I'm seeing the header and background images, so I don't know what's wrong there. It looks like part of the Butterflies theme is still active because you can see it in the lower part of the header. Since you're using a custom external stylesheet, I'd recommend going to Customize Journal Display and selecting "(None)" as the theme in the drop-down. That way you'll remove a lot of the cluttering CSS information and it'll be easier to change what you want.
This should do it... In your external CSS file, there's a section marked "Widget Styling" that has these lines: .archive-widget ul.widget-list .item, .widget a { color: #dddddd; } which are overriding a line earlier in the file. Delete these two and it'll make all the sidebar links darker.
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.archive-widget ul.widget-list .item,
.widget a { color: #dddddd; }
which are overriding a line earlier in the file. Delete these two and it'll make all the sidebar links darker.
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