(no subject)
The ocean was amazing yesterday. In the mid-morning there were plenty of chest high sets coming through, and I was style cruising on my longboard. The sets seemed like they could be way fun on my shortboard, so I left to snag it.
Later, I stopped for a surf at a local beach street and a collision ensued with another female surfer, but, unfortunately, this time it was a friend.
[SIDE NOTE: I am over surfing with women, using the exception of a few who have surely started to master the dynamics of surfing. The ladies who understand the wave, the surfing, and themselves are those who I wish to surf with; too bad they all live down south.]
After seeing a nice rash/burn/scrape and a stab from a fin on my leg, I was slightly upset. I may have been more upset if I was in the position of the other girl, gouged board and missing fin, but I played the wave nicely and road away ... she let her board go, and what happened, did. Besides my leg, I decided to go surf the better break that day, maybe slightly crowded, but surely a much better wave. Sizable fun sets were steady and rolling in as the tide began changing, causing huge close outs or crumbling bumps of mush with zero to negative ability for speed. I returned home, ate a banana and drank some water. Miles, Chris, and I smoked at one of my favorite secrete spots, because it looks like a mini-beach and it is on the river.
We tried to head south in hopes of a bigger bump, or at least a bump that would push all the way from the outside to shore. Too bad so sad. We made it to south Melbourne and it was looking much worse, the tide was going low and the winds had picked up from the south. Over an hour or so, we watched four different breaks heading back north, making it back to home, Second Light. Nothing was impressive about The Light; Steve Terry was out taking shots, but each wave seemed to be producing nothing more than extreme pumping, flailing arms, and half-assed turns from everyone in the water.
In need for one last surf, we headed back out and found several friends out in the line-up. Around 8 I made it home, ate some good dinner, took a shower and headed to Kate's house. Night of the Living Dead is choice and so we watched it, and then I came home and passed out.
This day was great.
Summer is nice.
Later, I stopped for a surf at a local beach street and a collision ensued with another female surfer, but, unfortunately, this time it was a friend.
[SIDE NOTE: I am over surfing with women, using the exception of a few who have surely started to master the dynamics of surfing. The ladies who understand the wave, the surfing, and themselves are those who I wish to surf with; too bad they all live down south.]
After seeing a nice rash/burn/scrape and a stab from a fin on my leg, I was slightly upset. I may have been more upset if I was in the position of the other girl, gouged board and missing fin, but I played the wave nicely and road away ... she let her board go, and what happened, did. Besides my leg, I decided to go surf the better break that day, maybe slightly crowded, but surely a much better wave. Sizable fun sets were steady and rolling in as the tide began changing, causing huge close outs or crumbling bumps of mush with zero to negative ability for speed. I returned home, ate a banana and drank some water. Miles, Chris, and I smoked at one of my favorite secrete spots, because it looks like a mini-beach and it is on the river.
We tried to head south in hopes of a bigger bump, or at least a bump that would push all the way from the outside to shore. Too bad so sad. We made it to south Melbourne and it was looking much worse, the tide was going low and the winds had picked up from the south. Over an hour or so, we watched four different breaks heading back north, making it back to home, Second Light. Nothing was impressive about The Light; Steve Terry was out taking shots, but each wave seemed to be producing nothing more than extreme pumping, flailing arms, and half-assed turns from everyone in the water.
In need for one last surf, we headed back out and found several friends out in the line-up. Around 8 I made it home, ate some good dinner, took a shower and headed to Kate's house. Night of the Living Dead is choice and so we watched it, and then I came home and passed out.
This day was great.
Summer is nice.