back from hanoi, sapa, hoi an and ninh binh. i was charmed, fell in love, disappointed, at peace, tired, blissful. we trekked mountain trails, lay on beaches, lived in bamboo villages, drank immaculate rice wine, lapped up cheap bia hoi and the barley quench of bia ha noi, rumbled on trains chasing the red river, tasted goat, pigeon? foetus, and
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