22nd Colouring - For Basic Beginners
this: 
to something like this:
If you use, can I see your results?
FIRSTLY: I want to emphasise the fact that this will be as BEGINNER friendly as possible. Know what that means? Lots of blah-di-blah! Hope you have the patience to read through this, everyone, because it's not only for my benefit ((I have a poor memory)) but yours too. I'll try to explain why I used certain colours and why I chose the settings, as well as how to go about the "basic" steps that beginners don't often get told ((like how to duplicate a base; do you know how long it took until I tracked down what everybody meant by the phrase?)). I'll have diagrams under links when I can, but unfortunately there won't be caps of the actual appearance of the icon in the transformation process ((get that? XD)); when I was making it I wasn't paying much attention to capping them, and if I remake that icon for a third time I think I'll go mad ((yes third; had some animation problems in my original one, but the second one turned out all right; plus I was able to undo some steps in order to manipulate a still shot to get the end result ... icon ... thing ...)).
Moving on ...
SECONDLY: As stated in my "befriend me" post in my journal ((as no one reads it I might as well tell you what it says)), I use PSP 9 unless stated otherwise. HOWEVER the other PSP versions are somewhat similar ((with the exception of accessing a layers table [so I hear] which I'll discuss later on)), so it shouldn't be too hard to follow ((particularly if you take the time to look at the diagrams)). PS users, I don't use "selective colouring" as we all know PSP doesn't have selective colouring; it's just block colours in the "#whatever" fashion. I will, though, write down each Red, Green and Blue indications for each colour so that you can get a colour similar to what I use - HOWEVER originality is always best ((this goes to everyone)) and so it's better to tweek the colours and settings to fit your icon, so although I'll give you a rough estimate of colours to use, don't try to be accurate to the letter as you may end up with something that looks like a blob of vomit.
NOTE: The majority of the links in the following tutorial have busted. The ones that do not have violent red writing next to them are okay. I apologise for the inconvenience - some day I may be able to recreate the images that went there.
ALSO: The LJ Cut that was on this entry suddenly decided to kick out half of the entry and doesn't want to hide the whole thing anymore, so I've kept it all open until further notice.
Now, are you ready?
CHECK LIST:
1 computer ((duh))
1 photo / picture manipulating program ((PSP, PS ...))
1 black and white photo / picture / screen cap ((what you will))
I am going to presume you have basic computer literary skills ((grammer and spelling not important for this)), and thusfore know what a toolbar is ((heh, "thusfore" ... my guide, my lingo)). I am also going to presume that you would have at least ONCE in your life mucked about with the basic Windows Paint program ((or whatever default paint program there is on a MAC)); ergo ((XD)) there is no need for you to have a spaz attack when you click the "eraser" icon and find that your curser has changed into a hovering circle ((I am also going to presume you know what an "icon" is. If not, I think you better take a walk)). That being said, open your program and the picture of your choice ((please don't make me get THAT basic)) and, before you do anything else, make sure all your toolbars are viewable ((right click < Toolbars < [all the ones you haven't got open yet])). Yes, even the ones you're not going to use in this tut. Get used to them being there on your screen; you may very well end up using them someday, and it's best to have them all on the ready than to have a frantic fit later on trying to find each one. Also, open up your palattes ((right click < Palettes < [what you haven't got open yet])) The most important one you need for this is called "Layers", which can be ((also)) accessed by pressing F8 on your keyboard ((for PSP7 users it's also accessible by clicking an icon of a red square overlapping a blue one? Something like that?)). Your Layers palette should appear under your Materials palette on the right hand side ((click me)).
To make things easier for me I usually drag the Layers Palette ((I often call the Layers Palette a Layers Table in my tuts, just so you know)) into the working area ((that would be the dark grey area seen in the diagram above)). The Layers Table Palette is the only place where I know how to "select" a layer ((explained soon)), plus it saves time from going to the Layers drop bar in the menu bar and so forth ((that's not to say don't go to the Layers drop bar EVER; but for the purpose of this tutorial I only need "even numbered degrees of opacity" [again, more later], so I'll firstly show you how to work form the Layers Palette. If you want to know about the drop down bar, for layers it's under "Layers" in the menu [well ... yes]. The guide shall show you the way, tally-ho!)).
