Been busy with the Tudor kirtle bodice.
Finally am decently happy with the pattern I've drafted for myself, based on the draped sloper I made on my tape body double. I had to shorten the back about an inch, and the front a half inch, but the attached skirts should cover any shortfall should the boned bodice (compared to the 2 unboned mockups) prove to be really too short. I am using The Tudor Tailor and Period Costume for Stage and Screen books as guides for everything, with some mods from their directions or patterns, based on pressumptions I've made from my own research.
For example, I am wondering why the outer gown is the one that has the V-shaped 4-piece back, when I've seen peasant kirtles in illuminations with the V back as well. I know of the sketch from Holbein that shows the back of the gown, that isn't the question. The V back I think provides extra seam lines for shaping, and perhaps a hidden dart, which is what I've incorporated into my kirtle back. It makes more sense to me to have the shaping in the kirtle, not just the gown back. But that's my presumption, and not what is in either book for the kirtle.
I spent last night sewing in all the boning channels for the front piece. I am using one piece of hemp canvas, and one piece cotton drill, then sewing the channels to fit the plastic cable ties, which will give the front a softer look than using all steel. One piece of steel is supposed to go in the center, and that will be cut as soon as I can get some tool dip for the ends. I spent this afternoon cutting, trimming and placing every plastic bone in there. I changed the boning pattern to all verticle pieces, as I wanted less hassle, and my body shape is more vertical than hourglass anymore. If the bones went lower than waist level, I might have done the angled boning, but no sense in the angled channels I thought.
I hope to have the bodice finished by early next Monday. Part of the bodice will be machine sewn, and part will be handsewn. That will take more time, but I am hoping it will give a smoother finish to the front. I will be offline while I do that work, as I've found this computer to take a lot more of my time when it is on, then if I keep it turned off. My sewing room is also a lot hotter while the computer is running, which makes the afternoon in this room even worse as one window faces the afternoon sun.
On a note back to the post of Aug. 14th, the big iron got shipped the next day, with a note in my box so I can follow the shipping progress. I can't wait until it arrives!!
So, now that I've dealt with the builtup e-mails, it is time to sign off and head to bed.
For example, I am wondering why the outer gown is the one that has the V-shaped 4-piece back, when I've seen peasant kirtles in illuminations with the V back as well. I know of the sketch from Holbein that shows the back of the gown, that isn't the question. The V back I think provides extra seam lines for shaping, and perhaps a hidden dart, which is what I've incorporated into my kirtle back. It makes more sense to me to have the shaping in the kirtle, not just the gown back. But that's my presumption, and not what is in either book for the kirtle.
I spent last night sewing in all the boning channels for the front piece. I am using one piece of hemp canvas, and one piece cotton drill, then sewing the channels to fit the plastic cable ties, which will give the front a softer look than using all steel. One piece of steel is supposed to go in the center, and that will be cut as soon as I can get some tool dip for the ends. I spent this afternoon cutting, trimming and placing every plastic bone in there. I changed the boning pattern to all verticle pieces, as I wanted less hassle, and my body shape is more vertical than hourglass anymore. If the bones went lower than waist level, I might have done the angled boning, but no sense in the angled channels I thought.
I hope to have the bodice finished by early next Monday. Part of the bodice will be machine sewn, and part will be handsewn. That will take more time, but I am hoping it will give a smoother finish to the front. I will be offline while I do that work, as I've found this computer to take a lot more of my time when it is on, then if I keep it turned off. My sewing room is also a lot hotter while the computer is running, which makes the afternoon in this room even worse as one window faces the afternoon sun.
On a note back to the post of Aug. 14th, the big iron got shipped the next day, with a note in my box so I can follow the shipping progress. I can't wait until it arrives!!
So, now that I've dealt with the builtup e-mails, it is time to sign off and head to bed.