The first thing which comes to mind is that unless you want to water regularly and often, you'd want to plant a bit farther out from the wall of the structure, anyway, and if you do that you can make that three-foot overhang work for, rather than against, you. (Go on: ask me how I know about this.) It's actually a boon to be able to get behind a shrub to maintain it, and it's better for the shrub and a lot better for the house!
The plant which is coming to mind---you're in Texas? am I recalling that correctlly, or am I completely off base?---is rhododendron, and/or azaleas. They both are big, big acid-eaters, though, so you might need to amend your soil and/or use a plant food for acid-lovers. The rhodies can be found in evergreen varieties, too. I'm not sure about the azaleas, but I'm betting someone here can speak to that.
Most shrubs want to get quite a bit taller and wider than we want them to be, so pruning is in order, almost always
( ... )
I'm in Illinois, so I was thinking evergreens since we only have deciduous leaves 5 months out of the year. I have red twig dogwoods in the front of the house, so I thought evergreens so it didn't look brown and dead the majority of the year.
I've never planted rhododendron or azaleas, partially since I've heard they're difficult/tempermental.
I'll probably plant the shrubs farther out than they currently are, since you're right, I don't think it's a great idea having shrubs right against the house.
Ah. Well, I did have another look at a different site describing the care (and a couple of different varieties) of the Ninebark, and it was mentioned there that all parts of that plant are known to be poisonous, so if small children and/or pets are involved or are a concern (as I'd assume they would be!) then that one might not be the plant for you
( ... )
I'm in IL (just south of Chicago), and azaleas do beautifully for me, even in containers. :) I've had smaller ones, and the big bush/shrub variety. Even without blooms, their foliage is pretty nice, and they can be shaped if you want, but also tend to grow nicely if left alone if you like that natural look (I do!).
No specific plant ideas, but I was thinking, if there is a stump right in the middle, put an arches trellis over it and something that will crawl up on both sides. You could then hang a flag or banner thing, or even a decorative wind chime or something underneath. :) That way you will still have symmetry and the bed be full, and won't have to worry about planting around the stump. :)
A couple of fancy trellises would look nice with some climbing plants. That flat, windowless wall is staring at me, telling me it needs to be broken up with something elaborate. Maybe some kind of ornamental planter in there too.
Re: Perhaps a bit of edible landscaping?kharmiiJune 27 2015, 11:06:45 UTC
I know what you mean. Roses don't seem to do well in the Midwest. It's like every kind of mold gets on them, and winter kills off some. My climbing rose has to basically start over every year from being cut to the ground.
Re: Perhaps a bit of edible landscaping?rhodielady_47June 27 2015, 11:22:37 UTC
Two things I've found that really help with roses here in the Midwest: 1) Always plant a brand new rose with its graft BELOW the soil line. WHY: The graft is the most vulnerable part of a rose when it comes to freeze damage. Keeping it covered with soil gives it a lot more protection. You also get the bonus of making that rose a stronger plant by giving it a chance to develop some of its own roots. I had no luck at all with Kordes Perfecta or Peace until I did so. 2) Bathe brand new rose bushes in a milk/yogurt/water mix before planting. Milk bacteria love to attack and eat various types of fungus and mildew, so your rose will be healthier. Hope this helps you as much as it's helped me. :^)
Every one so far has good suggestions. What is the cardinal orientation of the wall (N S E W)? My thought is it needs color. Without knowing that orientation roses first came to mind. They need south or west orientation though. Flowering vines like mandevilla on trellises would give both color and height.
ABOUT THAT STUMP--rhodielady_47June 27 2015, 06:43:03 UTC
I also have a stump where a tree used to be at one corner of my house. Having the stump ground out was too expensive, so I decided to put a birm there and I planted it with daffodil bulbs. Now that the daffodils are dormant, I have annuals growing in their place. In about five years, I plan on removing the birm and planting a shrub there--once the stump has rotted away. (The daffodils can then find another home elsewhere in the yard.)
DO YOU LIKE EATING MUSHROOMS??? If you do, you could buy some mushroom plugs to insert into that stump. The mushroom fungus would eat the stump and you'd have mushrooms to eat. You could still plant other shrubs, flowers, or vines around the stump since the mushrooms won't affect them. :^)
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It's actually a boon to be able to get behind a shrub to maintain it, and it's better for the shrub and a lot better for the house!
The plant which is coming to mind---you're in Texas? am I recalling that correctlly, or am I completely off base?---is rhododendron, and/or azaleas. They both are big, big acid-eaters, though, so you might need to amend your soil and/or use a plant food for acid-lovers. The rhodies can be found in evergreen varieties, too. I'm not sure about the azaleas, but I'm betting someone here can speak to that.
Most shrubs want to get quite a bit taller and wider than we want them to be, so pruning is in order, almost always ( ... )
Reply
I've never planted rhododendron or azaleas, partially since I've heard they're difficult/tempermental.
I'll probably plant the shrubs farther out than they currently are, since you're right, I don't think it's a great idea having shrubs right against the house.
Reply
Well, I did have another look at a different site describing the care (and a couple of different varieties) of the Ninebark, and it was mentioned there that all parts of that plant are known to be poisonous, so if small children and/or pets are involved or are a concern (as I'd assume they would be!) then that one might not be the plant for you ( ... )
Reply
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1) Always plant a brand new rose with its graft BELOW the soil line.
WHY: The graft is the most vulnerable part of a rose when it comes to freeze damage. Keeping it covered with soil gives it a lot more protection. You also get the bonus of making that rose a stronger plant by giving it a chance to develop some of its own roots.
I had no luck at all with Kordes Perfecta or Peace until I did so.
2) Bathe brand new rose bushes in a milk/yogurt/water mix before planting. Milk bacteria love to attack and eat various types of fungus and mildew, so your rose will be healthier.
Hope this helps you as much as it's helped me.
:^)
Reply
Reply
In about five years, I plan on removing the birm and planting a shrub there--once the stump has rotted away. (The daffodils can then find another home elsewhere in the yard.)
DO YOU LIKE EATING MUSHROOMS???
If you do, you could buy some mushroom plugs to insert into that stump. The mushroom fungus would eat the stump and you'd have mushrooms to eat.
You could still plant other shrubs, flowers, or vines around the stump since the mushrooms won't affect them.
:^)
Reply
Reply
:^)
Reply
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