Now, one of the problems with black and white pictures is that some of them have a low colour depth. What does that mean? If you decided just to randomly scribble on your pic with a coloured brush just to release the Beginner's Hype ((which can always be undone by clicking the Undo arrow [please tell me you know what that looks like])), and yet when you went to select a colour a palette of black, grey and white squares was thrust in your face, that means you can only work with black grey and white ((otherwise known as a low colour depth)). DON'T PANIC. Go to Image < Increase Colour Depth ((yes I'm aware it's an American English program, however I'm Australian English, so I'll spell it with a "u" - unless someone suffers from a severe heart attack [Holy Grail, anyone?] from being unable to find the selction due to one letter's spelling difference, I'm keeping the "u")), then select which of the colour depths you want ((click me <-- Link busted)). I generally go for the 16 Million Colours (24 bit) option. If, though, you're capable of scribbling colour onto your black and white pic as soon as you open it, then you don't have to worry about the colour depth.
BTW, I'm using this pic of Alan Rickman found on this site
, because
A) It's Alan Rickman
B) It's black and white, which is what we need for this tutorial
C) The area I want to use can easily be cropped to 100 x 100 without resizing ((explained in next paragraph)), and
D) It's Alan Rickman
Now, cropping and resizing. In PSP7 I have no idea on how to use the crop tool ((I tried PSP7 on my sister's computer and got stuck)), so I won't be able to explain how it works in that program. I'm generally fortunate enough to choose pictures that don't need much resizing - if any at all - when I crop it ((such as the picture used for this tut)), however if you're working with a larger photo / picture / screen cap ((whatever)), it may be best if you read this first (( click me)). You're lucky to see this as a beginner; I learnt of this after making a ton of non-changeable icons *sighs*. So, hopefully you would have read the entry in the link, or at least know about cropping and resizing if you're not a beginner; let's just basically run through it anyhow. Select the section you want to crop, with the Maintain Aspect Ratio square ticked, double click on the area in order to crop. If the area you want to have cropped is at 100 x 100 already, you don't need to resize ((click me <-- Link busted)). If you need to resize, go to Image < Resize and then alter the numbers so that the "blue numbers" are at 100 x 100 ((click me <-- Link busted)). If you can't get it exactly to 100 x 100, then just chose the next size up ((this can be anything, like 101, 102, 105, whatever it says; don't go into the 90s, it's not needed for this tutorial)). Then go to Image < Canvas Size and make it 100 x 100 ((click me <-- Link busted)). If you've had to go a few pixels above 100 ((say it went to 102 for example)) then when you change the canvas size you'll lose a pixel or two along the sides ((but don't panic, you've still got your image, right?)). Once you've set the canvas go back to Image < Resize and set it to 100 x 100.
SAVE YOUR IMAGE BEFORE YOUR COMPUTER EXPLODES
NOW FOR THE COLOURING! YAAAAAAAY!
Remember how I said I dragged out my Layers Table Palette? ((Old habits die hard ... And all the Rickman fans go ... XD)) The following tutorial is written based on the Layers Palette being in the working area, and not in the right-hand bar. I'm going to show you an alternate method for a part of the colouring process in the section marked *NOTE, and I'm also going to tell you there why I chose NOT to go by that method.
Now that you have your cropped and resized image, you can go about colouring it. In your Layers Palette, right click on the bar labelled Background, select New Raster Layer, and OK. In your Layers Palette a new layer should appear called Raster 1 ((click me <-- Link busted)). Now select your Fill Colour tool ((click me <-- Link busted)), and click the Foreground square in the Materials palette ((click me <-- Link busted)). Your curser should look like an eyedropper when it's hovered over the Foreground ((and Background)) square((s)). When you click it a colour window called Material Properties should appear and in the box where it says HTML: type in #f6dbd6 ** ((click me <-- Link busted)). Now that you have that colour selected in your Fill Colour tool, click on your image. This should immediately make your picture look like a square of peach ((of sorts ... ish)). Now, in the Layers Palette click on the little black arrow to the right of the bar that says Normal, select Multiply. In the bar to the right of the little eye move the arrows to the left so that the number reads 20 . This means that Raster 1 - filled with the pale peachy colour - is set to Multiply 20%; the percent meaning Opacity ((click me <-- Link busted)). You image should look peachy XD. Now, you can chose to start erasing all the areas you don't want coloured, however I waited until the other two colours for the skin were set; your choice. The other two colours are inserted in the same process, only they have different blendings and opacity settings. Here's what you should have for each of the 3 layers for the skin:
Skin
Raster 1: #f6dbd6, Multiply 20%
Raster 2: #f6d6e8, Colour 40%
Raster 3: #f6f0d6, Colour 58%
I chose those colours because in most pictures they're reflected as skin colours. It may look a bit odd now but of course we haven't finished yet.
