Kate's Adirondacks Adventure
Maybe it's just that I went to Secret Science Club on Weds, which always reminds me of Pleasure Salon, if the latter were about science and had a speaker, (The talk, incidentally, was excellent: the perfect level of science detail for the educated layperson. e.g. the dude explained what transposons are, but not how DNA works. And apparently the drink of the night is always a fruity-punchy thing. Hurrah! I loved it so much, I immediately went home and gave money to their Kickstarter.), but the journey to Adirondack Rock & River reminded me of going to Camp. I totally got out of work late bc while I had nothing to do at 5pm, I had a PT appt at 6 and then some work magically found its way to my desk while I was out grr. Caught the last bus (for a while) to New Paltz, where my long-suffering climbing mentor picked me up. It started raining, for which I would've had a fit if I were him, but he is more patient than I. He was shocked that I wanted to eat 8 BK sliders, even between the two of us, but that was dinner. We got to Rock & River by about 1, where the party was going full blast. In what would become a trend for the weekend, we were the last to arrive, to much rejoicing.
I felt less bad about my extremely late arrival bc we spent Fri morning hanging around the breakfast room at R&R while GMac took a conference call. Then we climbed Chapel Pond Slab, one of the bestest slabs in the whole of the Adirondacks. Slab climbing is the opposite of overhanging: it's all about high friction on the rock, placing your weight, and footwork. We don't have any in the Gunks, so it was a real treat. GMac made it a 5 pitch climb and watching two other parties around us made me appreciate him all the more. He uses the best gear and clearly knows what he is doing, unlike the party that started ahead of us. A group of 4, possibly a mom in the lead with two kids and an older guy, came up behind us - without using any protection for the first 400' of the climb. Yes, it was only 5.3, 5.4 climbing but on the other hand, shit yo. Also, if you think the first 400' isn't worth roping up, why the heck would you want to lead the next pitch??
GMac and I did what is known as the cave finish. If you do it right, allegedly it's a 5.7 *****, but GMac had some pieces I had to clean tucked in some awkward spots. I managed to get one of his nuts stuck as a chock - fortunately, the climbers behind us retrieved it so he didn't have to downclimb to it. I failed to pass him either of his cordelettes on that pitch though, so he had to set the anchor with a bunch of slings. I maintain that 1 of the 4 pieces he set must not have been attached to the rope, bc somehow one of the anchor points went flying down the hill, freaking out the party behind us. *sighs* Of course it was a cam too, but at least it was one of his old ones. (I replaced it when we got back to town as per club policy. I was so fumble fingered all day though, GMac teased that his car is getting old, maybe he should let me drive more.) I'm afraid I never got my head back on for the rest of the day, but at least the walk off only took us 40mins, including going hand over hand down two fixed lines.
We still had time for a little more climbing, so we drove over to Shipton's Arete, which was on the back side of Chapel Pond. We had to walk along the beach, but there were several water "crossings" to get to the far side. There were logs, but AISOT, I had a nimbleness fail and landed on my ass in 1' muddy water when one of the logs rolled. *sighs* Gary lead Shipton's Voyage (5.4 ***) and cheered me up by asking me to guess which of the pieces was his favorite. (It was the pink tricam set in a vertical crack: I still have no idea how he did that and wish I'd paid more attention.) We also climbed China Grove (5.5) by moving the rope and I cleaned the anchor at the end. Did I mention my head wasn't on? I forgot to bring a belay device to rappel, so Gary had to tie one to the end of the rope and I had to haul it up. Good thing it was only 100'.
We stopped for Maker's Mark at the Ausable Inn. The bartender was funny and said it would be okay for me to drink mine on the rocks bc I'm a lady. Teehee. GMac teased me on the way out that the Marcy airfield was the perfect place to learn to drive, but then on our way back to the lodge, he turned in to the field. He said that being relaxed would help my first lesson in how to drive stick. I drove around the field several times and feel like I have a little feel for it and a vague idea of how it's supposed to work, but he's hella better at explaining top rope anchors than driving. I only stalled once, but really, I think I'll stick to airfields and empty parking lots for now.
