Dress Diary: Køstrup Apron Dress - Extrapolating the Rest
For my interpretation of the Køstrup apron dress, I am concentrating on the single surviving seam between the front loop and the underarm to guide my interpretation. I want to preserve that seam in my recreation, so I needed to extrapolate from another garment that let me preserve the use of that seam. I have chosen the Moselund kirtle as the best available item from which to extrapolate a possible design for the rest of the garment.
The Moselund kirtle is a reasonable choice because, while it post-dates the Viking Age proper, it's been used before as a source for information about Danish Viking clothing by Hald and others. It also features long side gores, giving me a seam in the appropriate location, which you can see here:
(I've moved the forward-of-underarm seam inward a little from the location in that photo. Hopefully that'll become more apparent as the dress comes together.)
I've thus chosen to use long side gores in my version of the Køstrup apron dress, plus several other integral elements from the Moselund kirtle, to fill in the details missing from the Køstrup information. I'm using the front and back godets that don't reach as far as the side gores on the Moselund kirtle--the upper edge of the surviving Køstrup fragment seems not to have been interrupted by a central godet, or at least that anyone has noticed. I'm also using the wider back and thinner front from the Moselund kirtle, as I think that may assist in getting a nice shapely dress. I'm not doing pleated gores this time, simply because I don't want to, but it may also be an option for incorporation into someone else's version.
I've cut my red wool according to the above pieces, and I'm going to be using up nearly every shred of that fabric in this dress. Even my store-cutting waste is going toward the dress loops.
Sewing next, using the wool thread I've spun.
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The Moselund kirtle is a reasonable choice because, while it post-dates the Viking Age proper, it's been used before as a source for information about Danish Viking clothing by Hald and others. It also features long side gores, giving me a seam in the appropriate location, which you can see here:
(I've moved the forward-of-underarm seam inward a little from the location in that photo. Hopefully that'll become more apparent as the dress comes together.)
I've thus chosen to use long side gores in my version of the Køstrup apron dress, plus several other integral elements from the Moselund kirtle, to fill in the details missing from the Køstrup information. I'm using the front and back godets that don't reach as far as the side gores on the Moselund kirtle--the upper edge of the surviving Køstrup fragment seems not to have been interrupted by a central godet, or at least that anyone has noticed. I'm also using the wider back and thinner front from the Moselund kirtle, as I think that may assist in getting a nice shapely dress. I'm not doing pleated gores this time, simply because I don't want to, but it may also be an option for incorporation into someone else's version.
I've cut my red wool according to the above pieces, and I'm going to be using up nearly every shred of that fabric in this dress. Even my store-cutting waste is going toward the dress loops.
Sewing next, using the wool thread I've spun.
This entry was originally posted on Dreamwidth. Please comment there using OpenID.
comments currently posted.