Now that you've got the 3 colours in, it's time to duplicate the base ((oh tremble XD)). In your Layers Palette, right click on Background and select Duplicate. A new bar will appear called "Copy of Background". Click and drag that to the top, so it's sitting on top of Raster 3. Then set the Duplicted Base to Lighten 100% ((click me <-- Link busted))
NOW I chose to start erasing all the parts that aren't skin. Your eraser tool should be on the left side, and you should have the default circle for it. For larger areas I set the brush size to 22. For medium areas I use size 11. For the tedious outlines I use sizes 5, 3 and 2 ((click me <-- Link busted)). If - when you start erasing the background - you can't really see if the eraser tool is doing its job, set the duplicated base layer to another setting temporarily, like Screen. I chose to erase all the large areas from each layer first, then move on to a smaller brush, and so forth. Erasing the top layer ((your duplicated base)) is easy. To get to the other layers, you need only click the bars marked "Raster" whatever. Try going down the list; do the large bit in the duplicated base, then click on Raster 3 and erase in the same areas, then Raster 2 < Raster 1. Then move on to the size 11 and do the process again. Once you've finished erasing set your duplicated base layer back on Lighten.
et voila! Skin! It's important to evenly level out the peach, pink and yellow. One degree out of place and you could get it too orange, too pink, even too yellow. And it's important to have that duplicated layer in there because it helps to soften the blow of the colours.
Now that you know how to do the skin, the hair and the tie is coloured in the same process. Here's what you need:
HairRaster 4: #251a19, Colour 72%
Raster 5: #433833, Colour 78%
Raster 6: #3f2820, Colour 36%
Duplicated Base: Luminance (Legacy) ((or "(L)")) 100%
Tie
Raster 7: #e42c28, Colour 34%
Raster 8: #ec4454, Colour 32%
Raster 9: #ff374f, Colour 18%
Duplicated Base: Luminance (L) 100%
Now to darken the picture, add one more Raster Layer on top of your third Duplicated Base, fill it with black and set to Overlay 36%. Your Layers Palette should be extremely long by now ((click me <-- Link busted)) ...
....................................................................................................
*NOTE
As promised, the alterior method ((wow, I'm so drunk with weariness I can't even see what I'm writing; lucky I can type with my eyes closed but please forgive any spelling errors I make)). This has mainly to do with the method of filling in the colours ((as I'm tired and I don't think I need to explore going through the menu bar to add layers and adjust the opacity; leave that for another tutorial)). Now it may seem like a good idea to put in your first colour, erase the background, then duplicate the raster layer and fill in the coloured sections with the next colour ((and so on)), however ... it's not. The reason is that despite the natural light and dark dimensions of the picture, following this mentioned method will still make the colours look clumped. Blocked. El Fako. My method in the tutorial may be tedious, but making icons IS. And the hand never follows the exact same trail twice - unless you're blimmin' fantastic with the steadiest hands in the world. Some parts along the "edges" in each layer will remain, some won't, which then starts to blend the colours together ... well ... maybe not blend, but it adds diversity to the tones of the outlines, instead of making it look like some Gumby made. Kay?
....................................................................................................
** PS Users look here
Raster 1
Red: 246
Green: 219
Blue: 214
Raster 2
Red: 246
Green: 214
Blue: 232
Raster 3
Red: 246
Green: 240
Blue: 214
Raster 4
Red: 37
Green: 26
Blue: 25
Raster 5
Red: 67
Green: 56
Blue: 51
Raster 6
Red: 63
Green: 40
Blue: 32
Raster 7
Red: 228
Green: 44
Blue: 40
Raster 8
Red: 236
Green: 68
Blue: 84
Raster 9
Red: 255
Green: 55
Blue: 79
....................................................................................................
All right. Now you know how to colour a black and white picture. The next step is finding textures and brushes to decorate your icon with, if you choose to. I suggest you look in LJ communites like 100x00_brushes, 100x100_textures, and so forth. I hope you like the colouring and I hope you understood the tutorial despite its length ... Please excuse me, I need to grab a cuppa and faint.
PS: The icons I made using this tutorial, in the order I made them in:
((yeah the 3rd one was just testing if the colour worked on other black and white pics. I seem to have murdered a classic Anthony Warlow pic. PLEASE FORGIVE ME!!))
to something like this:
If you use, can I see your results?
