Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Overbust

[sidneyeileen]

On my web site I have published a two-part demo/tutorial on how to make a Victorian overbust style corset with quilted gores. It's the same information as in series of my journals here last winter, and I compiled it into a formal 2-part article a couple weeks ago. I was originally waiting to publish until after this material was published at

Comments

[necra_kitty]

Hey,

I am about to make up this corset using the pattern from Jill Salens book, resized using the Foundations Revealed masterclass. Due to the date the original was make I am pretty sure it is a midbust, but I was wondering if you could confirm that it is a midbust before I make any alterations to the pattern.
Lovely work by the way, it was really inspirational to read through your walkthrough, it has made the challenge a lot less daunting.

[sidneyeileen]

I'm not sure exactly which pattern you are using, because I actually mashed up a couple of them from that book, plus drew on other online examples and prior corsets of my own when drafting this particular corset.

That said, if the bust is shaped approximately like this one, then yes, it is just barely above mid-bust. The Jill Salen pattern I resized for someone else ( http://sidneyeileen.livejournal.com/20542.html ) and was one of the primary inspirations for my creation is definitely a mid-bust. The reason the part of the panel reaching up to the center of the bust is so much longer, is that it must travel around the curve of the bust. That means it must be longer (approx 1/2" per cup size) to travel the same distance vertically.

[necra_kitty]

oooh yeah, I remember reading your entry about that. It was very interesting :)
I'm making up the khaki corded corset on pg 62-65, but using that famous black and yellow one and a couple of others to help me out as reference, as well. Your guide will doubtlessly proove beyond value to me with this one!
Do you mind me asking why it is you used two layers of coutil with this one, instead of a different interlining, or is this standard in your work?

[sidneyeileen]

My standard is two layers of coutil. I make every corset on the assumption that it will be worn all the time and need to last for years, so they are all tightlacing quality. Plus, the two layers allows me to sew integral boning channels anywhere on the corset I want, rather than applying boning channels to the outside or inside of the corset. It does make for a slightly heavier corset than a single-layer coutil, but I think it's worth the trade-off. If weight is a huge concern, I recommend something that is going to make a huge difference, like mesh.