Iguazu Falls
My alarm went off at 5:15 this morning. I quietly tried to pack the last of my bags and get ready without waking Janine, but since the rule is the quieter you try to be in the morning the more noise you make, Janine woke up anyway. After a quick and sleepy good-bye, I hauled all 4 of my bags downstairs. I checked two of them with the bellman, and then joined Mindy and Heidi in the waiting cab. We got to the airport way too early, but that gave us time to eat breakfast and read magazines.
The flight was quick and uneventful, and by 10am we were in Iguazu. Our friendly cab driver Luis took us to our hotel, and offered to bring us back to the park with a full package of boat rides and national park fun. We weren’t quite sure what our plans were, so we took his card and promised to call him.
At the hotel we had an hour to wait to check in, so we used that time to plan our two days and change clothes for the first day at Iguazu National Park. By the time we made it to the park, it was midday and really hot. We had lunch at a little cafeteria on the premises, and then took the “Green Trail” to the start of the Upper Falls Trail. We only passed a few people on the Green Trail, and they were all going the opposite direction, so we were sure that the park was pretty empty.
We were wrong.
The Green Trail led to the Upper Trail, which gave us our first views of the waterfalls as well as our first views of our fellow park visitors. It was a huge crowd, full of all nationalities and all different types of people - young, old, skinny and not so skinny. It was like visiting Six Flags without the roller coasters. The main attraction, though, are the waterfalls, and they really are impressive. Not because they’re so high, but because there are so many of them, all lined up together. It really was awe-inspiring.
The Falls - Some of them, anyway
Close-Up
Hot Chicas
Gradually it became harder and harder to take pictures due to the crush of visitors and the constant spray flying up on the camera lens. We made it to the end of the Upper Falls Trail, hot and sweaty and saw the line for the train to take us from the Upper Falls Trail to Gargantua del Diablo. The line looked prohibitively long, but surprisingly we (at the end of the line) got on the next train.
It was a hot and muggy train ride, with lots of green on either side, but not much else to see. After about 20 minutes we made it to the next station, from which we had a one mile walk. We walked along the path, first through forest, and then over marsh and rivers. Finally we saw mist rising ahead, and started to hear a distant roar. We came around a corner to see a wide river in front of us, and to one side was the enormous waterfall. Hundreds of gallons of water were plummeting off the side of the cliff with the mist blowing up from the falls. Frequently the wind would shift, and everyone would be hit with waterfall spray; sometimes just a light mist and others an absolute downpour.
Gargantua del Diablo
Heidi and Mindy getting soaked
Walking back we were wet, hot and exhausted. We’d planned another hike, but instead decided to take the train back to the entrance. Mindy and I found ourselves drifting off to sleep on the train, and we all had a hard time staying awake in the cab on the way to the hotel. As soon as we walked into our cool, dark room, Mindy and I collapsed onto our beds and were asleep in seconds. Heidi was the sensible one who actually showered instead of getting into bed stinky from a day hiking in 45C (113F) weather, but I honestly don’t know if I could have kept my eyes open another second.
Refreshed after our almost 2 hour nap, we cleaned ourselves up and went out to the bar for drinks. We sat outside watching the last of the sunset and drinking caprihinias and pina coladas until it was late enough to head out to dinner.
Sunset
Heidi and Mindy and our Cocktails
Heidi’s guidebook recommended El Charo for traditional Argentine parradilla, and it turns out it was a great recommendation. We ate outside and were entertained by the locals and live music from another restaurant down the street. We had a yummy bottle of Malbec that our waiter suggested, and then ordered the parradilla. What we got was a huge tray of meat: pork sausage, pork tenderloin, chicken and beef, as well as several other unidentified objects. One we’re pretty sure was blood sausage; and after the way it looked when we cut into it, none of us were brave enough to try it. We did try the piece of meat that Mindy decided to call “ear”. It was chewy and tough on the outside, and mealy on the inside. After careful consideration we decided we didn’t like it, but we did ask our waiter what it was we ate…and now I can say I’ve tried tripe.
Our Platter of Meat
Our Favorite Bottle of Wine
We were proud of ourselves tonight - we actually ate dinner with the locals, instead of 3 hours before they're even interested in eating!
