Steuchlein - Zopfe and Coif Updated
Today was nice, and very productive. I managed to do laundry, cook a ham, work on the garden and yard, study for German (class starts up again tomorrow), get to Home Depot, take care of a sick hubby...
After talking about getting together a couple of times a month, sstormwatchand I managed to get together for some work on my Steuchlein ideas. There are a few "layer" pieces that I am still working out, and I was glad to have her there to give me her advice and expert help! (*HUGS* Thank you honey!)
The items still being worked on are the mock-up of the coif/cap from the Met. Given the new measurements received from Elizabeth Bryan, Collections Manager of the Costume institute, sstormwatchdrafted a pattern for me to use making a copy of the item. The basic paper draft, held up to my head, seemed to indicate that the cap *might* have enough space in it to act as a cover for a smaller Wulst. Then again, since I have a large head (no jokes necessary, please *snort*), it might be hard to tell if it was an under cap, or an over layer, on my big ol' mellon. *chuckle*
So, that is something I will be working on putting together shortly...
Along with that. I plan on drafting and assembling a second 'Elizabethan Type Coif' based on attack_laurel 's work. This one will be based on one of the early 17th C versions from PoF 4: This one has a *much * bigger 'hair/*Wulst* bump. *happy dance* I was soooo excited when I saw it. There is a good chance that it will a) fit over any underlayers and shaping bits, such as a Wulst and b) hold the darn thing in place!
This may mean I end up with two basic 'underlayers' to hold on my Wulst with, to "play test" in the course of a reenactment day. I figure I will have a few chances to do so in the next year or so. Long term project. In the meantime, I still plan on stting down and trying out a number of options with sstormwatch as soon as I get all the bits done.
Oh yeah, that brings me to the last one of the 'underbits' I need to finish.
The Zopfe.
Having re-read the Textiler Hausrat section on this item, I chatted up sstormwatch while she was visiting: The questions about the item include
1) Given that the inventories state that the lenghts of silk bought to construct them were 1 1/4 and 1 1/8 ell's, just how were these things cut from the fabric and how long did they end up being?
Well, we got various answers from J. Arnold sources, the internet, etc on the length of an ell. *rolls eyes* However, we settled on 45" based on the J. Arnold discussion of the ell in the back of the other PoF book from the period. We also decided that a lengthwise cut of the fabric made more sense than most of the other options. Based on the image of the false-braidmaker from the Textiler Hausrat, an overall length of about 45"-55" made sense. This also seems to work for braids being used to bulk hair if they braids are used in the same manner as a hair tape (such as in the Tudor Tailor demonstrations here).
The sizes of these tubes are going to be a little trial-and-error...
2) How many to make in a "pair"?
The Textiler Hausrat describes these items as usually being inventoried in "pairs". Given prior experiance in dealing with adding false fiber, ribbon, etc into hair braids, and the estimated lenght of these braids, we are up in the air on this one. I don't think a "pair" means 'two tubes/false sections'. Two sections wouldn't account for the hair styles demonstrated in the Textiler Hausrat has having been used with Zopfe. The next though is that a pair is two sets (probably of three tubes each). This makes sense for some of the later period images that show two LONG braids of false hair being worn. However, that amount of false hair would seem to be more than could be covered by someones natural hair in the "Durer Girl Going to a Party" style. Six strands of aprox 50" each would simply be too much false hair to cover.
Then sstormwatch pointed out that a "pair" of bodies is only ONE corset. So, maybe a "pair" of braids is simply one complete set (of three tubes)?
No way of knowing without mocking up enough to try both theories. So I am going to make six basic tubes and we will try a number of different styles to see what works. I don't know that this will be a fair estimation, since I only have shoulder lenght hair, and it isn't that thick, but we'll try!
Thoughts, input and comments are all welcome. With any luck I will actually have images for the next entry.
After talking about getting together a couple of times a month, sstormwatchand I managed to get together for some work on my Steuchlein ideas. There are a few "layer" pieces that I am still working out, and I was glad to have her there to give me her advice and expert help! (*HUGS* Thank you honey!)
The items still being worked on are the mock-up of the coif/cap from the Met. Given the new measurements received from Elizabeth Bryan, Collections Manager of the Costume institute, sstormwatchdrafted a pattern for me to use making a copy of the item. The basic paper draft, held up to my head, seemed to indicate that the cap *might* have enough space in it to act as a cover for a smaller Wulst. Then again, since I have a large head (no jokes necessary, please *snort*), it might be hard to tell if it was an under cap, or an over layer, on my big ol' mellon. *chuckle*
So, that is something I will be working on putting together shortly...
Along with that. I plan on drafting and assembling a second 'Elizabethan Type Coif' based on attack_laurel 's work. This one will be based on one of the early 17th C versions from PoF 4: This one has a *much * bigger 'hair/*Wulst* bump. *happy dance* I was soooo excited when I saw it. There is a good chance that it will a) fit over any underlayers and shaping bits, such as a Wulst and b) hold the darn thing in place!
This may mean I end up with two basic 'underlayers' to hold on my Wulst with, to "play test" in the course of a reenactment day. I figure I will have a few chances to do so in the next year or so. Long term project. In the meantime, I still plan on stting down and trying out a number of options with sstormwatch as soon as I get all the bits done.
Oh yeah, that brings me to the last one of the 'underbits' I need to finish.
The Zopfe.
Having re-read the Textiler Hausrat section on this item, I chatted up sstormwatch while she was visiting: The questions about the item include
1) Given that the inventories state that the lenghts of silk bought to construct them were 1 1/4 and 1 1/8 ell's, just how were these things cut from the fabric and how long did they end up being?
Well, we got various answers from J. Arnold sources, the internet, etc on the length of an ell. *rolls eyes* However, we settled on 45" based on the J. Arnold discussion of the ell in the back of the other PoF book from the period. We also decided that a lengthwise cut of the fabric made more sense than most of the other options. Based on the image of the false-braidmaker from the Textiler Hausrat, an overall length of about 45"-55" made sense. This also seems to work for braids being used to bulk hair if they braids are used in the same manner as a hair tape (such as in the Tudor Tailor demonstrations here).
The sizes of these tubes are going to be a little trial-and-error...
2) How many to make in a "pair"?
The Textiler Hausrat describes these items as usually being inventoried in "pairs". Given prior experiance in dealing with adding false fiber, ribbon, etc into hair braids, and the estimated lenght of these braids, we are up in the air on this one. I don't think a "pair" means 'two tubes/false sections'. Two sections wouldn't account for the hair styles demonstrated in the Textiler Hausrat has having been used with Zopfe. The next though is that a pair is two sets (probably of three tubes each). This makes sense for some of the later period images that show two LONG braids of false hair being worn. However, that amount of false hair would seem to be more than could be covered by someones natural hair in the "Durer Girl Going to a Party" style. Six strands of aprox 50" each would simply be too much false hair to cover.
Then sstormwatch pointed out that a "pair" of bodies is only ONE corset. So, maybe a "pair" of braids is simply one complete set (of three tubes)?
No way of knowing without mocking up enough to try both theories. So I am going to make six basic tubes and we will try a number of different styles to see what works. I don't know that this will be a fair estimation, since I only have shoulder lenght hair, and it isn't that thick, but we'll try!
Thoughts, input and comments are all welcome. With any luck I will actually have images for the next entry.