We've had a couple of unseasonably warm days here in USDA zone 7A, and the daffodils think it is spring! April 30 is our average last frost date, which, now that I'm thinking about it, sounds rather late for the daffodils - my calendar says their last bloom began March 20, 2010. But, I don't have a record of when we saw their first green, and I'm
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Learning to prune my roses aggressively was a year-by-year experiment, because I just couldn't be convinced it was okay to cut them back so hard until I tried it (on only half the plants, at first!). I'm sure it'll be the same with these trees, but I'm so sentimental about them that every year I'd stand there with the shears and think, 1/3? Really? But he's just a baby! D:
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Daffs *do* bloom before "last frost dates," which in my neck of the woods averages---**averages**---mid-May.
You don't need to worry about mulching them: they don't need any protecting and if you get another blanketing of snow, that will help to insulate them. They're quite sturdy.
In case you've got crocuses, those will push their colorful little heads up through the snow even before the daffodils, and the snowdrops make their showing even earlier than that.
Those spring-flowering bulbs know what they're doing.
You don't have to trust me on this, but you can trust them.
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I remember the year in college (it was in Massachusetts) when we had snow on Easter Day in April. The daffs were in full bloom. They bowed their heads for a day or so, until the snow melted off, but they kept blooming as usual.
No need to worry about the spring bulbs blooming too early, really!
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At home, I make a difference between *landscaping,* which is for decoration, for pretty, for visual interest, and in some instances for privacy, and *gardening.* Sometimes the line between them blurs a bit.
Take your time.
Always plant a bit less than you think you can take care of, especially while you're learning what each type of plant or each particular cultivar of some plant needs. Otherwise, it's too easy to get overwhelmed at first, not so much with the actual *doing,* but of keeping straight in your head what has to be done, and when and how often and most importantly, *why.*
And that's an important point, I think: as you absorb the "why's" and integrate them in your knowledge and understanding of your garden (and the seasons), it becomes a lot easier to remember the what's.
(Hope that helps!)
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As for your trees (which I know more about!) it's generally best to trim deciduous trees when they're dormant. No buds have bloomed, no leaves have formed, and the tree looks like a mass of sticks. Trees recover best from pruning when they're not in their growing state.
Also, be careful to not trim off too much 2nd year wood and spurs from your pear tree (this is where your fruit will come from!) and I *think* it's one-year wood on peach trees. You can tell what year is which when you look at a the newest twigs. (In case you're unsure!) There should be a bud scar that looks like a dividing line where the wood looks older on once side and newer on the other. The lightest is most recent (1-year) wood. Tadah! And you can count back before that to 2-year and so on. lol... am I making any sense? Hope this all helps...
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Some of my balkiness in pruning the peach is the presence of numerous fuzzy buds, but it's true that they are tightly closed and I'm pretty sure they've been there most/all winter long. So probably I should just ignore these, and cut the branches by 1/3, right?
The pear I could cut by probably half its height, if that wouldn't hurt it. It grew into a TALL narrow shape thanks to other trees throwing shade on it. We plan to remove or at least severely prune the shadowing trees this weekend though, so maybe the pear will be happier with a short, bushier shape. Certainly it would be easier to reach its fruit! :)
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I guess my main concern is that, since I've totally neglected to prune for the 4 years I've had them, both are so overgrown that removing only new wood wouldn't be nearly enough to shape the tree. Probably I will have to follow the 1/3 rule for the peach, and hope the pear will be happy at half its current height.
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Be careful about pruning too much, too. Generally the 1/3 rule is there to prevent dormant buds from sprouting into watersprouts and getting out of control when you prune. Be sure to keep your central leader branch and scaffold branches chosen before you start pruning. We can worry about pruning for fruit production later.
Good luck!
p.s. Pear trees are beautiful in bloom. *sighs* :) Enjoy.
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But given that I've not pruned them *at all* in the 4 years they've lived here, they desperately need it. So I expect to follow the advice of others about pruning during dormancy, i.e. right now. But maybe they could take another round in the summer, when their regrowth is out of control? Surely that will serve them better than letting the peaches weigh the lowest branches to the ground.
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This is my second favorite time of year. Sure, here in Oklahoma we're in what's considered the worst part of winter. But here we are seeing GREEN making its first appearance. It's that sign that winter will soon be at an end. FINALLY.
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When's your favorite time of year? "Isolated spring day" might just be mine, because it feels like such a treat to loll about in the sun on Valentine's Day!
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Such a change from when I lived in Florida, and my favorite "season" was "winter," heh.
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