SIF@HOME: Bradley's Home Game Rules
SIF@HOME: Bradley's Home Game Rules
[ Changes to this document are tracked by a single comment thread below.]
I have written up these rather extensive rules and procedures for my home game. Even early in the draft, they reached a rather pedantic level of detail that probably makes me look about as neurotic as I am. But, I've thought it through and I have good reasons to be so detailed.
I run a tight ship of a home game. The goal is to make sure that the rules are very clear, with no confusions, so that if something goes wrong when there is some cash on the line, everyone knows what to expect. Also, understanding the type of games that will get played, who gets invited, and how they will be selected helps the game get started smoothly, and helps keep from feelings being hurt if someone isn't invited.
In Baltimore, I ran home games regularly all through college and two years post-college. When I lived in Boston, I was a regular at many home games, one of which is the (in)famous River Street, which (albeit temporarily) grew from a home game into a small for-profit poker club. I've seen friendships destroyed and angry fights at many a home game that made me quite sad. I'm sure we'll have our share of drama at SIF@HOME, but by making the rules and procedures clear, I hope to keep it to a minimum. I guess I ask everyone to bear with me and trust a little bit that having well-defined structure is good for the game.
That said, I am very open to the idea of changing the rules and procedures based on input from everyone. I'd like this to be a community, and, as such, it should have input from all its members. So, if you are a member of the game (or, even if you are just an avid reader of my blog) please use comments on this blog page as a way to submit ideas and changes.
Table Of Contents
Mixed Games - Selection
SIF@HOME is always mixed games. Each game will consist of either six or eight total games. Half of the games are always limit poker and half are always NL/PL. The mix will be decided by negotiation of the first arriving players who are present at the game start time; so, be prompt if you want to give input on the mix. If full and complete consensus cannot be reached on at least three limit varieties and three NL/PL varieties, majority vote will be used to fill out the games to make a full six games. If players arrive while negotiation is still ongoing, the newcomer will get a full say in the mix selection; those arriving after the mix consensus has been reached and written down have no input for that session.
The PL/NL choices are: PLO/8, PLO, NL HE, PL Stud/8, PL Stud, PL London Lowball, NL 2-7 Single-Draw Lowball, PL 5-Card-Draw-High, PL Double-Board HE, PL 5 Card Stud, NL Crazy Pineapple.
The limit choices are: Razz, Stud, O/8, HE, Stud/8, 2-7 Triple Draw Lowball, Badugi, Stud High/Low (Chip Declare), Crazy-Pineapple/8.
The list of game choices is subject to change, by notice will be on this page when the game is announced.
The game changes ever round. Some have asked for it to change less frequently, but mixed games are all about handling the changes, so it will continue to change every round.
Some have asked for limit-only mixed games, or for there to be more limit variations than NL/PL in the mix. The goal of this home game is to mix up PL/NL and limit into a great, exciting mix. If that's not something that interests you, then this isn't your home game. The Brits play and enjoy PL Stud and other variations; we can too. I've decreased the ante levels for PL ante games to make sure they don't play too big.
Players, Invitations, RSVP, and Critical Mass
This section covers issues of getting enough players to make a game happen, and the procedures I'll use to try to make a game happen.
Required Number and Short-Handed Rules
Since we are playing mixed games, the game will be considered to have enough players if at least six players are in attendance. The goal is to have eight players attend, but the game will go with a minimum of six and maximum of nine.
I will take great effort to make sure that arriving players don't show up only to find that a game will be short-handed (i.e., five or less). However, I of course cannot guarantee that unforeseen events cause otherwise “Definite” players to become no-shows. I am always happy to run a game short-handed, but by the same token, no one who does show should feel obligated to play with less than six players. The same rule applies if there are unexpected early departures, but I will try to schedule as best I can to avoid those as well.
Announcement, RSVP, and Critical Mass
Usually, this game run once each month. A poll is usually sent to regular players for date selection. After a date is selected, a “save the date” message is sent a few weeks before the game.
At least five days before each game, I will send out an announcement to the entire invite list of a proposed date and time for the next game. People have until noon two days before the game date to reply if they would like to join the critical mass for the game; each responder should declare herself a Definite or a Maybe for that game. Please only declare yourself a Definite if you can be present for four hours of the game, and indicate in your reply what time you expect to arrive and need to leave.
