I really want to write a decent entry about the past few days, covering everything from the incredible flora and fauna to the proprietors of the
Takou River Lodge to the disappointing
Hundertwasser toilets in Kawakawa to the cafe (and Dutch cheese store) where we stopped on our way home yesterday, but, truthfully, I spent the entire weekend almost continually awed by the simple fact that I was not dreaming, that I couldn't even have dreamt this place up, that I brought back with me more than mozzie bites and erratic sunburn, and the few words I've got are little more than a jumble. My inner monologue sounds like the intense buzzing of cicadas that all but filled our stay up north: enormous flying fish, the frantic squawk of a
pukeko about to land, fresh organic produce, the distinctive hand cramp of our second long kayaking excursion, manuka honey, solar power, why exactly young Harry feels compelled to reach for everyone's groin, strange relief at the sight of a dead possum. And I'm happy to be home, and ready to start a new job tomorrow, but you have no idea how much I'll miss that water pressure.
Full photo set
here, but a summary can be found below
:
View of Whangarei Heads from the two-lane(!) motorway, which actually gets quite a lot of traffic, hence the occasional eagerly awaited passing lane. National radio had warned of lousy weather all weekend, but thankfully it was mostly fine following the drive up on Friday afternoon.
On our way to the Magic Cottage, which is solar-powered and comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, gas stove and barbecue, and a lovely cast-iron bathtub out on the deck facing the river. It's unbelievably private, relaxing and... kind of surreal. The grounds themselves are approximately 150 acres, surrounded by other farms and tribal land, and the gardens are filled with an amazing variety of plant life.
Friday night sunset as viewed from the wharf.
Dawn Saturday as viewed from the cottage.
Rainbow Falls in Kerikeri.
Saturday afternoon, also from the cottage. We went kayaking to the beach and then came back and made burgers.
They were delicious. (Hoodie in summer equals paranoia about acquiring more mosquito bites.)
On Sunday morning we kayaked back to the beach, which is naturally a number of beaches, broken up only by large rocks.
On the third beach we found a dead penguin. Unfortunately, I'll probably remember that moment forever.
Then we headed back, ate some fruit and waited for crabs to appear.
At the same time, a pair of oyster catchers patiently awaited lunch.
We were pretty exhausted by the time we got back, but after dinner managed a walk around the grounds to see this monument...
...and gape at the incredible landscape.
Originally we were going to stop at Waitangi on our way home, but we decided to save that for our next stay at the Magic Cottage - by which time I hope to have read Michael King's Penguin History of New Zealand - and instead opted for
Cafe Eutopia in Kaiwaka, which made me really happy. Best Christmas present ever? Thank you, Chris.