The End is Nigh
Things have gone by so quickly. Its verging on six and a half months and its gone by in a flash. I've tied up all loose nds at work and that side is finished apart from evaluation and debrief.
I've met so many people, made so many friends, even made friends I don't recognise. Seriously they come up to me, say hi, and maybe they're a Bajaj driver who drove me home once upon a time or a random guy from a group of people you laughed at for supporting Arsenal. Goes to show learning a few basics in the language really helps improve your acceptance with the locals (words to know: Hello, thank you, please, yes, no, 1, 2, 3, goodbye - I know many more than that but those are essential for not passing as an ignorant foreigner, so note them down if you're likely to go abroad anytime ever!). However the greetings have sadly turned into an endless stream of goodbyes this week as many of my colleagues dissapear into the field. Every time it has been an emotional experience. I've enjoyed my time here far more than I ever could have expected, mainly due to the people I met. Every single one I've had significant interaction with has left an impression on me and for that I'm truly grateful. Ethiopia is an amazing country and I strongly recommend anyone reading this visits it. So, a few things I feel the need to communicate:
Culture:
It's a total cliche, but Ethiopia so rich in culture! It seems to stem from the ethnic differences in each region and it creates a huge tapestry of differences be it in dress, language, music and dancing or socio-economic status. Having lived in SNNPR (Southern Nations Nationalities and People's Region), basically a mix of 53 different cultures I can honestly say I've been bombarded by subtle variants of greater Ethiopia. However some regional peculiarities are less subtle than others. Going by nationally accepted stereotypes the Afar are exceptionally violent and wouldn't think twice at putting you down with an AK47 because you glanced at then the wrong way; the Gurage have an excellent business sense the consequence of which is serious penny-counting; the Oromo are a repressed majority, a ticking time bomb to revolution; the Hariri are brash and impetuous and will shout and brood when things do not go their way... there are so many. Though the current political system imposes a policy of divide and rule there is an inherent harmony that binds them together. It can be something inane like the love for Teddy Afro, a singer universally loved by the people, disliked by the establishment for mild criticism in his songs and who is now rotting in a cell for having killed someone by hitting them with a car (which is strongly suspected to be fabricated for political reasons); or it can also be the pride of having been the only African country to have avoided colonisation. Italy invaded in 1936 and were thrown out in 1941, but the country never capitulated and the expulsion of the Italians is something that Ethiopians are immensely proud of (not that Italy has achieved much since the Roman Empire but still, a major feat). This may mean they have missed out on the benefits such as improved infrastructure, trade and western political systems, but it has enormously benefited them in terms of heritage, and so much so that they frequently consider themselves separate from the rest of Africa. It's understandable, considering the domination by the west of African countries, the associations of poverty, they want their independence from these concepts. And in their minds they have succeeded and that is enough.
Politics:
The north was always the rich area with access to the seas, the African coast and the Arabian peninsula the empire was built on trade. This wealthy regional superpower was well placed to repel invaders and expand their influence. We never learn these sorts of story in Europe, but did you know Emperor Haile Selassie sent cash to Churchill for for reconstruction of England after the second world war? He strongly favoured the Amharra region, hence Amharic becoming the national language and was worshiped as a god in his home country and also in Jamaica for supposedly bringing them rain with his visit. Things moved on and he was eventually deposed which paved the way for the Derg regime, a brutally oppressive communist regime led by Mengistu, who saw no ethnic differences among his people but had no hesitation in killing anyone who stood in his way, or stifling knowledge of famine in his country. Various socialist factions split off from the party and the Tigray Liberation Front (TLF) rebranded as the Ethiopian People's Revolutionary Democratic Front (EPRDF) eventually struggled to power under President Meles. Under him the country has no doubt developed and capitalist elements have seeped into the political landscape but the country remains heavily centralised. Electricity, water, phone networks, airlines and TV all remain under national control. Land can only be purchased with government sanction and the ballot box is a joke. During the 2005 elections Meles opened up, seemingly accepting democracy and the will of the people, but once the results came in they were falsified and his backers forced a brutal repression of demonstrators demanding that the government make way for the actual winners of the election, most of whom are now in prison or exile. A charismatic and smart man, Meles seems to be trapped by those that seek to profit from their position of power. Bitter feuds with many of Ethiopia's neighbours such as Eritrea, Somalia and Sudan are not helping the country's development and increasing isolation.