I will not run the game unless I feel assured that six people have identified as Definite for the entire game time. I will not book more than nine Definites for any four hour period.
Around 6PM, two days before the game, I will send an email either confirming the game, or announcing that the game has not reached critical mass, and will not occur. Therefore, if you wish the game to go, please be sure to reply as a Definite by noon two days before the game date. If the game has critical mass, all Definites will receive an email confirming their status as Definites, and all Maybes will receive an email asking if they want to stay on the Maybe list, or perhaps convert to a Definite. If you are in receipt of a message that names you a “Definite”, I expect you'll arrive and you don't have to reply unless you need to cancel.
I will generally take two Maybes for every seat not claimed by a Definite. Maybes can convert to Definites on a first-come-first-serve basis up until 10PM on the day before the game. After that, seats are given in a first-come-first-serve basis to the Maybes if they show for the game, but a Maybe must give up his seat if a Definite arrives, even if the Definite arrives late. If you are in receipt of a message that names you as a “Maybe”, it is really better if you get in touch and confirm as a Definite to lock up your seat.
In general, the goal here is to give a strong incentive for people to commit as a Definite.
I have not yet established a rule for what to do when Definites become no-shows. I hope it won't happen. If you need to cancel, please try to do so before I've declared critical mass, or, if something else comes up, try to give me 24 hours notice so I can call off the game before people are committed to arriving.
New Players
This game is for people that I know in Real Life, those who already know my close friends in Real Life, or for friends of people I know in Real Life. However, if you'd like to bring a friend, you must arrange with me ahead of time.
I have purposefully made the stakes reasonable but still non-trivial, so there has to be some consideration that we make sure people who come are comfortable with the stakes and are a good fit for the group. Poker can be an emotional game, and it sometimes takes a while to be sure that everyone's temperament is a match. This is a big concern in home games, because we don't have the infrastructure of a casino to make it possible for strangers to play against strangers.
Generally, I use a “vouch” system for deciding who to invite. If a friend that I know really well can indicate to me that they feel comfortable bringing in a particular new person, that's fine with me. But, if you're a new player who has just been brought in, please understand that you may not be able to bring friends right away. Just talk to me about it, and I'll be frank about whether I think it's time to expand the circle. Generally, I want to do so, but like all things in life, it takes time for everyone to get to know each other and get comfortable. It's real money on the table, and we all have to have some sense that no one is going to be dishonorable with anyone else. It takes time to build that trust.
As for rail-birds, I'm generally against it. My apartment is large enough to host the game itself, but I don't want to have a full-blown cocktail party atmosphere. Eight people traipsing through your place one a month is often enough to bring you to the point of frustration, so I don't want to start turning my apartment into a casino once a month. I'm willing to make exceptions to this if there's a friend of a friend who would really like to learn the games with the long term goal of becoming a regular player in the game. Certainly talk to me about that possibility, but I'll need some tough convincing. Generally, the people who come should be players, not watchers (except for my wife, who lives here but doesn't play poker, so you darn well better make her feel welcome. :)
The Stakes
Minimum Buy-in: The minimum buy-in is $1. This is so small so that people can goof off on short stacks on occasion when they have lost a buy-in and want to limit their losses for the day. While it won't be illegal, it will be considered bad etiquette to repeatedly rebuy for amounts less than $20. Exercise the short-rebuy prerogative sparingly, and ask the other players if they mind if you are unsure if you are being rude. Maximum Buy-in: The maximum buy-in is $200, or half the largest stack if someone at the table has more than $400. The goal of this rule is to keep the game from getting too deep-stacked, but to also keep a very large stack from dominating the table during PL/NL rounds. The idea is that at any time, even the biggest stack could lose that honor to someone else in one pot, and leave the victor with the same sized big-stack that loser once had. NL/PL blind games: Blinds will be $1/$1 for the NL/PL blind-based games. Note that the small blind and big blind are the same amount, as in European card rooms. Both blinds have options to raise before the next betting round. The goal here is to keep the game a bit smaller than a $1/$2 game, and encourage more play beyond the first betting round. PL