/me googles about them -- that looks perfect. Does the pilot hole actually need to be drilled with a hammer drill, or can I get away with an ordinary power drill? I assume the carbide bit is non-negotiable.
You can probably get away with a strong drill (not your standard-issue rechargeable, but a strong rechargeable or a corded drill).
Alternately, in some situations, it's easier to drill into the ceiling above, find something substantial to screw into, and mount rubber stoppers on the back of the pegboard so it doesn't swing around much.
Mostly it'll be for hand tools, though I'm going to see if I can get some plastic bins to keep electronic components organised. Self-tapping concrete screws sound like a total win.
That's what the theater set shop I worked in would do, but then, they just like the big masculine tools and grinding red dust, all dramatic like "we're getting shit done here."
But it does work. Not too hard either, and I fancy you have quite the ability for this sort of thing.
I might go that route if we were planning to be here for a long time, but we're probably going to be looking for a bigger place within a year. I'll keep this in mind, though, thanks!
I would recommend standing the board off from the wall on wood furring strips at least 1/2" thick. Attach the wood strips to the wall top and bottom using the self-tapping anchors or drilled in expansion anchors, then attach the pegboard to the wood strips using regular wood screws.
The slight offset from the wall will allow you to use various pegboard hooks without interference from the wall behind, and a gap for air circulation is never a bad idea anyway when placing wood products against brick or concrete.
Oh, good call, especially since this will be going in a somewhat damp cellar. Thanks! It'll make recovering the pegboard when we move much easier, too, and I have a near-infinite source of scrap wood available.
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Alternately, in some situations, it's easier to drill into the ceiling above, find something substantial to screw into, and mount rubber stoppers on the back of the pegboard so it doesn't swing around much.
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That's what the theater set shop I worked in would do, but then, they just like the big masculine tools and grinding red dust, all dramatic like "we're getting shit done here."
But it does work. Not too hard either, and I fancy you have quite the ability for this sort of thing.
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The slight offset from the wall will allow you to use various pegboard hooks without interference from the wall behind, and a gap for air circulation is never a bad idea anyway when placing wood products against brick or concrete.
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