RobO had organized catering for dinner and hanging out with 15 other climbers was fun. I had Stag's Leap with dinner and then I had Madeira on the porch. I've fallen in love with the Climber's Lodge at Rock & River. There's a geometric patterned staircase to the loft, but the centerpiece is a vast fireplace with a magnificent stone chimney. What a clever idea to build a chimney from stone - and leave enough space in the mortar for small fingers and cams! They even have top ropes permanently attached to anchors at the top, in case you didn't think they were serious. I climbed 3 routes in the back: I still don't have the cojones to try climbing the front while there's a fire in it. (And, the front doesn't really have handholds built in, though that didn't stop RobO or PYF from trying. They should know better at their age!)
Despite a late bedtime and a not late enough start, Sat was an awesome day of climbing. Basically everybody went to the Creature Wall and set top ropes. By the time GMac and I got there, all but one was set. I warmed up on Fire Starter (5.5), although I belayed several people up Gob Hoblin (5.7) first. GMac made it up, but I watched several other people fail. When it was my turn, I nimbly made it up. I'm finally starting to believe in short people climbs, bc there were places where my small feet were able to get more purchase on a teensy nub. Even on Fri, I'd felt like it was miraculous how my feet stuck to the wall: I'd smear and it would hold! Granite rocks. I was sore - GMac claims it was clinging for dear life on the cave pitch of Chapel Pond slab lest I fall awkwardly, I claim it was the chimney climbing - but was talked into climbing Black Moriah (5.8). It was a very slopey crack and I had to do a lot of foot jamming. The Gunks are easier to lead bc the cracks are horizontal - slap a cam in and you're done - but upstate (and NH) are far more interesting to me bc the cracks are vertical, so you can jam a hand or fist and hang from it. Which also feels pretty darn miraculous, if you ask me. Black Moriah was a little challenging - I fell a few times - but very satisfying. I felt acrobatic as I mantled and cammed.
One person already left at that point to beat Irene home, but GMac suggested we go to Owl's Head. On the way, we stopped at Pitch Off (sp?) so he could show me climbs there. I will never be as dedicated a climber as he: if he'd gotten Thurs off, he was going to go to the Gunks to practice top ropes and self-rescue techniques; he pulled over at midnight to show me climbs on the way up (hint: you can't see much in the dark). Anyhow, Owl's Head turned out to be a nice wall with an easy approach - with a bunch of 5.6 climbs. He demonstrated once more how to set up a top rope, which stuck much better this time. We climbed Wind Song, Central AC, and Hooters (all 5.6). Then he topped out and did something while I racked up.
Despite how well I'd climbed that morning, I wasn't ready to lead a 5.6, so he put me on an unmarked 5.3 G on the arete. (He claims there might be a 5.6 move somewhere in there.) At times, I felt too casual about the lead, like maybe I was being too acrobatic when the cost of falling was so very high, but I did enjoy the puzzle of placing pieces. I tried to only use only my pieces, to reflect what I might do when he and his gear aren't around, but I think I used the extra green cam he put on my harness. I also had one point when I really wanted a green cam and didn't have one, so I spent 15mins fiddling with nuts and larger cams while getting eaten alive by mosquitoes until I found something that would fit. When I got to the top, I found that the Climbing Fairy had left me an anchor, so I tied in and belayed him up. What a nice surprise. He's such an awesome instructor: he didn't say, "I don't trust your anchors and don't want to see you get hurt," but left me the pieces to totally safely do the part I'm not as good at. Aww. It was getting dark, so he didn't say much about my pieces, except that there were a few places where there were better placements I obviously hadn't seen. I get this note a lot. We walked out briskly and it was headlamp dark by the time we got to the car. All in all, it was the best climbing I've had since the accident and it reminded me that I'm pretty good at this stuff and why I like it.