Ante games: PL ante games will play with an “effective” $0.10 ante. The button will ante for everyone, rounding to the nearest dollar (to keep away chips worth less than a $1). With 3-4 players, there is no ante; with 5-9, the ante is $1. The bring-in will be $1. Limit blind games: Blinds will be $2/$4 and games will play as $4/$8 limit, using standard rules for when the bet goes from small to big. Limit Ante games: Limit ante games will play with an “effective” $0.25 ante. The button will ante for everyone, rounding to the nearest dollar (to keep away chips worth less than a $1). With 3-5 players, the ante is $1; with 6-9, the ante is $2. The bring-in will be $2. Any player may double-bet on fourth street in Stud-high (but not Stud high/low) when a pair shows. Straddling in Blind Games: In both NL/PL and limit blind games, straddling will be permitted. A player in the position to the immediate left of all blind bets may straddle for double the previous blind bet. That straddle will become a blind bet. Players may thus restraddle an existing straddle bet, which doubles the previous straddle to its right. This can continue all around the table, such that the small blind becomes the first to act on the first round. (Note: this differs from Robert's rules, which allows for only one straddle. This rule allows for N-2 straddles, where N is the number of players dealt into the hand.) Capped Betting in Limit Games: The third raise makes a cap (meaning there can be more than four bets in a straddled pot). Heads-up unlimited raising is permitted, if the pot is heads-up when the second raise for that betting round goes into the pot. Rules and Rulings
Unless they are trumped by rules stated in this document, the game will follow Robert's Rules of Poker. I have made efforts to check and see where these rules differ, and have noted such here.
Rulings (i.e., interpretation of the rules) are a difficult matter in a home game, since there is no management who is reasonably disinterested in the outcome of a particular situation. Barring a better solution, I will act as “floorperson” on all disputes (except when I have an active hand at the moment the dispute begins). In the former cases, my decisions will be final. I will strive to decide each case in a way that is equitable to the game as a whole. For example, in a serious misdeal situation that cannot be rectified, I might decide to pay out based on mathematical equity to each active hand at the given moment. This is unorthodox, but if it seems to serve the friendliness of the game, I'll go that way.
If I am an active player, I will remain neutral. In those cases, decisions are made by consensus of all inactive players. Consensus must be reached, and the decision is final. It's in the best interest of the game for everyone to try to come to a consensus. If it becomes clear that consensus can't be found, then I will muck my hand, make a ruling and give up my interest in the a pot. I'd rather not do this, of course, so I ask that people make reasonable efforts to reach consensus when a ruling is needed and I'm in the hand.
Hand Sharing
It's a home game, so we deviate from Robert's Rules' one player to a hand rule slightly. Namely, it is permissible to show your hand to inactive players, but you cannot receive advice on how to play it. However, all players in the game have the right to see the hand that has been shown, when the hand is complete. Players who wish to share the contents of their hands with others are required to hold out the hand from the muck so they can show it at the end. This rule exists to keep the home game spirit of “playing along” but also make sure everyone has equal information in the game.
Dealing and Card Shortages
We typically play “risky” with the number of cards in the deck. We play 2-7 TD up to seven handed (people to the left of the big blind sit out until seven-handed is reached). Still, seven-handed 2-7 TD often requires reshuffles. We play other draw games a full nine-handed, and reshuffle the predraw muck. In Stud games, we go for the full nine-handed as well, since, due to folds, it really is unlikely that we will run out of cards. However, we never use burn cards in Stud games to minimize the likelihood.
The dealer is reminded to be careful about running out of cards. Triple Draw is dealt such that no one can receive the same card they discarded on that particular round. Mucks are merged after each draw; however, so it is possible to receive the same card you discarded on an earlier round of drawing.
The button moves even with Stud games, both to keep count of when the game should change, and to indicate the actual dealer. Each person takes a turn dealing when on the button, but the dealer should never be the one to shuffle a deck. If you are handed a deck for your deal, do not shuffle it; merely cut it immediately before your deal. You will shuffle when your deal is complete, and hand the cleaned deck to the person two to your left. If a dealer reshuffles his own deck, the deck must be then given to someone else to shuffle. It is unlikely that someone would try to stack the deck in this game, but we might as well make it difficult if someone were to try.
