Full Metal Alchemist kicks ass. It's been a while since I've run into an anime this original, and this well fleshed-out. And yes, while it can get a little heavy on the moralizing at times, the dialogue is snappy, and the plots well-paced.

And I've got a real soft spot for Al.

Yowza, I haven't seen these in ages. Ah, Kenshin...

You gotta love youtube-- they've got the whole thing up, starting here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEBdjeYBy_Q

Be warned, it's a little on the bloody side. Great sword sequences, though.