Have you seen the documentary Riding Giants? I know little about surfing but even I enjoyed it. It was directed by Stacy Peralta, a former skater and surfer who previously did Dogtown and Z Boys. At the end of Riding Giants, there is some footage of Laird Hamilton going after one of those big waves in the middle of the ocean. That is some crazy shit right there.
Yes, I did see that piece of craziness. But forgot that Stacy Peralta directed it. // And yes, seeing Riding Giants before reading this was probably good, I had some idea of the scale of what the book was about from watching the film.
I'm downloading this book from Kindle as I type. Sounds RIGHT up my alley. You might also enjoy "Blind Descent" by James Tabor, one of the better books I've read recently (on my Kindle) of the "Man vs Nature That Is Going To Kill Him" variety. (Plus, some of the Huautla Cave stuff is just screaming to be dungeonized . . . )
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