Some of the games are difficult to deal; be sure to ask someone if you are unsure when to burn, how to handle the muck, etc.
“Coffee-housing” and Inducing Action
In most clubs and poker rooms, speculating about someone's holding, talking to players to induce action, or disclosing information about your own hand is prohibited, except when heads-up in a cash game. That rule does not apply here. All such speculating and speaking will be permitted by any player with a live hand. Basically, any sort of talking during a hand more or less goes, no matter how many players are in the hand. It's a home game; goof off. However, please don't use aggressive table-talk designed to confuse and disorient opponents.
Players who have folded or otherwise have no active hand of their own may not speculate, induce action, or otherwise coffee-house. The only exception to this rule is the dealer in a stud game may speculate about boards in-between betting rounds while dealing up cards.
Game Duration
Too often, games have no clear end and someone inevitably seems to leave way up, and everyone else is annoyed. All SIF@HOME games will have a defined end time (typically about eight hours after the start time). At that time, there is automatically a discussion about who wants to continue the game and who wants to go home. Since everyone knows this beforehand, there is less stigma attached with leaving.
Players may leave early or arrive late, but are asked to say so explicitly when responding during the critical mass period. Also, players at the game who must leave early should announce it and give the exact leaving time when they arrive. That way, everyone knows before the money's in play what will happen if you double up ten minutes before you go.
An exception is made for this rule if someone has busted out and lost all their chips. The goal of these game duration policies is to: (a) make sure the game doesn't get broken up early, (b) make sure enough players stay for long enough, and (c) to avoid hit-and-run play. However, regardless of this, someone who has lost a full buy-in should never under any circumstances feel obligated to rebuy.
In the interest of making the game continue for its full duration, those who are playing on short money (in other words, those who have only one, or less than one, buy-in to play with for the entire duration) are encouraged to buy-in short-stacked. The buy-in rules permit short-stacked buy-in, and players are encouraged to make use of that to limit the amount that they have at risk in the game. The goal here is not to fleece anyone for more than they can afford; therefore, players should feel comfortable buying in for amounts around $40-$60 if they aren't yet comfortable with the games or the stakes.
[ I realize this is a major trade-off for people who, as I do, like to play deep-stacked PL/NL games. However, one of the original goals of this game is to cross-pollinate the limit and NL/PL poker worlds. As such, everyone in the game should be understanding that some players - particularly those coming from the limit world - have, well, limits to what they are willing to put at risk in a single hand, and we should be respectful of that. Also, even those who do usually play NL HE may be familiar with only that game, and are concerned about losing a lot in a PLO or PLO/8 game. ]
Non-Smoking
My apartment is 100% non-smoking. Getting in and out of my place to the street requires someone to go with you to let you in and out. So, don't expect to be able to smoke easily during the game. If you absolutely cannot go five hours without a cigarette, this may not be the home game for you. I guess I'd entertain the idea of walking everyone out for one smoke break during the duration of the game.
Food and Drinks
I will pick up beverages and ask for donations at each game. I think this is an easier way than everyone trying to bring their own. I will of course take requests. I don't mind picking things up, and then it is all centralized and there isn't too much of one thing. Feel free to bring something special if you want it and think I'm unlikely to get it.
I usually buy an array of carbonated soft drinks and maybe a few other types of sugary beverages, as well as waters. I get some potato chips, usually onion dip (which I've made for poker games since I first hosted them), and maybe some cookies.
I generally don't drink alcohol, but I'm not opposed to it. So, the one thing you should bring if you really want it is alcoholic beverages. I don't know enough about them to buy good beers, or whatever, so bring what you want in this regard.
Equipment and Chips
Chips
If this game gets going regularly, I am planning on purchasing a serious chip set from PokerChips.com. Greg's River Street chips were from here and they were excellent.
Currently, since the idea of binary chip values was so antithetical, we will have $1, $2, $5, and $25 chips. I will use my old Wood Expressions set until such time I place a PokerChips.com order.
Table
Here is the table that will be used at all games: the table has arrived and is in use.. I prefer round tables, as it is better for conversation. Don't worry, I have the traditional green, not burgundy.
[ Changes to this document are tracked by a single comment thread below.]