FIRSTLY: I want to emphasise the fact that this will be as BEGINNER friendly as possible. Know what that means? Lots of blah-di-blah! Hope you have the patience to read through this, everyone, because it's not only for my benefit ((I have a poor memory)) but yours too. I'll try to explain why I used certain colours and why I chose the settings, as well as how to go about the "basic" steps that beginners don't often get told ((like how to duplicate a base; do you know how long it took until I tracked down what everybody meant by the phrase?)). I'll have diagrams under links when I can, but unfortunately there won't be caps of the actual appearance of the icon in the transformation process ((get that? XD)); when I was making it I wasn't paying much attention to capping them, and if I remake that icon for a third time I think I'll go mad ((yes third; had some animation problems in my original one, but the second one turned out all right; plus I was able to undo some steps in order to manipulate a still shot to get the end result ... icon ... thing ...)).
Moving on ...
SECONDLY: As stated in my "befriend me" post in my journal ((as no one reads it I might as well tell you what it says)), I use PSP 9 unless stated otherwise. HOWEVER the other PSP versions are somewhat similar ((with the exception of accessing a layers table [so I hear] which I'll discuss later on)), so it shouldn't be too hard to follow ((particularly if you take the time to look at the diagrams)). PS users, I don't use "selective colouring" as we all know PSP doesn't have selective colouring; it's just block colours in the "#whatever" fashion. I will, though, write down each Red, Green and Blue indications for each colour so that you can get a colour similar to what I use - HOWEVER originality is always best ((this goes to everyone)) and so it's better to tweek the colours and settings to fit your icon, so although I'll give you a rough estimate of colours to use, don't try to be accurate to the letter as you may end up with something that looks like a blob of vomit.
NOTE: The majority of the links in the following tutorial have busted. The ones that do not have violent red writing next to them are okay. I apologise for the inconvenience - some day I may be able to recreate the images that went there.
ALSO: The LJ Cut that was on this entry suddenly decided to kick out half of the entry and doesn't want to hide the whole thing anymore, so I've kept it all open until further notice.
Now, are you ready?
CHECK LIST:
1 computer ((duh))
1 photo / picture manipulating program ((PSP, PS ...))
1 black and white photo / picture / screen cap ((what you will))
I am going to presume you have basic computer literary skills ((grammer and spelling not important for this)), and thusfore know what a toolbar is ((heh, "thusfore" ... my guide, my lingo)). I am also going to presume that you would have at least ONCE in your life mucked about with the basic Windows Paint program ((or whatever default paint program there is on a MAC)); ergo ((XD)) there is no need for you to have a spaz attack when you click the "eraser" icon and find that your curser has changed into a hovering circle ((I am also going to presume you know what an "icon" is. If not, I think you better take a walk)). That being said, open your program and the picture of your choice ((please don't make me get THAT basic)) and, before you do anything else, make sure all your toolbars are viewable ((right click < Toolbars < [all the ones you haven't got open yet])). Yes, even the ones you're not going to use in this tut. Get used to them being there on your screen; you may very well end up using them someday, and it's best to have them all on the ready than to have a frantic fit later on trying to find each one. Also, open up your palattes ((right click < Palettes < [what you haven't got open yet])) The most important one you need for this is called "Layers", which can be ((also)) accessed by pressing F8 on your keyboard ((for PSP7 users it's also accessible by clicking an icon of a red square overlapping a blue one? Something like that?)). Your Layers palette should appear under your Materials palette on the right hand side ((click me)).
To make things easier for me I usually drag the Layers Palette ((I often call the Layers Palette a Layers Table in my tuts, just so you know)) into the working area ((that would be the dark grey area seen in the diagram above)). The Layers Table Palette is the only place where I know how to "select" a layer ((explained soon)), plus it saves time from going to the Layers drop bar in the menu bar and so forth ((that's not to say don't go to the Layers drop bar EVER; but for the purpose of this tutorial I only need "even numbered degrees of opacity" [again, more later], so I'll firstly show you how to work form the Layers Palette. If you want to know about the drop down bar, for layers it's under "Layers" in the menu [well ... yes]. The guide shall show you the way, tally-ho!)).
