long time no chat!a_c_fiorucciAugust 29 2006, 03:42:43 UTC
Looks like you are making a lot of progress on this!
At the risk of telling you things you already know, I venture a few suggestions.
If you make Jen's gowns front lacing, they can be adjusted as she changes sizes. If you do a spiral lacing, they will hold tight however wide the gap between the front ends up being. And if you have a panel behind the lacing, she won't (hopefully) feel messy. (I wore my italian, which was patterned when I weighed ~135, up to 7 or 8 months pregnant when I was closer to 160 and up two cup sizes. They are all front lace only. They are also very supportive.)
Grommets never work for me. Does your machine do round buttonholes? Otherwise, you can get metal rings or cool things (like belt findings) to attach to the fabric and lace through those. Handy for those of us who can never get the placement of the holes right the first ten times. I think www.theringlord.com is where Julia got a bunch of small brass rings to use for lacing. I've used D-rings from leather stores and fancy eyes from hook & eye sets too.
If you use a ring or eyelet for attaching the sleeves, make sure that one is not at the point of the shoulder, especially if you have a metal ring and/or a big knot. The weight of the dress will push the ring/knot into your shoulder and make you very unhappy. I'd set the center one back a bit (I use 3 points, about 1.5" apart). Or make it relatively big stitches so you can take the sleeves off again quickly!
I have a sleeve pattern draft I can send to you, as well as a pair of forest green brocade sleeves ready made (you'd need some way to attach them and a button/eyelet at the cuff to close them). I made them but don't like them with any of the dresses I have. If they can be of any use either to wear or as ideas, I'll gladly send them!
I went to a bunch of 15th c Italian garment classes at Pennsic, unfortunately the handouts are not online that I can see. This person seems to be the organizer/head Laurel of the sessions: www. geocities.com/kamillavh. They suggested lacing the gamurra down into the skirt opening for a couple of inches, to prevent "gapitis".
Also, Mistress Kamilla told me a little at Pennsic about how she did her giornea (overgown), which was basically seam her two pieces of fabric together for the full lenght (floor up over shoulders and down back) except for the points in the middle where the head goes (call it waist to top of neck of gamurra). Then she draped it on a dress form and figured out what of the sides needed to be cut away to make a pleasant angle from hem to shoulder (that's where we both got distracted, so I don't know details). Mine was a little fussy to wear, not sure if that is because it was made badly, or too stiff, or my gamurra was way too long. Also, the pattern would have been upside down which would not be pleasant to my (modern) eye.
Anyway, I hope that you can take lots of pictures so we can see how wonderful you all will look!
At the risk of telling you things you already know, I venture a few suggestions.
If you make Jen's gowns front lacing, they can be adjusted as she changes sizes. If you do a spiral lacing, they will hold tight however wide the gap between the front ends up being. And if you have a panel behind the lacing, she won't (hopefully) feel messy. (I wore my italian, which was patterned when I weighed ~135, up to 7 or 8 months pregnant when I was closer to 160 and up two cup sizes. They are all front lace only. They are also very supportive.)
Grommets never work for me. Does your machine do round buttonholes? Otherwise, you can get metal rings or cool things (like belt findings) to attach to the fabric and lace through those. Handy for those of us who can never get the placement of the holes right the first ten times. I think www.theringlord.com is where Julia got a bunch of small brass rings to use for lacing. I've used D-rings from leather stores and fancy eyes from hook & eye sets too.
If you use a ring or eyelet for attaching the sleeves, make sure that one is not at the point of the shoulder, especially if you have a metal ring and/or a big knot. The weight of the dress will push the ring/knot into your shoulder and make you very unhappy. I'd set the center one back a bit (I use 3 points, about 1.5" apart). Or make it relatively big stitches so you can take the sleeves off again quickly!
I have a sleeve pattern draft I can send to you, as well as a pair of forest green brocade sleeves ready made (you'd need some way to attach them and a button/eyelet at the cuff to close them). I made them but don't like them with any of the dresses I have. If they can be of any use either to wear or as ideas, I'll gladly send them!
I went to a bunch of 15th c Italian garment classes at Pennsic, unfortunately the handouts are not online that I can see. This person seems to be the organizer/head Laurel of the sessions: www. geocities.com/kamillavh. They suggested lacing the gamurra down into the skirt opening for a couple of inches, to prevent "gapitis".
Also, Mistress Kamilla told me a little at Pennsic about how she did her giornea (overgown), which was basically seam her two pieces of fabric together for the full lenght (floor up over shoulders and down back) except for the points in the middle where the head goes (call it waist to top of neck of gamurra). Then she draped it on a dress form and figured out what of the sides needed to be cut away to make a pleasant angle from hem to shoulder (that's where we both got distracted, so I don't know details). Mine was a little fussy to wear, not sure if that is because it was made badly, or too stiff, or my gamurra was way too long. Also, the pattern would have been upside down which would not be pleasant to my (modern) eye.
Anyway, I hope that you can take lots of pictures so we can see how wonderful you all will look!
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