Food:
Injera. That is the staple food. Made from tef which is sour and has a high iron content it resembles a crepe upon which the main course is laid. That can take the shape of tibs (beef), doro wat (chicken), alicha or kay wat (goat or sheep) amongst others, but it is nearly always there. Food is eaten without cutlery and taking from another's side of the plate is considered very rude. Toothpicks are usually supplied at the end and considered an integral part to the meal. Another delicacy is Tre Sega (raw meat). Whether in chunks of muscle and fat or minced into kitfo which is often mixed with cabbage and soft cheese it is an absolute favourite in Ethiopia. Farengi food (or foreign food) is available in most cities, but not massively prevalent. Whereas you can get chips in any restaurant in Europe, you have about 10% chance of getting them in any trendy place in Ethiopia. There is no fast food here, not one McDonald's, not one Burger King. Rumour has it KFC will open a branch in Addis Abeba soon.
Entertainment:
Western music is around, but it has not strongly penetrated the markets here. You can hear Shakira or 50 cent sometimes in bars and clubs, but the individual Ethiopian will nearly always opt for "cultural music", of which there are many regional variants. Often it's based on a reggae beat, with many great singers such as Eyob, Zeritu, Johnny Ragga and Aster, but many other types exist. I have sat in a room listening to what can only be described as a bard, twiddling away on a single-string violin making up funny stories about the people listening to him. I have also been brutally awoken by "fasting music" blaring from the radio which sounds like an old man painfully mumbling to the sound of a cat being skinned alive. Tigray music, popular for shoulder dances, has the most repetitive beat and rapidly gets boring... well for me at least. Dancing is very common and looks more like a mating ritual than any of the supposed sexy dances performed by Beyonce or Maria Carey. Though the TV often shows people in jeans and shirts or leather jackets awkwardly shuffling in a circle occasionally raising their shoulders and swaying, well-performed Ethiopian dances with accompanying traditional dress demonstrate a particular kind of beauty I have rarely seen. Hips are used but generally the upper body is most active (including hair for women) and is unlike anything I've ever seen. Joints jolting from one extreme to the other is the only way I can describe it, but once used to it, it acquires a certain grace. I think the shoulder dancing is meant to make the boobs jump up and down whilst flashing the Orthodox cross in your face so that you have a frustratingly enticing desire which you know will never be fulfilled. A very effective seduction technique.
Religion:
People here have a deep-rooted faith that seemingly cannot be undermined. The dominant religion is Orthodox Christian, and whereas in Europe the word "creationism" tends to raise eyebrows, here the label is worn as a badge of honour. The churches are adorned with paintings of saints and angels all in vivid colours (but rarely gold or silver like Greek or Russian Orthodox), and the people really know their Bible. Whereas it'd be difficult to get most Brits to name 10 stories from the Bible, people here are more likely to debate their 10 favorites. For someone like me who has fallen into a faith-full yet religious-less abyss, it has been humbling to encounter such adherence to religious scripture.
