In an attempt to get to know the KCI jacket a little better (so I'll at least know what it should look like before I deviate from it ;), I've been pouring over the great zoom in function on the
KCI website to get up close and personal with my new friend.
Here are some points of interest:
There's no side seam visible, meaning the front will have to be patterned to go quite far back. This isn't unusual in 18th C clothing.
A cute stitch shows where the outer fabric and lining has been joined, telling us about the construction.
The cuff is really pretty, and makes me a little nervous trying to figure it out, but I guess I'll have to mock it up until I get something resembling the original.
The collar is pinked and scalloped, it will probably need fraychecking. It has a seam half way up to the shoulder. The way it looks slightly torn between the two pieces of the collar, and the lines of the stripes makes me think that the collar's been cut as one with the bodice up to the seam. I'll have to do a scale test to see if that's possible.
A close-up of the silver-coloured buttons, need to find something like it.
And here's my biggest conundrum - the back. As far as I know there are no pictures of the back of this jacket, please tell me if you know of any!
It looks like the back's laying very fat to the skirt and is just one rounded point, but it's described as a pierrot, and those usually have a flared peplum like
this one or
this one.
However,
here's one that seems like it would lie quite flat. It's buttoned up and has got a collar not totally unlike the KCI jacket and is from 1785, so around the same time. The peplum might be sewn shut or it might have boxpleats in the back, I seem to see some brown curves from the lining at the bottom but I'm not quite sure.
Here at
mme_du_jard's flickr I found a real a gem though, a pierrot with views from all angles! And in the side view the back looks identical to the KCI! It's got a very similar collar to the KCI jacket too, even with the same seam placement halfway up the shoulder. And from the
back view you can see that even though it lies flat, it has an intricate pleating in the peplum! The only discrepancy is that the
peplum side seems to be cut apart from the bodice, which it looks like the KCI isn't, but I'm hoping that's just a matter of adjustment.
I can't decide whether to make that kind of intricate peplum or play safe with a rounded point.
But either way - I'm loving my jacket more the more I drool look at it =)