I have written up these rather extensive rules and procedures for my home game. Even early in the draft, they reached a rather pedantic level of detail that probably makes me look about as neurotic as I am. But, I've thought it through and I have good reasons to be so detailed.
I run a tight ship of a home game. The goal is to make sure that the rules are very clear, with no confusions, so that if something goes wrong when there is some cash on the line, everyone knows what to expect. Also, understanding the type of games that will get played, who gets invited, and how they will be selected helps the game get started smoothly, and helps keep from feelings being hurt if someone isn't invited.
In Baltimore, I ran home games regularly all through college and two years post-college. When I lived in Boston, I was a regular at many home games, one of which is the (in)famous River Street, which (albeit temporarily) grew from a home game into a small for-profit poker club. I've seen friendships destroyed and angry fights at many a home game that made me quite sad. I'm sure we'll have our share of drama at SIF@HOME, but by making the rules and procedures clear, I hope to keep it to a minimum. I guess I ask everyone to bear with me and trust a little bit that having well-defined structure is good for the game.
That said, I am very open to the idea of changing the rules and procedures based on input from everyone. I'd like this to be a community, and, as such, it should have input from all its members. So, if you are a member of the game (or, even if you are just an avid reader of my blog) please use comments on this blog page as a way to submit ideas and changes.
Table Of Contents
- Mixed Games - Selection
- Players, Invitations, RSVP, and Critical Mass
- The Stakes
- Rules and Rulings
- Game Duration
- 100% Non-Smoking Game
- Food and Drinks
Mixed Games - Selection
SIF@HOME is always mixed games. Each game will consist of either six or eight total games. Half of the games are always limit poker and half are always NL/PL. The mix will be decided by negotiation of the first arriving players who are present at the game start time; so, be prompt if you want to give input on the mix. If full and complete consensus cannot be reached on at least three limit varieties and three NL/PL varieties, majority vote will be used to fill out the games to make a full six games. If players arrive while negotiation is still ongoing, the newcomer will get a full say in the mix selection; those arriving after the mix consensus has been reached and written down have no input for that session.
The PL/NL choices are: PLO/8, PLO, NL HE, PL Stud/8, PL Stud, PL London Lowball, NL 2-7 Single-Draw Lowball, PL 5-Card-Draw-High, PL Double-Board HE, PL 5 Card Stud, NL Crazy Pineapple.
The limit choices are: Razz, Stud, O/8, HE, Stud/8, 2-7 Triple Draw Lowball, Badugi, Stud High/Low (Chip Declare), Crazy-Pineapple/8.
The list of game choices is subject to change, by notice will be on this page when the game is announced.
The game changes ever round. Some have asked for it to change less frequently, but mixed games are all about handling the changes, so it will continue to change every round.
Some have asked for limit-only mixed games, or for there to be more limit variations than NL/PL in the mix. The goal of this home game is to mix up PL/NL and limit into a great, exciting mix. If that's not something that interests you, then this isn't your home game. The Brits play and enjoy PL Stud and other variations; we can too. I've decreased the ante levels for PL ante games to make sure they don't play too big.
Players, Invitations, RSVP, and Critical Mass
This section covers issues of getting enough players to make a game happen, and the procedures I'll use to try to make a game happen.
Required Number and Short-Handed Rules
Since we are playing mixed games, the game will be considered to have enough players if at least six players are in attendance. The goal is to have eight players attend, but the game will go with a minimum of six and maximum of nine.
I will take great effort to make sure that arriving players don't show up only to find that a game will be short-handed (i.e., five or less). However, I of course cannot guarantee that unforeseen events cause otherwise “Definite” players to become no-shows. I am always happy to run a game short-handed, but by the same token, no one who does show should feel obligated to play with less than six players. The same rule applies if there are unexpected early departures, but I will try to schedule as best I can to avoid those as well.
Announcement, RSVP, and Critical Mass
Usually, this game run once each month. A poll is usually sent to regular players for date selection. After a date is selected, a “save the date” message is sent a few weeks before the game.
At least five days before each game, I will send out an announcement to the entire invite list of a proposed date and time for the next game. People have until noon two days before the game date to reply if they would like to join the critical mass for the game; each responder should declare herself a Definite or a Maybe for that game. Please only declare yourself a Definite if you can be present for four hours of the game, and indicate in your reply what time you expect to arrive and need to leave.
