In The Land of Fire & Ice
As promised, an illustrated chronicle of my (our) trip to Iceland. Sarah's full gallery (including our time in England) is available on Flickr and I'll be posting highlights to Facebook eventually.
Thursday
Our journey began on trains to Paddington and Heathrow and a long time in Terminal 1 waiting for them to announce the gate. Flight left late, but we finally arrived in Keflavik, grabbed our bags and FlyBus to the main bus terminal where we caught a cab to our apartment. The evening concluded with a nice wander down the main shopping street, Thai food (because duh), and a quick stop at a grocery store to pick up breakfast and basics for the kitchen (including skyr. Lots and lots of skyr).
Friday
Our first full day in Iceland began with a trip to The Blue Lagoon on the Reykjanes peninsula, where we enjoyed swimming in the nice warm geothermal waters, slathering our faces with silica mud, steaming ourselves in a cave-like sauna, and standing under the waterfall for massage. Not to worry, though; it wasn't all spa-like. Attempting to comb my hair (even with the conditioner they provided) was quite trying. I know, can't you just hear the tragic violins in the background?
Returning to the city, the bus dropped us off downtown where we found ourselves confronted from two sides by small Icelandic children marching in lines with what looked to be picket signs. This was, however, a far cry from the gay pride parades we've often accidentally stumbled upon in Europe (the most surprising of these was back in 2003, in San Sebastian Spain, the capital of Basque country) After some investigation, we learned that it was a demonstration for the United Nations Children's Day. It is, apparently, an annual tradition in Iceland for primary school students to leave their classrooms and parade outside proclaiming through spoken and written word, their right to be children and enjoy childhood. Even without being able to read their signs, I think that is a cause I can support.
Saturday
Our second full day in the country was perhaps the most Iceland-tastic day of all. Following some confusion on the part of the bus driver, we were successfully ferried from our apartment to Íshestar, one of the two major equestrian tour companies. I myself haven't been on a horse in about two decades, and even then it was a quick circle around a...paddock, maybe? I dunno. But Sarah, having learned to ride at quite a young age, was eager to acquaint herself with the unique characteristics of the Icelandic horse, and so, off we went for a 90-minute ride across the lava fields, stopping halfway for a cool refreshing drink from the babbling mountain stream.
Best quote of the day, from the liability waiver: "Do not shout or scream at any time. Shouting and screaming startles the horses, but remember that they love to hear you sing."
Following the ride, we hopped on yet another bus to tour the Golden Circle, on which we saw Strokkur (the great active geyser near the now-dormant namesake of all geysers, Geysir), Gullfoss (the golden waterfall--not really sure what makes it golden), and Þingvellir (the site of Alþingi, the first democratic parliament, and the divide between the North American and Eurasian continental plates--apparently they decided to move the parliament after it fell one meter in a single night). If you don't mind tilting your head to the side, you can see my video of Strokkur here.
Sunday and Monday
The next two days were spent exploring Reykjavík proper, thanks in part to the city's welcome card, which provides bus fare and museum admission for the duration of the card's validity. We went to the National Museum, the Settlement Museum (amusingly named 871±2), the National Gallery, and Perlan, where we got the first of two 360º views over the city. The second came from the church tower (Hallgrímskirkja) off the main street. Both the view and the organ were lovely. Monday mid-day we did as the Icelanders do and visited Laugardalur, one of the city's geothermal pools, before visiting a bakery the guidebook told us would be full of "cake porn." Though tasty, it did not quite live up to its pornographic promise. However, if every lunch break could be like that--a few laps, a few trips down what might possibly be the most awesome water slide ever, and a nice soak in a hot pot--well, I'd be an awfully happy girl. At one point while I was swimming I looked up and noticed the air temperature around me: 0ºC. Not bad. Nor was our Sunday night dinner at Kitchen Eldhús, an excellent Nepalese/Indian restaurant found after our original dining plan fell through. (Note to self: perhaps call a restaurant before trekking across the city to dine there?) Service and food were both excellent. Another highlight of our "downtown" (really, it was up a rather large hill) adventures was the audio tour Sarah had downloaded for her iPod--we listened to it as we walked around the "Neighborhood of the Gods," a part of the city where all the streets are named for Norse deities and the houses are oh-so-historic. Perhaps a little heavy on mythology (complete with cheesy sound effects!) relative to the discussion of architecture, but not bad for a free download!