Relationships:
Relationships is a strange issue. I jokingly comment that there are two types of Ethiopian: the married and the "durie demet" (literally translated Durie Demet means "Bad Cat" because the cat goes from house to house fucking all the other cats), but it is surprising to me that in such an ardently religious country such behaviour is not only tolerated but common place. Most of the (unmarried and post-pubescent) men I have met have no qualms in cheating on their girlfriends, or maintaining multiple relationships. It seems a tad hypocritical. On the women's side sex seems to be a business. It seems to be more common than not for foreigners (and many Ethiopians) to pay for sex, sometimes even from an educated well-to-do lady. Bar ladies prowl the regular hang-outs such as clubs and bars promising "happy endings" for beer and money. Even one of my workmates acts that way. It is a crying shame as Ethiopian women are true to the stereotype and generally stunning. However any beauty they have is often lost by their own self-objectification. I have experienced this first hand many times and have never taken it up and not just for the fear of HIV/AIDS. Husband and wife relationships are very traditional. Mostly characterised by male dominance, with the often uneducated wife cleaning, cooking and caring for children, whilst the man earns money and generally has less responsibility and more fun, it strongly reminds me of history classes about the 16th century. Not that I am saying that that Ethiopia is backward, just that responsibilty is more shared in western society. I had it taught to me that women were less empowered and played less of a role than men within society, but a discussion with a Spaniard made me think otherwise. While it is true that the wife has less fun, more duties, less cash and less authority she underpins the family. Without her, the family would disappear into a dark cesspool of starvation. She is the lynchpin of family life, and therein lies her power to maintain society.
Khat:
If you don't know what this is you have obviously NEVER been to Ethiopia, it is a present as the air they breathe and maybe more so than the water they drink. Pronounced "Ch'at" it is a bush of which the leaves and part of the stems are chewed producing a mild stimulant effect. Though nearly every man (and many women) uses it for fun and relaxation, it is commonly associated with students cramming for exams or report writing. Otherwise, it is just a drug. I've tried it many times and it is very helpful for work and can be used sociably. Bear in mind it supposedly causes depression, but hey I've got another 15 days and I'm not gonna miss it particularly. Come down is induced by milk traditionally, but nowadays alcohol is the "Mirkana-breaker" of choice, which a health professional has assured me is really bad for the brain chemistry. And I believe him. Many different strains exist, from the wild and crazy Changue through the everyday Sicke, the tasty Yirba to the rich man's Beleche (only affordable by corrupt traffic police). A fun distraction it often leads to laziness and dependency (when used for productive purposes), but does provide a bonding opportunity with nearby goats as only the softest leaves are chewed leaving plenty of fodder behind.
I've met so many people, made so many friends, even made friends I don't recognise. Seriously they come up to me, say hi, and maybe they're a Bajaj driver who drove me home once upon a time or a random guy from a group of people you laughed at for supporting Arsenal. Goes to show learning a few basics in the language really helps improve your acceptance with the locals (words to know: Hello, thank you, please, yes, no, 1, 2, 3, goodbye - I know many more than that but those are essential for not passing as an ignorant foreigner, so note them down if you're likely to go abroad anytime ever!). However the greetings have sadly turned into an endless stream of goodbyes this week as many of my colleagues dissapear into the field. Every time it has been an emotional experience. I've enjoyed my time here far more than I ever could have expected, mainly due to the people I met. Every single one I've had significant interaction with has left an impression on me and for that I'm truly grateful. Ethiopia is an amazing country and I strongly recommend anyone reading this visits it. So, a few things I feel the need to communicate:
Culture:
It's a total cliche, but Ethiopia so rich in culture! It seems to stem from the ethnic differences in each region and it creates a huge tapestry of differences be it in dress, language, music and dancing or socio-economic status. Having lived in SNNPR (Southern Nations Nationalities and People's Region), basically a mix of 53 different cultures I can honestly say I've been bombarded by subtle variants of greater Ethiopia. However some regional peculiarities are less subtle than others. Going by nationally accepted stereotypes the Afar are exceptionally violent and wouldn't think twice at putting you down with an AK47 because you glanced at then the wrong way; the Gurage have an excellent business sense the consequence of which is serious penny-counting; the Oromo are a repressed majority, a ticking time bomb to revolution; the Hariri are brash and impetuous and will shout and brood when things do not go their way... there are so many. Though the current political system imposes a policy of divide and rule there is an inherent harmony that binds them together. It can be something inane like the love for Teddy Afro, a singer universally loved by the people, disliked by the establishment for mild criticism in his songs and who is now rotting in a cell for having killed someone by hitting them with a car (which is strongly suspected to be fabricated for political reasons); or it can also be the pride of having been the only African country to have avoided colonisation. Italy invaded in 1936 and were thrown out in 1941, but the country never capitulated and the expulsion of the Italians is something that Ethiopians are immensely proud of (not that Italy has achieved much since the Roman Empire but still, a major feat). This may mean they have missed out on the benefits such as improved infrastructure, trade and western political systems, but it has enormously benefited them in terms of heritage, and so much so that they frequently consider themselves separate from the rest of Africa. It's understandable, considering the domination by the west of African countries, the associations of poverty, they want their independence from these concepts. And in their minds they have succeeded and that is enough.
