Black V-shaped garment under the early Tudor kirtle.

Jul 21, 2008 18:00

So, I've been looking at various illuminations for early 1500s, late 1400s, trying to figure out what the black garment that is seen in this example image might be. Is it a partlet? Is it an underkirtle? This is something that myladyswardrobe originally brought up in her LJ, but since we both are pondering early 1500s right now, it's been perculating at the back of my brain for a bit since she mentioned it.

So, the images in my little book makes it seem that maybe they are partlets, not the underkirtle which was myladyswardrobe's supposition. I thought kirtles, too... but then I found mc_cadieux's front laced kirtles page being mentioned in another LJ community, and she has a number of images from the mid to late 1400s of kirtles that have a separate skirt attached.

The first image shows a woman wearing an obvious black partlet giving the V-neck shape.
The fourth image shows a woman wearing something black under the kirtle, unclear what it is.
The seventh image shows a black undergarment... that ends just below the waistline, as something white (her smock?) is showing below that point.

This seventh image makes me wonder if in this case it might be a "waist coat" that might be worn? I had read about waist coats in Cunnington's book, but hadn't seen the visual info on it. I need to re-read sections of the Dress... Henry VIII book to see what she mentions about a waist coat. But maybe that a "waist coat" is the third option on these women's images, and needs to be considered.

I don't know if I want to do a waist coat for Hanford RoK, since our temps are usually in the 80s or 90s in early October. I might do a V-necked partlet instead as a compromise, to give the look, but not deal with the heat. Hmmm...

costume, research

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