February 7 - Buenos Aires
February 8 - Buenos Aires to Ushuaia
February 9 - Ushuaia to the Beagle Channel
February 10 - The Drake Passage
February 11 - The Drake Passage to Aitcho Island
February 12 - Half Moon Island and Deception Island
February 13 - The (First) Best Day Ever
February 14 - The (Second) Best Day Ever
February 15 - Blown Out of Penguin Island
February 16 - The Drake Shake
February 17 - The Drake Passage
February 18 - Ushuaia to Buenos Aires
February 19 - Colonia, Uruguay and Buenos Aires
February 21 - Iguazu Falls
February 22 - Buenos Aires
February 23 - Buenos Aires to Home
The flight was quick and uneventful, and by 10am we were in Iguazu. Our friendly cab driver Luis took us to our hotel, and offered to bring us back to the park with a full package of boat rides and national park fun. We weren’t quite sure what our plans were, so we took his card and promised to call him.
At the hotel we had an hour to wait to check in, so we used that time to plan our two days and change clothes for the first day at Iguazu National Park. By the time we made it to the park, it was midday and really hot. We had lunch at a little cafeteria on the premises, and then took the “Green Trail” to the start of the Upper Falls Trail. We only passed a few people on the Green Trail, and they were all going the opposite direction, so we were sure that the park was pretty empty.
We were wrong.
The Green Trail led to the Upper Trail, which gave us our first views of the waterfalls as well as our first views of our fellow park visitors. It was a huge crowd, full of all nationalities and all different types of people - young, old, skinny and not so skinny. It was like visiting Six Flags without the roller coasters. The main attraction, though, are the waterfalls, and they really are impressive. Not because they’re so high, but because there are so many of them, all lined up together. It really was awe-inspiring.
The Falls - Some of them, anyway
Close-Up
Hot Chicas
Gradually it became harder and harder to take pictures due to the crush of visitors and the constant spray flying up on the camera lens. We made it to the end of the Upper Falls Trail, hot and sweaty and saw the line for the train to take us from the Upper Falls Trail to Gargantua del Diablo. The line looked prohibitively long, but surprisingly we (at the end of the line) got on the next train.
Click to viewIt was a hot and muggy train ride, with lots of green on either side, but not much else to see. After about 20 minutes we made it to the next station, from which we had a one mile walk. We walked along the path, first through forest, and then over marsh and rivers. Finally we saw mist rising ahead, and started to hear a distant roar. We came around a corner to see a wide river in front of us, and to one side was the enormous waterfall. Hundreds of gallons of water were plummeting off the side of the cliff with the mist blowing up from the falls. Frequently the wind would shift, and everyone would be hit with waterfall spray; sometimes just a light mist and others an absolute downpour.
Gargantua del Diablo
Heidi and Mindy getting soaked
Walking back we were wet, hot and exhausted. We’d planned another hike, but instead decided to take the train back to the entrance. Mindy and I found ourselves drifting off to sleep on the train, and we all had a hard time staying awake in the cab on the way to the hotel. As soon as we walked into our cool, dark room, Mindy and I collapsed onto our beds and were asleep in seconds. Heidi was the sensible one who actually showered instead of getting into bed stinky from a day hiking in 45C (113F) weather, but I honestly don’t know if I could have kept my eyes open another second.
Refreshed after our almost 2 hour nap, we cleaned ourselves up and went out to the bar for drinks. We sat outside watching the last of the sunset and drinking caprihinias and pina coladas until it was late enough to head out to dinner.
Sunset
Heidi and Mindy and our Cocktails
Heidi’s guidebook recommended El Charo for traditional Argentine parradilla, and it turns out it was a great recommendation. We ate outside and were entertained by the locals and live music from another restaurant down the street. We had a yummy bottle of Malbec that our waiter suggested, and then ordered the parradilla. What we got was a huge tray of meat: pork sausage, pork tenderloin, chicken and beef, as well as several other unidentified objects. One we’re pretty sure was blood sausage; and after the way it looked when we cut into it, none of us were brave enough to try it. We did try the piece of meat that Mindy decided to call “ear”. It was chewy and tough on the outside, and mealy on the inside. After careful consideration we decided we didn’t like it, but we did ask our waiter what it was we ate…and now I can say I’ve tried tripe.
Our Platter of Meat
Our Favorite Bottle of Wine
We were proud of ourselves tonight - we actually ate dinner with the locals, instead of 3 hours before they're even interested in eating!
February 7 - Buenos Aires
February 8 - Buenos Aires to Ushuaia
February 9 - Ushuaia to the Beagle Channel
February 10 - The Drake Passage
February 11 - The Drake Passage to Aitcho Island
February 12 - Half Moon Island and Deception Island
February 13 - The (First) Best Day Ever
February 14 - The (Second) Best Day Ever
February 15 - Blown Out of Penguin Island
February 16 - The Drake Shake
February 17 - The Drake Passage
February 18 - Ushuaia to Buenos Aires
February 19 - Colonia, Uruguay and Buenos Aires
February 21 - Iguazu Falls
February 22 - Buenos Aires
February 23 - Buenos Aires to Home