Politics:
The north was always the rich area with access to the seas, the African coast and the Arabian peninsula the empire was built on trade. This wealthy regional superpower was well placed to repel invaders and expand their influence. We never learn these sorts of story in Europe, but did you know Emperor Haile Selassie sent cash to Churchill for for reconstruction of England after the second world war? He strongly favoured the Amharra region, hence Amharic becoming the national language and was worshiped as a god in his home country and also in Jamaica for supposedly bringing them rain with his visit. Things moved on and he was eventually deposed which paved the way for the Derg regime, a brutally oppressive communist regime led by Mengistu, who saw no ethnic differences among his people but had no hesitation in killing anyone who stood in his way, or stifling knowledge of famine in his country. Various socialist factions split off from the party and the Tigray Liberation Front (TLF) rebranded as the Ethiopian People's Revolutionary Democratic Front (EPRDF) eventually struggled to power under President Meles. Under him the country has no doubt developed and capitalist elements have seeped into the political landscape but the country remains heavily centralised. Electricity, water, phone networks, airlines and TV all remain under national control. Land can only be purchased with government sanction and the ballot box is a joke. During the 2005 elections Meles opened up, seemingly accepting democracy and the will of the people, but once the results came in they were falsified and his backers forced a brutal repression of demonstrators demanding that the government make way for the actual winners of the election, most of whom are now in prison or exile. A charismatic and smart man, Meles seems to be trapped by those that seek to profit from their position of power. Bitter feuds with many of Ethiopia's neighbours such as Eritrea, Somalia and Sudan are not helping the country's development and increasing isolation.
Food:
Injera. That is the staple food. Made from tef which is sour and has a high iron content it resembles a crepe upon which the main course is laid. That can take the shape of tibs (beef), doro wat (chicken), alicha or kay wat (goat or sheep) amongst others, but it is nearly always there. Food is eaten without cutlery and taking from another's side of the plate is considered very rude. Toothpicks are usually supplied at the end and considered an integral part to the meal. Another delicacy is Tre Sega (raw meat). Whether in chunks of muscle and fat or minced into kitfo which is often mixed with cabbage and soft cheese it is an absolute favourite in Ethiopia. Farengi food (or foreign food) is available in most cities, but not massively prevalent. Whereas you can get chips in any restaurant in Europe, you have about 10% chance of getting them in any trendy place in Ethiopia. There is no fast food here, not one McDonald's, not one Burger King. Rumour has it KFC will open a branch in Addis Abeba soon.
Entertainment:
Western music is around, but it has not strongly penetrated the markets here. You can hear Shakira or 50 cent sometimes in bars and clubs, but the individual Ethiopian will nearly always opt for "cultural music", of which there are many regional variants. Often it's based on a reggae beat, with many great singers such as Eyob, Zeritu, Johnny Ragga and Aster, but many other types exist. I have sat in a room listening to what can only be described as a bard, twiddling away on a single-string violin making up funny stories about the people listening to him. I have also been brutally awoken by "fasting music" blaring from the radio which sounds like an old man painfully mumbling to the sound of a cat being skinned alive. Tigray music, popular for shoulder dances, has the most repetitive beat and rapidly gets boring... well for me at least. Dancing is very common and looks more like a mating ritual than any of the supposed sexy dances performed by Beyonce or Maria Carey. Though the TV often shows people in jeans and shirts or leather jackets awkwardly shuffling in a circle occasionally raising their shoulders and swaying, well-performed Ethiopian dances with accompanying traditional dress demonstrate a particular kind of beauty I have rarely seen. Hips are used but generally the upper body is most active (including hair for women) and is unlike anything I've ever seen. Joints jolting from one extreme to the other is the only way I can describe it, but once used to it, it acquires a certain grace. I think the shoulder dancing is meant to make the boobs jump up and down whilst flashing the Orthodox cross in your face so that you have a frustratingly enticing desire which you know will never be fulfilled. A very effective seduction technique.
