Some sewing, and researching kirtles, boning, and more.

[kimikosews]

I am sewing again, if slowly. It is the wool short gown (which is a mockup gown for a future silk one). I got the pieces cut out in wool, in the golden yellow cotton lining, and even in cotton muslin for the unseen portions of the skirts last week (it has been ages since I used muslin for anything, but it was in the stash, hence free and will be

Comments

[unclrashid]

Fascinating! I look forward to hearing more as your research progresses. I'm thinking that they must have held on to the technique of making fitted kirtles supporting the bust and therefore stiffening was only needed for the line of the bodices, not as much as would be needed to support the bust, also.

How do you think the bents in the sleeves were used? I'm wondering if that refers to the "ring" I saw in a drawing or painting holding up sleeves on the french dresses that have no shoulder straps? It looked like there was ribbon or tape connected to it and tied in the center front to sort of "cantilever" the sleeve heads.

[kimikosews]

I am wondering the same. Hard to say how well the garments are being fitted when most of the women in the portraits are slender to begin with. I do know that in the Tudor period in general, having minimal cleavage showing is the preferred look.

In the one kirtle I do have that is unboned, and only has a layer of drill behind the linen, my bust line is lower, but not saggy. I also didn't do any sort of GFD type shaping to try to enhance anything. This is something I will need to play around with, hopefully before my class.

[unclrashid]

Not that you asked for advice, but they may not have done anything more than nip it in slightly below the bust and leave a bit more ease above that point. I don't recall if your effigy stays have the tiny angle in the center front seam, but that's really all it takes.

[kimikosews]

That's true. And I have added in that angle into my bodices when I can.

[ravenessdotcom]

Fascinating! This is going to be circling in my brain for some days I think.

[kimikosews]

It has been circling mine for a few days, and still is simmering in the back.

[hsifeng]

Hey there! Look at the timing on this research; just as I am getting ready to make my 1570's kirtle for MAAS! *grin*

I am going to be sewing this weekend; hubby heads to work 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM on Saturday. I will be home from yoga after noon. Wanna come over and S-n-B?

[kimikosews]

I can do that for a few hours. We have game night that night so I'd need to leave around 4 or 5 since it is our night to cook, depending on what Rob wants us to make.

And would you be able to fit me into a new bodice? I think with what I'm learning, I need to have a GFD type bodice as an example piece. It doesn't have to be this Saturday but sometime in September.

[hsifeng]

OK - so do we want to make it 1:00 - 4:00 PM? I think we can get a lot done in three hours if we concentrate.

I will work on getting the sewing room cleared out (from CoCo...still) before you head over.

I can help with bodice fitting whenever in the next three weekends. I have MAAS stuff to make and need a hand with a basic petticoat cut-up (the hand being, help me make a petticoat with only about 2 yards of wool) and input/advise on my kirtle. I have the duct-tape pattern for it (thanks to Rebecca!) but I need to chat with you about possible stiffeners and closure options.

:)

[kimikosews]

Found out we are not cooking this weekend, so I can stay a little later if you want, to 5.

And did you want a petticoat with full bodies, straps only bodies (like in TT book), or skirt only?

Can talk more on Saturday.

[toothlesshag]

I am enjoying the details!

My kirtle came out kinda stiff. I think I put canvas in the interlining.

[kimikosews]

Good to know. Thanks.