I will not run the game unless I feel assured that six people have identified as Definite for the entire game time. I will not book more than nine Definites for any four hour period.
Around 6PM, two days before the game, I will send an email either confirming the game, or announcing that the game has not reached critical mass, and will not occur. Therefore, if you wish the game to go, please be sure to reply as a Definite by noon two days before the game date. If the game has critical mass, all Definites will receive an email confirming their status as Definites, and all Maybes will receive an email asking if they want to stay on the Maybe list, or perhaps convert to a Definite. If you are in receipt of a message that names you a “Definite”, I expect you'll arrive and you don't have to reply unless you need to cancel.
I will generally take two Maybes for every seat not claimed by a Definite. Maybes can convert to Definites on a first-come-first-serve basis up until 10PM on the day before the game. After that, seats are given in a first-come-first-serve basis to the Maybes if they show for the game, but a Maybe must give up his seat if a Definite arrives, even if the Definite arrives late. If you are in receipt of a message that names you as a “Maybe”, it is really better if you get in touch and confirm as a Definite to lock up your seat.
In general, the goal here is to give a strong incentive for people to commit as a Definite.
I have not yet established a rule for what to do when Definites become no-shows. I hope it won't happen. If you need to cancel, please try to do so before I've declared critical mass, or, if something else comes up, try to give me 24 hours notice so I can call off the game before people are committed to arriving.
New Players
This game is for people that I know in Real Life, those who already know my close friends in Real Life, or for friends of people I know in Real Life. However, if you'd like to bring a friend, you must arrange with me ahead of time.
I have purposefully made the stakes reasonable but still non-trivial, so there has to be some consideration that we make sure people who come are comfortable with the stakes and are a good fit for the group. Poker can be an emotional game, and it sometimes takes a while to be sure that everyone's temperament is a match. This is a big concern in home games, because we don't have the infrastructure of a casino to make it possible for strangers to play against strangers.
Generally, I use a “vouch” system for deciding who to invite. If a friend that I know really well can indicate to me that they feel comfortable bringing in a particular new person, that's fine with me. But, if you're a new player who has just been brought in, please understand that you may not be able to bring friends right away. Just talk to me about it, and I'll be frank about whether I think it's time to expand the circle. Generally, I want to do so, but like all things in life, it takes time for everyone to get to know each other and get comfortable. It's real money on the table, and we all have to have some sense that no one is going to be dishonorable with anyone else. It takes time to build that trust.
As for rail-birds, I'm generally against it. My apartment is large enough to host the game itself, but I don't want to have a full-blown cocktail party atmosphere. Eight people traipsing through your place one a month is often enough to bring you to the point of frustration, so I don't want to start turning my apartment into a casino once a month. I'm willing to make exceptions to this if there's a friend of a friend who would really like to learn the games with the long term goal of becoming a regular player in the game. Certainly talk to me about that possibility, but I'll need some tough convincing. Generally, the people who come should be players, not watchers (except for my wife, who lives here but doesn't play poker, so you darn well better make her feel welcome. :)
The Stakes
Minimum Buy-in: The minimum buy-in is $1. This is so small so that people can goof off on short stacks on occasion when they have lost a buy-in and want to limit their losses for the day. While it won't be illegal, it will be considered bad etiquette to repeatedly rebuy for amounts less than $20. Exercise the short-rebuy prerogative sparingly, and ask the other players if they mind if you are unsure if you are being rude. Maximum Buy-in: The maximum buy-in is $200, or half the largest stack if someone at the table has more than $400. The goal of this rule is to keep the game from getting too deep-stacked, but to also keep a very large stack from dominating the table during PL/NL rounds. The idea is that at any time, even the biggest stack could lose that honor to someone else in one pot, and leave the victor with the same sized big-stack that loser once had. NL/PL blind games: Blinds will be $1/$1 for the NL/PL blind-based games. Note that the small blind and big blind are the same amount, as in European card rooms. Both blinds have options to raise before the next betting round. The goal here is to keep the game a bit smaller than a $1/$2 game, and encourage more play beyond the first betting round. PL