I actually watched the storm clouds start moving in as I belayed him on the cliff, with the start of sunset on the horizon. Just gorgeous. Back at the lodge, we had sausage lasagna and garlic bread and birthday cake. GMac organized Adirondacks trivia with our three club officers as the contestants. I suggested the final question, asking them to tie knots behind their back while blindfolded. (I also contributed 2 blindfolds and one of the prizes.) Instant hilarity, especially as one of the cute girls in the club was passed out, but woke up only to see that bit, which confused the heck out of her. We finished off the Madeira and went to bed.
Most everyone left the next morning, but for $10pp, we decided to wait out the storm at the lodge. Good thing too, as our friends spent 12 hours in traffic, dodging flooded roads in the rain. Instead we went to town for lunch and dinner supplies. We stopped at the Mountaineer, but there were no bargains to be had at their garage sale. We were shopping in the main store when the owner said, "We're closing in 5 mins bc of the rain." We were probably the last customers ever at the garage sale annex. When we got back to the lodge, the power was already out and the bathtub had drained itself. *sighs* GMac and RobO had a blast climbing the chimney, mostly to open and close the skylights based on smokiness and how much water was getting in. GMac made me climb again as well, pointing out that I had a free, private climbing wall I wasn't using. I enjoyed hanging out with them, but zomg I need some alone time now. I took a nap and then RobO grilled the steak and lamb.
After dinner, he suggested we tell ghost stories, but no one knew any good ones, so instead, he suggested we tell about our biggest epic. I can't believe that in a crowd including someone with decades of mountaineering experience, our club chair, and a dedicated mountaineer like RobO, I had the worst epic, by far. RobO once destroyed his knee a mile from the car at the end of the day while ice climbing by himself; MLev freaked herself out hiking up Snowdon by herself, and GMac sprained his ankle while hiking out with me. Actually, he had two stories about rescuing other people: one was a small boy in a snow storm on some big mountain and one was a young woman stranded on our cliffs at the Gunks. Oddly enough, this is the first time I've ever told the story without a hitch in my throat. wtf. I'm doing something wrong. Also, GMac made me drink single malt. He's so mean.
We all quietly left at 6:15 the next morning. The drive back wasn't bad: as soon as we got into town, they had power and we stopped at Starbucks for breakfast. There were a few detours because 87 was closed from Harriman south, but we made it back to NYC a bit afternoon. The price of driving me to my apt was lunch so I took GMac to Salumeria Rosi, which I don't think he liked all that much, even though I ordered all sorts of nummy things and didn't steal all his wine. Then there was work and dealing with Mr. Grumpypants. Totally worth it.
I felt less bad about my extremely late arrival bc we spent Fri morning hanging around the breakfast room at R&R while GMac took a conference call. Then we climbed Chapel Pond Slab, one of the bestest slabs in the whole of the Adirondacks. Slab climbing is the opposite of overhanging: it's all about high friction on the rock, placing your weight, and footwork. We don't have any in the Gunks, so it was a real treat. GMac made it a 5 pitch climb and watching two other parties around us made me appreciate him all the more. He uses the best gear and clearly knows what he is doing, unlike the party that started ahead of us. A group of 4, possibly a mom in the lead with two kids and an older guy, came up behind us - without using any protection for the first 400' of the climb. Yes, it was only 5.3, 5.4 climbing but on the other hand, shit yo. Also, if you think the first 400' isn't worth roping up, why the heck would you want to lead the next pitch??
GMac and I did what is known as the cave finish. If you do it right, allegedly it's a 5.7 *****, but GMac had some pieces I had to clean tucked in some awkward spots. I managed to get one of his nuts stuck as a chock - fortunately, the climbers behind us retrieved it so he didn't have to downclimb to it. I failed to pass him either of his cordelettes on that pitch though, so he had to set the anchor with a bunch of slings. I maintain that 1 of the 4 pieces he set must not have been attached to the rope, bc somehow one of the anchor points went flying down the hill, freaking out the party behind us. *sighs* Of course it was a cam too, but at least it was one of his old ones. (I replaced it when we got back to town as per club policy. I was so fumble fingered all day though, GMac teased that his car is getting old, maybe he should let me drive more.) I'm afraid I never got my head back on for the rest of the day, but at least the walk off only took us 40mins, including going hand over hand down two fixed lines.
