wrap the strands around and cut along the edge, or use a special fringe making tool.
2. Take 10 strands (or whatever looks good), fold them in half. Position the fold point at the rear crown of the head. Glue over the hair cap back, place strands flat over the glue, so that you can see individual strands and not clumped over each other.
3. Take another 10 strands, fold them in the half. Position the center fold point at the middle crown of the head, with half the strands falling on one side of head and half on the other side. Overlap the crease made by the fold in step 2. Glue over the hair cap in this area, a little at a time, placing the strands flat over the glue, as before.
4. Take another 10 strands, fold them in half. Position the center fold point at the front crown of the head. Overlap the edge of the hair cap and make the hair slant downwards over the forehead sides. This will be the hairline. Glue over the hair cap in this area, a little at a time, placing the strands flat over the glue again.
5. If you feel like it, repeat step 2 and put some more hairs in the back of head.
6. Now you’ll be stitching the “part” down the center of her hair. Thread yarn needle with hair color yarn, make a single satin stitch starting from the rear crown to the front crown ending above her forehead.
HEAD FINISHING
When head is cool to touch, the glue is dry. Trim hair ends to a length you like.
Use cream and pink yarn to sew head to Torso. Hide yarn tails.
Glue jump rings -- “hoop earrings”-- to head if desired.
SKIRT
Work in rounds. Use pale blue yarn.
Ch 21 and join into circle.
1. Sc into each chain, not ring. 20 sts.
2. Sc across. 20 sts.
3. (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 5. 25 sts.
4-7. Sc across for 4 rounds total.
Weave in yarn tails.
SCARF
Try using bigger crochet hook or knitting needle for fuzzy, hairy yarns to allow them to fluff up.
Knit pattern
1. Using scarf yarn, CO 3-4 sts and knit 3 rows.
2. On next row, k2tog and knit to end.
3. Knit all rows until scarf is about 13” long.
4. On next row, increase by knitting st through front and back loops. Knit to end.
5. Knit 3 rows and BO.
Crochet pattern
Worked in rows.
1. Make a chain about 13-14” long.
2. Sk 1, sc across. Turn.
3-4. Ch 1, sc across. Turn.
HANDWARMERS - MAKE 2
Tube worked in rounds.
Use foundation single crochet. This is much more elastic than chaining the foundation; otherwise you’ll find it difficult to pull the handwarmer on and off.
With red yarn:
1. Foundation single crochet 8 sts and join as ring.
2-3. Sc in each of next 8 sts.
Weave in yarn tails.
JACKET
Use dark blue yarn for all parts, except for portion of sleeves in pale blue. Work in rows except for beginning of Sleeves. Fronts are essentially identical; the RS shows a line of loops in the second row. Allow your yarn tails to be a few inches to use for sewing up later.
BACK
Chain 16.
1. Skip 1 ch, 15 sc. Turn.
2. (RS) Ch 1, in back loops only 15 sc. Turn.
3-6. Ch 1, sc 15. Turn.
7. Ch 1, sc 14. Trn
8. Sk 1, sc 12. Turn.
9. Sk 1, sc 10. Turn.
10. Sk 1, sc 8.
RIGHT FRONT
Slip sts on fronts make a more even slant. Chain 10.
1. Skip 1 ch, sc 9. Turn.
2. (RS) Ch 1, in BACK LOOPS sc 9. Turn.
3-6. Ch 1, sc 9. Turn.
7. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
8. Sk 1, sc 7, sl st. Turn.
9. Sk 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
10. Sk 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
11. Sk 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
12-13. Ch 1, sc 1.
LEFT FRONT
Chain 10.
1. Skip 1 ch, sc 9. Turn.
2. (WS) Ch 1, in FRONT LOOPS sc 9. Turn.
3-6. Ch 1, sc 9. Turn.
7. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
8. Sk 1, sc 7, sl st. Turn.
9. Sk 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
10. Sk 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
11. Sk 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
12-13. Ch 1, sc 1.
SLEEVE - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Do not use magic adjustable ring here. Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
Using pale blue yarn, ch 10 and join into ring.
1. Sc 12 sts into ring.
2. Sc 12 around.
Switch to using dark blue yarn for rest of sleeve.
3. Sc 12 into back loops only.
4-9. Sc around
Steps 10-14 are worked in rows.
10. Turn, sc 10.
11. Turn, sk 1, sc 8.
12. Turn, sk 1, sc 6.
13. Turn, sk 1, sc 4.
14. Turn, sk 1, sc 2.
JACKET FINISHING----
RS of all flat pieces have line on 2nd row.
Sew shoulder seam of right front to back. Repeat for left front.
Sew right sleeve between right front and back. Extra long bit of fronts curves over shoulder area. Repeat for left front.
Sew side seam of right front and back. Repeat for left front.
If desired, slip stitch starting bottom edge of left front, along the collar, and down the right front edge.
Weave in yarn tails.