Starr Gazing
On Sunday, alycewilson decided that she'd take me out to dinner to the restaurant of my choosing. So, I picked Jones, a restaurant themed around the 70s and comfort food.
Jones doesn't take reservations (after all, that would go against the spirit of comfort food), but we weren't too worried as Sundays aren't real crowded in Philly restaurants. None the less, the restaurant was pretty full, but we were seated right away.
The decor was straight out of the Brady Bunch: deep-stained wood, fieldstone walls, even a cheerful fireplace in the center. The fireplace was surprisingly welcome given the unusually cool weather we had this weekend. Mood lighting was provided for the tables with little night lights that each had a different black-and-white picture. The walls were also decorated with period-looking black-and-white photos.
And the food? The food was just as advertised: comfort food. With a bit of a southern bent. We started out by sharing an appetizer of baked macaroni and cheese. Now, I'm picky about my mac and cheese. I have very fond memories of mac and cheese from my childhood: nice and thick with slightly sharp cheese and baked in a Pyrex baking dish until it's crispy on the top and bottom (the Pyrex is key here). Served with stewed tomatoes, it was a meal that was always looked forward to. I wind up frequently disappointed by others' attempts at mac and cheese. There have a been a few successes, such as Delilah Winders's, and Jones' mac and cheese has joined the ranks. Not quite the same as my dad's, but good, none the less. Creamy, but not soupy, a nice bit of sharpness, and a little bit of crunch from the breadcrumbs on top.
For an entreé, I had chicken and waffles and alycewilson had a pistachio-encrusted tilapia fillet. The chicken was incredible: the coating was nicely spiced, the chicken moist, and the waffles had a nice malty sweetness. Delicious. alycewilson enjoyed her tilapia, which was a huge fillet, the crust flavorful and the sauce a nice, mild citrus. I also had a side of glazed carrots which were a nice, deep orange and sweet. We were tempted by dessert (they have a Duncan Hines chocolate layer cake), we stuck with just coffee. We'd decided to walk up to Capogiro and have gelato instead.
This makes the third Starr restaurant (the others being Pod and The Continental Mid-Town), and I'm starting to see a pattern that contributes to their success. I see the Starr restaurants has having four traits in common:
- Strongly themed. Jones is 70s comfort food. Pod is 60s retro-futuristic (yes, like our wedding). The Continental is 60s/70s lounge. This lends a focus to the food and draws a specific market.
- A composed decor. The restaurants have a decor that is specifically designed to support the food theme and provide an atmosphere that draws you in and sets the stage for the food.
- A friendly, outgoing wait staff. All three restaurants that we've been to have featured a wait staff was was friendly, personable. You don't feel like they're just trying to get through their shift, but that they're really interested in your enjoying yourself.
- A dedication to the old school restaurant experience. Starr restaurants are not where you go when you need to get to a movie or have theater tickets. They're meant to be enjoyed and experienced. Your server will be with you promptly, you'll order your drinks, but the food will come when it comes. I'm not saying it's slow, it's just not rushed. Remember the Country Time lemonade commercials? Yeah, like that.
So, if you find yourself in Philadelphia (or New York City or Atlantic City as there are Buddakans and Morimotos there now) and want to have a fun, good meal and aren't in a hurry, you need to treat yourself to a Starr restaurant.