Now, one of the problems with black and white pictures is that some of them have a low colour depth. What does that mean? If you decided just to randomly scribble on your pic with a coloured brush just to release the Beginner's Hype ((which can always be undone by clicking the Undo arrow [please tell me you know what that looks like])), and yet when you went to select a colour a palette of black, grey and white squares was thrust in your face, that means you can only work with black grey and white ((otherwise known as a low colour depth)). DON'T PANIC. Go to Image < Increase Colour Depth ((yes I'm aware it's an American English program, however I'm Australian English, so I'll spell it with a "u" - unless someone suffers from a severe heart attack [Holy Grail, anyone?] from being unable to find the selction due to one letter's spelling difference, I'm keeping the "u")), then select which of the colour depths you want ((click me <-- Link busted)). I generally go for the 16 Million Colours (24 bit) option. If, though, you're capable of scribbling colour onto your black and white pic as soon as you open it, then you don't have to worry about the colour depth.
BTW, I'm using this pic of Alan Rickman found on this site
, because
A) It's Alan Rickman
B) It's black and white, which is what we need for this tutorial
C) The area I want to use can easily be cropped to 100 x 100 without resizing ((explained in next paragraph)), and
D) It's Alan Rickman
Now, cropping and resizing. In PSP7 I have no idea on how to use the crop tool ((I tried PSP7 on my sister's computer and got stuck)), so I won't be able to explain how it works in that program. I'm generally fortunate enough to choose pictures that don't need much resizing - if any at all - when I crop it ((such as the picture used for this tut)), however if you're working with a larger photo / picture / screen cap ((whatever)), it may be best if you read this first (( click me)). You're lucky to see this as a beginner; I learnt of this after making a ton of non-changeable icons *sighs*. So, hopefully you would have read the entry in the link, or at least know about cropping and resizing if you're not a beginner; let's just basically run through it anyhow. Select the section you want to crop, with the Maintain Aspect Ratio square ticked, double click on the area in order to crop. If the area you want to have cropped is at 100 x 100 already, you don't need to resize ((click me <-- Link busted)). If you need to resize, go to Image < Resize and then alter the numbers so that the "blue numbers" are at 100 x 100 ((click me <-- Link busted)). If you can't get it exactly to 100 x 100, then just chose the next size up ((this can be anything, like 101, 102, 105, whatever it says; don't go into the 90s, it's not needed for this tutorial)). Then go to Image < Canvas Size and make it 100 x 100 ((click me <-- Link busted)). If you've had to go a few pixels above 100 ((say it went to 102 for example)) then when you change the canvas size you'll lose a pixel or two along the sides ((but don't panic, you've still got your image, right?)). Once you've set the canvas go back to Image < Resize and set it to 100 x 100.
SAVE YOUR IMAGE BEFORE YOUR COMPUTER EXPLODES
NOW FOR THE COLOURING! YAAAAAAAY!
Remember how I said I dragged out my Layers Table Palette? ((Old habits die hard ... And all the Rickman fans go ... XD)) The following tutorial is written based on the Layers Palette being in the working area, and not in the right-hand bar. I'm going to show you an alternate method for a part of the colouring process in the section marked *NOTE, and I'm also going to tell you there why I chose NOT to go by that method.
Now that you have your cropped and resized image, you can go about colouring it. In your Layers Palette, right click on the bar labelled Background, select New Raster Layer, and OK. In your Layers Palette a new layer should appear called Raster 1 ((click me <-- Link busted)). Now select your Fill Colour tool ((click me <-- Link busted)), and click the Foreground square in the Materials palette ((click me <-- Link busted)). Your curser should look like an eyedropper when it's hovered over the Foreground ((and Background)) square((s)). When you click it a colour window called Material Properties should appear and in the box where it says HTML: type in #f6dbd6 ** ((click me <-- Link busted)). Now that you have that colour selected in your Fill Colour tool, click on your image. This should immediately make your picture look like a square of peach ((of sorts ... ish)). Now, in the Layers Palette click on the little black arrow to the right of the bar that says Normal, select Multiply. In the bar to the right of the little eye move the arrows to the left so that the number reads 20 . This means that Raster 1 - filled with the pale peachy colour - is set to Multiply 20%; the percent meaning Opacity ((click me <-- Link busted)). You image should look peachy XD. Now, you can chose to start erasing all the areas you don't want coloured, however I waited until the other two colours for the skin were set; your choice. The other two colours are inserted in the same process, only they have different blendings and opacity settings. Here's what you should have for each of the 3 layers for the skin:
Skin
Raster 1: #f6dbd6, Multiply 20%
Raster 2: #f6d6e8, Colour 40%
Raster 3: #f6f0d6, Colour 58%
I chose those colours because in most pictures they're reflected as skin colours. It may look a bit odd now but of course we haven't finished yet.