We still had time for a little more climbing, so we drove over to Shipton's Arete, which was on the back side of Chapel Pond. We had to walk along the beach, but there were several water "crossings" to get to the far side. There were logs, but AISOT, I had a nimbleness fail and landed on my ass in 1' muddy water when one of the logs rolled. *sighs* Gary lead Shipton's Voyage (5.4 ***) and cheered me up by asking me to guess which of the pieces was his favorite. (It was the pink tricam set in a vertical crack: I still have no idea how he did that and wish I'd paid more attention.) We also climbed China Grove (5.5) by moving the rope and I cleaned the anchor at the end. Did I mention my head wasn't on? I forgot to bring a belay device to rappel, so Gary had to tie one to the end of the rope and I had to haul it up. Good thing it was only 100'.
We stopped for Maker's Mark at the Ausable Inn. The bartender was funny and said it would be okay for me to drink mine on the rocks bc I'm a lady. Teehee. GMac teased me on the way out that the Marcy airfield was the perfect place to learn to drive, but then on our way back to the lodge, he turned in to the field. He said that being relaxed would help my first lesson in how to drive stick. I drove around the field several times and feel like I have a little feel for it and a vague idea of how it's supposed to work, but he's hella better at explaining top rope anchors than driving. I only stalled once, but really, I think I'll stick to airfields and empty parking lots for now.
RobO had organized catering for dinner and hanging out with 15 other climbers was fun. I had Stag's Leap with dinner and then I had Madeira on the porch. I've fallen in love with the Climber's Lodge at Rock & River. There's a geometric patterned staircase to the loft, but the centerpiece is a vast fireplace with a magnificent stone chimney. What a clever idea to build a chimney from stone - and leave enough space in the mortar for small fingers and cams! They even have top ropes permanently attached to anchors at the top, in case you didn't think they were serious. I climbed 3 routes in the back: I still don't have the cojones to try climbing the front while there's a fire in it. (And, the front doesn't really have handholds built in, though that didn't stop RobO or PYF from trying. They should know better at their age!)
Despite a late bedtime and a not late enough start, Sat was an awesome day of climbing. Basically everybody went to the Creature Wall and set top ropes. By the time GMac and I got there, all but one was set. I warmed up on Fire Starter (5.5), although I belayed several people up Gob Hoblin (5.7) first. GMac made it up, but I watched several other people fail. When it was my turn, I nimbly made it up. I'm finally starting to believe in short people climbs, bc there were places where my small feet were able to get more purchase on a teensy nub. Even on Fri, I'd felt like it was miraculous how my feet stuck to the wall: I'd smear and it would hold! Granite rocks. I was sore - GMac claims it was clinging for dear life on the cave pitch of Chapel Pond slab lest I fall awkwardly, I claim it was the chimney climbing - but was talked into climbing Black Moriah (5.8). It was a very slopey crack and I had to do a lot of foot jamming. The Gunks are easier to lead bc the cracks are horizontal - slap a cam in and you're done - but upstate (and NH) are far more interesting to me bc the cracks are vertical, so you can jam a hand or fist and hang from it. Which also feels pretty darn miraculous, if you ask me. Black Moriah was a little challenging - I fell a few times - but very satisfying. I felt acrobatic as I mantled and cammed.
One person already left at that point to beat Irene home, but GMac suggested we go to Owl's Head. On the way, we stopped at Pitch Off (sp?) so he could show me climbs there. I will never be as dedicated a climber as he: if he'd gotten Thurs off, he was going to go to the Gunks to practice top ropes and self-rescue techniques; he pulled over at midnight to show me climbs on the way up (hint: you can't see much in the dark). Anyhow, Owl's Head turned out to be a nice wall with an easy approach - with a bunch of 5.6 climbs. He demonstrated once more how to set up a top rope, which stuck much better this time. We climbed Wind Song, Central AC, and Hooters (all 5.6). Then he topped out and did something while I racked up.
