Day Trip to Peterhof and Kronstadt - Russia
I've noticed in recent posts by other bloggers that Russia is finally entering spring. Snow is quickly melting, being replaced by water puddles. I've already written that I love freezing temperatures and snow, so Russian winter was a highlight of the trip for me. The beauty and serenity of clean snow was most vividly experienced during a day trip to Peterhof. Admission was free and the grounds were mostly deserted. There's something peaceful about wandering these grounds in the absence of huge tourists crowds. The temperature was very cold on the day we visited and snow continually fell, adding to the winter wonderland atmosphere.
1. Quick background for American friends and family. Peterhof is a series of palaces, gardens and majestic fountains created during Peter the Great's reign. It was ravaged by German troops during World War II, but military engineers and thousands of volunteers restored most of Peterhof's main structures by 1947.
Peterhof is often called the "Russian Versailles." I've visited both but cannot really make a comparison because the Grand Palace and other parts of Peterhof were closed off during winter. In fact, the Grand Palace was entirely covered by a tarp and it's my understanding major renovations are taking place. We entered Peterhof at the Upper Gardens by the Neptune Fountain, which was constructed in Germany in the 17th Century. During the war, occupying troops dismantled the composition and removed the fountain to Germany. However, it was later recovered and reinstalled in Peterhof. In winter there's absolutely no activity with the fountain. It's simply sitting there covered in snow.
2. It's immediately clear that the grounds are immaculately maintained. All trees perfectly aligned and manicured, even when they are bare.
3. One of the cathedrals on the grounds but it was closed.
4. Stunning landscapes of snow and ice-covered trees and branches.
5. All paths completely clear, even though it seemed we were the only ones walking them.
6. I'm not sure why some trees are wrapped for protection during winter and others aren't? Does anyone know?
7. My favorite view is here by the bridge.
8. Peterhof also is memorable because it's the first time I saw a massive body of water completely frozen. We were simply walking along a path and Sasha asked "guess what this is?" Well, it looked like a field of snow to me but I knew there must be another answer. I initially guessed it was a snow covered flower garden. Then I said "water?" Yes! It's the Gulf of Finland. I know it's common place for Russians to see bodies of water completely frozen and covered in snow, but to a foreigner this is amazingly cool. To walk out on a frozen body of water is really thrilling - at least to me! :)
9. On the way back to the city we made a quick stop in Kronstadt, a municipal town and one of St. Petersburg's main sea ports. During World War II it was the base of the Baltic Fleet and primary training center for the Soviet Navy. We saw lots of young men in naval uniforms during our visit. So handsome but I didn't have my camera ready to snap a photo. If I recall, there's still a Naval Academy/University of some sorts in the town.
10. Kronstadt was founded in the early 1700's by guess who? Peter the Great! There's a nice monument in his honor in the town square.
11. Very grey, snowy and foggy day when we visited. But here's another view of the frozen Gulf of Finland. See the footsteps? I'm not the only one walking on these frozen waterways. I remember in Hare Island tons of couples and families doing the same on the Neva River.
12. Some docked ships in the fog.
13. Like Peterhof, Kronstadt was mostly deserted but a few other tourists. I'm not sure from which country.
14. Away from the water sits the beautiful Naval Cathedral. Stunning colors! The Cathedral was constructed from 1903 - 1913 and served as the main church of the Baltic Fleet. It is dedicated to all fallen seamen. Soviets closed the Cathedral in 1929 and it was used for several decades as government offices and later as a museum. However, in 2009 a board of trustees was established to restore the Cathedral and former President Medvedev and his wife attended a formal consecration and reopening in April 2012.
I'm not sure if Kronstadt is a common tourist destination, but I enjoyed the brief tour. And if I visit St. Petersburg in summer I'll be sure to visit Peterhof again. Though I'm certain there are massive crowds during this time.
Next week I'll write about Novgorod and an ethnic Ukrainian neighborhood in Chicago. Here in DC spring time is in full force. This week we have temperatures around 30 Celsius. Everyone happy about the change in temperatures, but I'm constantly longing for cold.