Today I’m writing about something I don’t actually know much about: national dresses. Or rather, cantonal dresses, as we’ll be talking about Switzerland. Each canton - even each district! - has its own historical dress.
What has this to do with 18th century fashion, though? A lot! Many of these dresses have their origins in the 18th century,
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large fur hats
Oh yes! The father of a schoolfriend wore one, we call them streiml hats here. Ah, childhood memories... :)
I wouldn't call it a national dress, though; maybe faith-related? Just like modest clothing for some Christians? National dresses here are not influenced by religion (I think).
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When we first moved here my daughter was stiill little. She called those hats 'cake hats.' She thought they looked like big layer cakes!
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Hmm, if you ask... It's quite a diversity where I come from. Almost every village has own dress. I think these ones are the closest to my birthplace: 1, 2. The ethnic group's name is Lachy Sądeckie. The costume took this shape mostly in XIX and in the first half of XX century, especially man's coat; as you can see woman's corset looks quite XVIII-age too. ;) They diverse mostly in details of the embroidery. Today they are used mostly in folk music bands, almost every local municipality has one. This is how they look in action: 1, 2, 3.
However, the costume of highlanders from Tatras is more widely known. Here they present 'zbójnicki', meaning 'robbers' dance'. Traditionally, a bonfire is supposed to be on the stump's place. Women's dress is similar to Lachy's, only with flower-patterned skirts, and shoes are very alike men's. This is how they look like.
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The embroideries are amazing. Imagine how long it must have taken to finish only one piece of garment. :O That 18th century influence seems to be found in many national dresses; I wonder if that's when it all started. Age of fashion enlightment! :)
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These are costumes from the region I described here. The middle part of the clip (5:00 - 7:00) is special fun. *g*
The guys dancing zbójnicki under the previous link neglected one important element. 3:05 and 3:25 *g*
Here one Englishman writes about folk costumes in a Corpus Christi procession he witnessed and photographed in Łowicz last year.
As for 'still used' aspect, there's one element that's common in many Polish folk costumes, that is a colorful (most often flowery) shawl. Older women in countryside still use it as headscarf, like this. However, recently they are coming back to fashion (CLICK) in cities and among young women: CLICK
The traditional female handicraft in Koniaków on Silesia is knitting of laces, such ones. Some time ago, the artists decided it's high time for some business thinking, and now one can have not only lace tableclothes, but also thongs, bras, tops, and even whole dresses. If you ask how it wears, no idea. Haven't tried. *g ( ... )
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Ahem. *cough*
there's explanation that folk costumes formed when the XIX century brought manufactured - that is cheaper and relatively unified - fabrics, sequins and such. Still, I'm sure it doesn't explain national patterns, like Scottish tartan(s).
Ohhh... now that's an excellent point! Looks like I have something else to add to my endless list of "things to research". About tartan - I don't think its originas are in Scotland; I think it was more a "common pattern" thousands of years ago in some parts of Europe. Maybe it has something to do with the method/tools of weaving used?
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There isn't a regional dress here, though a lot of people like to wear the Old South hoop skirted dresses when they are doing reinactments.
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Just curious.
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Heh, funny that you're saying that, because it was one of the things we really noticed when we went to Vienna - the great number of Dirndls and Trachtenjanker on the street! :-D But maybe we only noticed because you don't see anyhting like this here at all, at least not in the city.
I'm not a huge fan of the modernised dirndls - the Bratwurstpromis wearing them doesn't help. Minidirndl and plexi platforms - uaaaah! *shudder*
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