Religion:
People here have a deep-rooted faith that seemingly cannot be undermined. The dominant religion is Orthodox Christian, and whereas in Europe the word "creationism" tends to raise eyebrows, here the label is worn as a badge of honour. The churches are adorned with paintings of saints and angels all in vivid colours (but rarely gold or silver like Greek or Russian Orthodox), and the people really know their Bible. Whereas it'd be difficult to get most Brits to name 10 stories from the Bible, people here are more likely to debate their 10 favorites. For someone like me who has fallen into a faith-full yet religious-less abyss, it has been humbling to encounter such adherence to religious scripture.
Relationships:
Relationships is a strange issue. I jokingly comment that there are two types of Ethiopian: the married and the "durie demet" (literally translated Durie Demet means "Bad Cat" because the cat goes from house to house fucking all the other cats), but it is surprising to me that in such an ardently religious country such behaviour is not only tolerated but common place. Most of the (unmarried and post-pubescent) men I have met have no qualms in cheating on their girlfriends, or maintaining multiple relationships. It seems a tad hypocritical. On the women's side sex seems to be a business. It seems to be more common than not for foreigners (and many Ethiopians) to pay for sex, sometimes even from an educated well-to-do lady. Bar ladies prowl the regular hang-outs such as clubs and bars promising "happy endings" for beer and money. Even one of my workmates acts that way. It is a crying shame as Ethiopian women are true to the stereotype and generally stunning. However any beauty they have is often lost by their own self-objectification. I have experienced this first hand many times and have never taken it up and not just for the fear of HIV/AIDS. Husband and wife relationships are very traditional. Mostly characterised by male dominance, with the often uneducated wife cleaning, cooking and caring for children, whilst the man earns money and generally has less responsibility and more fun, it strongly reminds me of history classes about the 16th century. Not that I am saying that that Ethiopia is backward, just that responsibilty is more shared in western society. I had it taught to me that women were less empowered and played less of a role than men within society, but a discussion with a Spaniard made me think otherwise. While it is true that the wife has less fun, more duties, less cash and less authority she underpins the family. Without her, the family would disappear into a dark cesspool of starvation. She is the lynchpin of family life, and therein lies her power to maintain society.
Khat:
If you don't know what this is you have obviously NEVER been to Ethiopia, it is a present as the air they breathe and maybe more so than the water they drink. Pronounced "Ch'at" it is a bush of which the leaves and part of the stems are chewed producing a mild stimulant effect. Though nearly every man (and many women) uses it for fun and relaxation, it is commonly associated with students cramming for exams or report writing. Otherwise, it is just a drug. I've tried it many times and it is very helpful for work and can be used sociably. Bear in mind it supposedly causes depression, but hey I've got another 15 days and I'm not gonna miss it particularly. Come down is induced by milk traditionally, but nowadays alcohol is the "Mirkana-breaker" of choice, which a health professional has assured me is really bad for the brain chemistry. And I believe him. Many different strains exist, from the wild and crazy Changue through the everyday Sicke, the tasty Yirba to the rich man's Beleche (only affordable by corrupt traffic police). A fun distraction it often leads to laziness and dependency (when used for productive purposes), but does provide a bonding opportunity with nearby goats as only the softest leaves are chewed leaving plenty of fodder behind.