Ante games: PL ante games will play with an “effective” $0.10 ante. The button will ante for everyone, rounding to the nearest dollar (to keep away chips worth less than a $1). With 3-4 players, there is no ante; with 5-9, the ante is $1. The bring-in will be $1. Limit blind games: Blinds will be $2/$4 and games will play as $4/$8 limit, using standard rules for when the bet goes from small to big. Limit Ante games: Limit ante games will play with an “effective” $0.25 ante. The button will ante for everyone, rounding to the nearest dollar (to keep away chips worth less than a $1). With 3-5 players, the ante is $1; with 6-9, the ante is $2. The bring-in will be $2. Any player may double-bet on fourth street in Stud-high (but not Stud high/low) when a pair shows. Straddling in Blind Games: In both NL/PL and limit blind games, straddling will be permitted. A player in the position to the immediate left of all blind bets may straddle for double the previous blind bet. That straddle will become a blind bet. Players may thus restraddle an existing straddle bet, which doubles the previous straddle to its right. This can continue all around the table, such that the small blind becomes the first to act on the first round. (Note: this differs from Robert's rules, which allows for only one straddle. This rule allows for N-2 straddles, where N is the number of players dealt into the hand.) Capped Betting in Limit Games: The third raise makes a cap (meaning there can be more than four bets in a straddled pot). Heads-up unlimited raising is permitted, if the pot is heads-up when the second raise for that betting round goes into the pot. Rules and Rulings
Unless they are trumped by rules stated in this document, the game will follow Robert's Rules of Poker. I have made efforts to check and see where these rules differ, and have noted such here.
Rulings (i.e., interpretation of the rules) are a difficult matter in a home game, since there is no management who is reasonably disinterested in the outcome of a particular situation. Barring a better solution, I will act as “floorperson” on all disputes (except when I have an active hand at the moment the dispute begins). In the former cases, my decisions will be final. I will strive to decide each case in a way that is equitable to the game as a whole. For example, in a serious misdeal situation that cannot be rectified, I might decide to pay out based on mathematical equity to each active hand at the given moment. This is unorthodox, but if it seems to serve the friendliness of the game, I'll go that way.
If I am an active player, I will remain neutral. In those cases, decisions are made by consensus of all inactive players. Consensus must be reached, and the decision is final. It's in the best interest of the game for everyone to try to come to a consensus. If it becomes clear that consensus can't be found, then I will muck my hand, make a ruling and give up my interest in the a pot. I'd rather not do this, of course, so I ask that people make reasonable efforts to reach consensus when a ruling is needed and I'm in the hand.
Hand Sharing
It's a home game, so we deviate from Robert's Rules' one player to a hand rule slightly. Namely, it is permissible to show your hand to inactive players, but you cannot receive advice on how to play it. However, all players in the game have the right to see the hand that has been shown, when the hand is complete. Players who wish to share the contents of their hands with others are required to hold out the hand from the muck so they can show it at the end. This rule exists to keep the home game spirit of “playing along” but also make sure everyone has equal information in the game.
Dealing and Card Shortages
We typically play “risky” with the number of cards in the deck. We play 2-7 TD up to seven handed (people to the left of the big blind sit out until seven-handed is reached). Still, seven-handed 2-7 TD often requires reshuffles. We play other draw games a full nine-handed, and reshuffle the predraw muck. In Stud games, we go for the full nine-handed as well, since, due to folds, it really is unlikely that we will run out of cards. However, we never use burn cards in Stud games to minimize the likelihood.
The dealer is reminded to be careful about running out of cards. Triple Draw is dealt such that no one can receive the same card they discarded on that particular round. Mucks are merged after each draw; however, so it is possible to receive the same card you discarded on an earlier round of drawing.
The button moves even with Stud games, both to keep count of when the game should change, and to indicate the actual dealer. Each person takes a turn dealing when on the button, but the dealer should never be the one to shuffle a deck. If you are handed a deck for your deal, do not shuffle it; merely cut it immediately before your deal. You will shuffle when your deal is complete, and hand the cleaned deck to the person two to your left. If a dealer reshuffles his own deck, the deck must be then given to someone else to shuffle. It is unlikely that someone would try to stack the deck in this game, but we might as well make it difficult if someone were to try.