Tuesday
Tuesday morning we met up with Gummi ("G-U-M-M-I," he told us, "like the bears") who would be our guide for our grand snorkeling adventure in Þingvallavatn. The Silfra fissure is a particular result of aforementioned continental drift and was filled with rocks, algae, and other underwater sights (note: link goes to the tour company's slide show and will change the size of your browser window). I think we may have spent as much time getting our gear on as we did in the water, but it was crystal clear and a toasty 3ºC. I think everyone in our party climbed out of the water with lost feeling in a different body part (mine was my left hand) but overall, the many layers of clothing (a thermal puffy suit, a rafting over-suit, neoprene hood, gloves, shoes, etc.) kept us plenty warm. Still, if ever a morning called for grilled cheese and tomato soup for lunch, that was it. Another quick run into town, a nice leisurely lounge about the apartment, and then it was time for Icelandic fish and chips for dinner. Perhaps our time in the chip shop left us smelling a bit fishy, or perhaps Icelanders have some sort of affinity for feline protectors, but we were accompanied home in succession by two very friendly cats.
Wednesday
Our last full day in the country was spent in neighboring towns on opposite sides of the city. We took a long and windy (VERY windy) walk around the Seltjarnarnes penninsula, and finished our day at Árbæjarlaug, another geothermal pool. This one took a little longer to get to than the first, so the sun had set by the time we finally got ourselves showered and into the pools. However, there is something to be said for sitting in a hot pot, gazing up at stars and a waxing crescent moon in the cold Arctic air.
Thursday
Our flight back was fairly uneventful, despite being seated across the aisle from each other in the last row. This meant that we couldn't share headphones to watch Torchwood together (we're a few episodes into Season 2) and also that each of us got sat upon by rather large Icelandic people while they were waiting in line for the bathroom behind us. When we got home, we collapsed on the couch, failed to order pizza (shockingly enough, no one's really open on Thanksgiving), and successfully ordered Indian food (fourth time in two weeks for me, third for Sarah!). And then...sleep. Well, after we ate the Indian food, that is.
All in all, a lovely holiday in a lovely country. We had packed for wind and rain, but were blessed with sunny skies pretty much every day. Daytime temperatures ranged from lower thirties to mid-forties, hovering around the upper thirties for most of the trip. The very short span of daylight (about 6 hours) meant that the angle of the sun in the sky resulted in attractive light and/or clouds for almost all of those 6 hours (and into the twilight and dawn beyond). Though the sulfuric smell in the shower did take some getting used to, I'm generally a fan of this readily-available hot water thing. Plus, the mineral-rich cold tap water was divine (Sarah threatened to fill the suitcase with it). It was good to have an apartment with a kitchen and we got by just fine without a car. I think I'd get one next time so I could spend more time exploring other parts of the country (volcanoes! glaciers!) and maybe even venturing out to search for aurorae. However, the bus/shuttle/tour services were very efficient and so, for a first foray into the so-called land of fire and ice, I give it two be-gloved thumbs up. Well done, Iceland; well done, McMonkeypants.
Thursday
Our journey began on trains to Paddington and Heathrow and a long time in Terminal 1 waiting for them to announce the gate. Flight left late, but we finally arrived in Keflavik, grabbed our bags and FlyBus to the main bus terminal where we caught a cab to our apartment. The evening concluded with a nice wander down the main shopping street, Thai food (because duh), and a quick stop at a grocery store to pick up breakfast and basics for the kitchen (including skyr. Lots and lots of skyr).
Friday
Our first full day in Iceland began with a trip to The Blue Lagoon on the Reykjanes peninsula, where we enjoyed swimming in the nice warm geothermal waters, slathering our faces with silica mud, steaming ourselves in a cave-like sauna, and standing under the waterfall for massage. Not to worry, though; it wasn't all spa-like. Attempting to comb my hair (even with the conditioner they provided) was quite trying. I know, can't you just hear the tragic violins in the background?
Returning to the city, the bus dropped us off downtown where we found ourselves confronted from two sides by small Icelandic children marching in lines with what looked to be picket signs. This was, however, a far cry from the gay pride parades we've often accidentally stumbled upon in Europe (the most surprising of these was back in 2003, in San Sebastian Spain, the capital of Basque country) After some investigation, we learned that it was a demonstration for the United Nations Children's Day. It is, apparently, an annual tradition in Iceland for primary school students to leave their classrooms and parade outside proclaiming through spoken and written word, their right to be children and enjoy childhood. Even without being able to read their signs, I think that is a cause I can support.
Saturday
Our second full day in the country was perhaps the most Iceland-tastic day of all. Following some confusion on the part of the bus driver, we were successfully ferried from our apartment to Íshestar, one of the two major equestrian tour companies. I myself haven't been on a horse in about two decades, and even then it was a quick circle around a...paddock, maybe? I dunno. But Sarah, having learned to ride at quite a young age, was eager to acquaint herself with the unique characteristics of the Icelandic horse, and so, off we went for a 90-minute ride across the lava fields, stopping halfway for a cool refreshing drink from the babbling mountain stream.
Best quote of the day, from the liability waiver: "Do not shout or scream at any time. Shouting and screaming startles the horses, but remember that they love to hear you sing."