Now that you've got the 3 colours in, it's time to duplicate the base ((oh tremble XD)). In your Layers Palette, right click on Background and select Duplicate. A new bar will appear called "Copy of Background". Click and drag that to the top, so it's sitting on top of Raster 3. Then set the Duplicted Base to Lighten 100% ((click me <-- Link busted))
NOW I chose to start erasing all the parts that aren't skin. Your eraser tool should be on the left side, and you should have the default circle for it. For larger areas I set the brush size to 22. For medium areas I use size 11. For the tedious outlines I use sizes 5, 3 and 2 ((click me <-- Link busted)). If - when you start erasing the background - you can't really see if the eraser tool is doing its job, set the duplicated base layer to another setting temporarily, like Screen. I chose to erase all the large areas from each layer first, then move on to a smaller brush, and so forth. Erasing the top layer ((your duplicated base)) is easy. To get to the other layers, you need only click the bars marked "Raster" whatever. Try going down the list; do the large bit in the duplicated base, then click on Raster 3 and erase in the same areas, then Raster 2 < Raster 1. Then move on to the size 11 and do the process again. Once you've finished erasing set your duplicated base layer back on Lighten.
et voila! Skin! It's important to evenly level out the peach, pink and yellow. One degree out of place and you could get it too orange, too pink, even too yellow. And it's important to have that duplicated layer in there because it helps to soften the blow of the colours.
Now that you know how to do the skin, the hair and the tie is coloured in the same process. Here's what you need:
HairRaster 4: #251a19, Colour 72%
Raster 5: #433833, Colour 78%
Raster 6: #3f2820, Colour 36%
Duplicated Base: Luminance (Legacy) ((or "(L)")) 100%
Tie
Raster 7: #e42c28, Colour 34%
Raster 8: #ec4454, Colour 32%
Raster 9: #ff374f, Colour 18%
Duplicated Base: Luminance (L) 100%
Now to darken the picture, add one more Raster Layer on top of your third Duplicated Base, fill it with black and set to Overlay 36%. Your Layers Palette should be extremely long by now ((click me <-- Link busted)) ...
....................................................................................................
*NOTE
As promised, the alterior method ((wow, I'm so drunk with weariness I can't even see what I'm writing; lucky I can type with my eyes closed but please forgive any spelling errors I make)). This has mainly to do with the method of filling in the colours ((as I'm tired and I don't think I need to explore going through the menu bar to add layers and adjust the opacity; leave that for another tutorial)). Now it may seem like a good idea to put in your first colour, erase the background, then duplicate the raster layer and fill in the coloured sections with the next colour ((and so on)), however ... it's not. The reason is that despite the natural light and dark dimensions of the picture, following this mentioned method will still make the colours look clumped. Blocked. El Fako. My method in the tutorial may be tedious, but making icons IS. And the hand never follows the exact same trail twice - unless you're blimmin' fantastic with the steadiest hands in the world. Some parts along the "edges" in each layer will remain, some won't, which then starts to blend the colours together ... well ... maybe not blend, but it adds diversity to the tones of the outlines, instead of making it look like some Gumby made. Kay?
....................................................................................................
** PS Users look here
Raster 1
Red: 246
Green: 219
Blue: 214
Raster 2
Red: 246
Green: 214
Blue: 232
Raster 3
Red: 246
Green: 240
Blue: 214
Raster 4
Red: 37
Green: 26
Blue: 25
Raster 5
Red: 67
Green: 56
Blue: 51
Raster 6
Red: 63
Green: 40
Blue: 32
Raster 7
Red: 228
Green: 44
Blue: 40
Raster 8
Red: 236
Green: 68
Blue: 84
Raster 9
Red: 255
Green: 55
Blue: 79
....................................................................................................
All right. Now you know how to colour a black and white picture. The next step is finding textures and brushes to decorate your icon with, if you choose to. I suggest you look in LJ communites like 100x00_brushes, 100x100_textures, and so forth. I hope you like the colouring and I hope you understood the tutorial despite its length ... Please excuse me, I need to grab a cuppa and faint.
PS: The icons I made using this tutorial, in the order I made them in:
((yeah the 3rd one was just testing if the colour worked on other black and white pics. I seem to have murdered a classic Anthony Warlow pic. PLEASE FORGIVE ME!!))