Some of the games are difficult to deal; be sure to ask someone if you are unsure when to burn, how to handle the muck, etc.
“Coffee-housing” and Inducing Action
In most clubs and poker rooms, speculating about someone's holding, talking to players to induce action, or disclosing information about your own hand is prohibited, except when heads-up in a cash game. That rule does not apply here. All such speculating and speaking will be permitted by any player with a live hand. Basically, any sort of talking during a hand more or less goes, no matter how many players are in the hand. It's a home game; goof off. However, please don't use aggressive table-talk designed to confuse and disorient opponents.
Players who have folded or otherwise have no active hand of their own may not speculate, induce action, or otherwise coffee-house. The only exception to this rule is the dealer in a stud game may speculate about boards in-between betting rounds while dealing up cards.
Game Duration
Too often, games have no clear end and someone inevitably seems to leave way up, and everyone else is annoyed. All SIF@HOME games will have a defined end time (typically about eight hours after the start time). At that time, there is automatically a discussion about who wants to continue the game and who wants to go home. Since everyone knows this beforehand, there is less stigma attached with leaving.
Players may leave early or arrive late, but are asked to say so explicitly when responding during the critical mass period. Also, players at the game who must leave early should announce it and give the exact leaving time when they arrive. That way, everyone knows before the money's in play what will happen if you double up ten minutes before you go.
An exception is made for this rule if someone has busted out and lost all their chips. The goal of these game duration policies is to: (a) make sure the game doesn't get broken up early, (b) make sure enough players stay for long enough, and (c) to avoid hit-and-run play. However, regardless of this, someone who has lost a full buy-in should never under any circumstances feel obligated to rebuy.
In the interest of making the game continue for its full duration, those who are playing on short money (in other words, those who have only one, or less than one, buy-in to play with for the entire duration) are encouraged to buy-in short-stacked. The buy-in rules permit short-stacked buy-in, and players are encouraged to make use of that to limit the amount that they have at risk in the game. The goal here is not to fleece anyone for more than they can afford; therefore, players should feel comfortable buying in for amounts around $40-$60 if they aren't yet comfortable with the games or the stakes.
[ I realize this is a major trade-off for people who, as I do, like to play deep-stacked PL/NL games. However, one of the original goals of this game is to cross-pollinate the limit and NL/PL poker worlds. As such, everyone in the game should be understanding that some players - particularly those coming from the limit world - have, well, limits to what they are willing to put at risk in a single hand, and we should be respectful of that. Also, even those who do usually play NL HE may be familiar with only that game, and are concerned about losing a lot in a PLO or PLO/8 game. ]
Non-Smoking
My apartment is 100% non-smoking. Getting in and out of my place to the street requires someone to go with you to let you in and out. So, don't expect to be able to smoke easily during the game. If you absolutely cannot go five hours without a cigarette, this may not be the home game for you. I guess I'd entertain the idea of walking everyone out for one smoke break during the duration of the game.
Food and Drinks
I will pick up beverages and ask for donations at each game. I think this is an easier way than everyone trying to bring their own. I will of course take requests. I don't mind picking things up, and then it is all centralized and there isn't too much of one thing. Feel free to bring something special if you want it and think I'm unlikely to get it.
I usually buy an array of carbonated soft drinks and maybe a few other types of sugary beverages, as well as waters. I get some potato chips, usually onion dip (which I've made for poker games since I first hosted them), and maybe some cookies.
I generally don't drink alcohol, but I'm not opposed to it. So, the one thing you should bring if you really want it is alcoholic beverages. I don't know enough about them to buy good beers, or whatever, so bring what you want in this regard.
Equipment and Chips
Chips
If this game gets going regularly, I am planning on purchasing a serious chip set from PokerChips.com. Greg's River Street chips were from here and they were excellent.
Currently, since the idea of binary chip values was so antithetical, we will have $1, $2, $5, and $25 chips. I will use my old Wood Expressions set until such time I place a PokerChips.com order.
Table
Here is the table that will be used at all games: the table has arrived and is in use.. I prefer round tables, as it is better for conversation. Don't worry, I have the traditional green, not burgundy.