Following the ride, we hopped on yet another bus to tour the Golden Circle, on which we saw Strokkur (the great active geyser near the now-dormant namesake of all geysers, Geysir), Gullfoss (the golden waterfall--not really sure what makes it golden), and Þingvellir (the site of Alþingi, the first democratic parliament, and the divide between the North American and Eurasian continental plates--apparently they decided to move the parliament after it fell one meter in a single night). If you don't mind tilting your head to the side, you can see my video of Strokkur here.
Sunday and Monday
The next two days were spent exploring Reykjavík proper, thanks in part to the city's welcome card, which provides bus fare and museum admission for the duration of the card's validity. We went to the National Museum, the Settlement Museum (amusingly named 871±2), the National Gallery, and Perlan, where we got the first of two 360º views over the city. The second came from the church tower (Hallgrímskirkja) off the main street. Both the view and the organ were lovely. Monday mid-day we did as the Icelanders do and visited Laugardalur, one of the city's geothermal pools, before visiting a bakery the guidebook told us would be full of "cake porn." Though tasty, it did not quite live up to its pornographic promise. However, if every lunch break could be like that--a few laps, a few trips down what might possibly be the most awesome water slide ever, and a nice soak in a hot pot--well, I'd be an awfully happy girl. At one point while I was swimming I looked up and noticed the air temperature around me: 0ºC. Not bad. Nor was our Sunday night dinner at Kitchen Eldhús, an excellent Nepalese/Indian restaurant found after our original dining plan fell through. (Note to self: perhaps call a restaurant before trekking across the city to dine there?) Service and food were both excellent. Another highlight of our "downtown" (really, it was up a rather large hill) adventures was the audio tour Sarah had downloaded for her iPod--we listened to it as we walked around the "Neighborhood of the Gods," a part of the city where all the streets are named for Norse deities and the houses are oh-so-historic. Perhaps a little heavy on mythology (complete with cheesy sound effects!) relative to the discussion of architecture, but not bad for a free download!
Tuesday
Tuesday morning we met up with Gummi ("G-U-M-M-I," he told us, "like the bears") who would be our guide for our grand snorkeling adventure in Þingvallavatn. The Silfra fissure is a particular result of aforementioned continental drift and was filled with rocks, algae, and other underwater sights (note: link goes to the tour company's slide show and will change the size of your browser window). I think we may have spent as much time getting our gear on as we did in the water, but it was crystal clear and a toasty 3ºC. I think everyone in our party climbed out of the water with lost feeling in a different body part (mine was my left hand) but overall, the many layers of clothing (a thermal puffy suit, a rafting over-suit, neoprene hood, gloves, shoes, etc.) kept us plenty warm. Still, if ever a morning called for grilled cheese and tomato soup for lunch, that was it. Another quick run into town, a nice leisurely lounge about the apartment, and then it was time for Icelandic fish and chips for dinner. Perhaps our time in the chip shop left us smelling a bit fishy, or perhaps Icelanders have some sort of affinity for feline protectors, but we were accompanied home in succession by two very friendly cats.
Wednesday
Our last full day in the country was spent in neighboring towns on opposite sides of the city. We took a long and windy (VERY windy) walk around the Seltjarnarnes penninsula, and finished our day at Árbæjarlaug, another geothermal pool. This one took a little longer to get to than the first, so the sun had set by the time we finally got ourselves showered and into the pools. However, there is something to be said for sitting in a hot pot, gazing up at stars and a waxing crescent moon in the cold Arctic air.
Thursday
Our flight back was fairly uneventful, despite being seated across the aisle from each other in the last row. This meant that we couldn't share headphones to watch Torchwood together (we're a few episodes into Season 2) and also that each of us got sat upon by rather large Icelandic people while they were waiting in line for the bathroom behind us. When we got home, we collapsed on the couch, failed to order pizza (shockingly enough, no one's really open on Thanksgiving), and successfully ordered Indian food (fourth time in two weeks for me, third for Sarah!). And then...sleep. Well, after we ate the Indian food, that is.
All in all, a lovely holiday in a lovely country. We had packed for wind and rain, but were blessed with sunny skies pretty much every day. Daytime temperatures ranged from lower thirties to mid-forties, hovering around the upper thirties for most of the trip. The very short span of daylight (about 6 hours) meant that the angle of the sun in the sky resulted in attractive light and/or clouds for almost all of those 6 hours (and into the twilight and dawn beyond). Though the sulfuric smell in the shower did take some getting used to, I'm generally a fan of this readily-available hot water thing. Plus, the mineral-rich cold tap water was divine (Sarah threatened to fill the suitcase with it). It was good to have an apartment with a kitchen and we got by just fine without a car. I think I'd get one next time so I could spend more time exploring other parts of the country (volcanoes! glaciers!) and maybe even venturing out to search for aurorae. However, the bus/shuttle/tour services were very efficient and so, for a first foray into the so-called land of fire and ice, I give it two be-gloved thumbs up. Well done, Iceland; well done, McMonkeypants.