Despite how well I'd climbed that morning, I wasn't ready to lead a 5.6, so he put me on an unmarked 5.3 G on the arete. (He claims there might be a 5.6 move somewhere in there.) At times, I felt too casual about the lead, like maybe I was being too acrobatic when the cost of falling was so very high, but I did enjoy the puzzle of placing pieces. I tried to only use only my pieces, to reflect what I might do when he and his gear aren't around, but I think I used the extra green cam he put on my harness. I also had one point when I really wanted a green cam and didn't have one, so I spent 15mins fiddling with nuts and larger cams while getting eaten alive by mosquitoes until I found something that would fit. When I got to the top, I found that the Climbing Fairy had left me an anchor, so I tied in and belayed him up. What a nice surprise. He's such an awesome instructor: he didn't say, "I don't trust your anchors and don't want to see you get hurt," but left me the pieces to totally safely do the part I'm not as good at. Aww. It was getting dark, so he didn't say much about my pieces, except that there were a few places where there were better placements I obviously hadn't seen. I get this note a lot. We walked out briskly and it was headlamp dark by the time we got to the car. All in all, it was the best climbing I've had since the accident and it reminded me that I'm pretty good at this stuff and why I like it.
I actually watched the storm clouds start moving in as I belayed him on the cliff, with the start of sunset on the horizon. Just gorgeous. Back at the lodge, we had sausage lasagna and garlic bread and birthday cake. GMac organized Adirondacks trivia with our three club officers as the contestants. I suggested the final question, asking them to tie knots behind their back while blindfolded. (I also contributed 2 blindfolds and one of the prizes.) Instant hilarity, especially as one of the cute girls in the club was passed out, but woke up only to see that bit, which confused the heck out of her. We finished off the Madeira and went to bed.
Most everyone left the next morning, but for $10pp, we decided to wait out the storm at the lodge. Good thing too, as our friends spent 12 hours in traffic, dodging flooded roads in the rain. Instead we went to town for lunch and dinner supplies. We stopped at the Mountaineer, but there were no bargains to be had at their garage sale. We were shopping in the main store when the owner said, "We're closing in 5 mins bc of the rain." We were probably the last customers ever at the garage sale annex. When we got back to the lodge, the power was already out and the bathtub had drained itself. *sighs* GMac and RobO had a blast climbing the chimney, mostly to open and close the skylights based on smokiness and how much water was getting in. GMac made me climb again as well, pointing out that I had a free, private climbing wall I wasn't using. I enjoyed hanging out with them, but zomg I need some alone time now. I took a nap and then RobO grilled the steak and lamb.
After dinner, he suggested we tell ghost stories, but no one knew any good ones, so instead, he suggested we tell about our biggest epic. I can't believe that in a crowd including someone with decades of mountaineering experience, our club chair, and a dedicated mountaineer like RobO, I had the worst epic, by far. RobO once destroyed his knee a mile from the car at the end of the day while ice climbing by himself; MLev freaked herself out hiking up Snowdon by herself, and GMac sprained his ankle while hiking out with me. Actually, he had two stories about rescuing other people: one was a small boy in a snow storm on some big mountain and one was a young woman stranded on our cliffs at the Gunks. Oddly enough, this is the first time I've ever told the story without a hitch in my throat. wtf. I'm doing something wrong. Also, GMac made me drink single malt. He's so mean.
We all quietly left at 6:15 the next morning. The drive back wasn't bad: as soon as we got into town, they had power and we stopped at Starbucks for breakfast. There were a few detours because 87 was closed from Harriman south, but we made it back to NYC a bit afternoon. The price of driving me to my apt was lunch so I took GMac to Salumeria Rosi, which I don't think he liked all that much, even though I ordered all sorts of nummy things and didn't steal all his wine. Then there was work and dealing with Mr. Grumpypants. Totally worth it.