I had announced early in the year my intention to travel to Oxford and see the Tolkien exhibition, and we had agreed to attempt a family vacation in England because the kids are absorbing the BBC's children's programme and learning to speak actual English. But then with one thing and another, the summer holidays passed and we didn't make it. And then Jörg's rehab got finally approved of and he'll be away all through the fall holidays, putting an end to any plans we could've made for those two weeks. So it looked as if I'd have to pass up on that one. Boo.
Being a completely rational, understanding, fully functional adult human being, I accepted that because life is like that sometimes. But then Jörg asked "So when's your England trip again?" and I was like HELLO WE'VE BEEN THROUGH THIS IT'S NOT GOING TO HAPPEN and he was like WELL I WAS JUST ASKING and I said WHY ARE YOU ASKING YOU KNOW DAMN WELL WHY WE CAN'T GO and he said WELL IT'S NOT MY FAULT YOU CAN'T GET YOUR SHIT TOGETHER and I was angry for a week or so. And then I decided that, being a fully functional adult human being, I'd just frickin' go on my own. My schedule as a part-time teacher fortunately features the gift of a completely free Friday (except last week, but... different story). With Jörg's rehab starting in two weeks and my parents being on vacation next weekend, that just left me... THIS weekend. Oops!
Now, this was a crazy week. As I mentioned (and will probably mention again) I got thrown in at the semi-deep end, having my own (semi-own) homeroom class of fifth-graders who, being new to the school, are entitled to a full week entirely under the wings of their homeroom teachers (one of whom, that's me, still finding her own feet). So instead of my laid-back part-time schedule, I was a full-time teacher from last Wednesday to this Wednesday. Oops again. Moreover, the were two parent-teacher conferences to deal with. In conclusion, from Monday to Wednesday I was inundated with responsible adult stuff and no time for dinner. Then on Thursday, I came home from school to pack my things and leave for the airport. And around 11 pm BST, the coach rolled into Oxford Gloucester Green Bus station with me on board. The hostel's reception was still (just barely) open, and there I was.
The next morning, I had breakfast next to a girl with the Ring Spell tattoo'd around her wrist. When she checked out later, I complimented her on her tattoo, and she got really excited and asked whether I'd seen the exhibition already. I said no, going there later today, and she announced that I'd love it. She would be right, of course.
But first, since my ticket's allotted time hadn't yet come, I walked around Oxford for a bit. It felt rather like my visit to Rome 13 years ago -- hyperrealistic and completely unreal at the same time, because a place you've read about so much simply can't actually exist, just like that, with you going there - except of course it does. It was a beautiful sunny morning and there I was, walking the streets of Oxford. Mind: blown. How is this even real?
OH LOOK IT'S SAURON'S TEMPLE.
(In all honesty, though, and with all due respect, I think the Old Quad of the Bod makes a much better setting for Sauron's temple. You're walled in from all sides and facing this nearly window-less Gothic facade, and there are echoes and murmurs all around and it's very oppressive and uncomfortable? Honestly feels a lot more threatening than the Radcliffe Camera.)
(I mean.)
"We will teach you Hebrew and Greek, but you've already got to know Latin"
Scholars are a law unto themselves
The "Maggers Memugger"
Inside the University Church of St Mary The Virgin
(+ moar martyrs)
View from the church tower. Lots of colleges, don't ask me what all of them are called, I just know Exeter and All Souls, don't judge me
Everyone related to this gargoyle because the stairs up the tower really made us feel a bit queasy.
The Radcliffe Camera again, still nonthreatening
Moar Streets of Oxford
Hmmm.
Yo @
dawn_felagund, they stole our April challenge theme! XD
I approve of the sense of humour evident in Blackwell's bookshop.
And NOW! The one! The only! - Of course it was forbidden to take photos inside the exhibition. But it really was lovely. Not all that big, but there were lots of letters and drawings and nnnnngh. It was all really lovingly presented. Saw a rather uneloquent fan letter by one Terence Pratchett! Lots of other fan letters. Various letters by Tolkien in various states of legibility. Photographs. (One that really struck me was the Exeter class of 1912, and then the same photograph with all the people highlighted who fell during the First World War. ;_;) We all had a good chuckle about Mabel Tolkien's letter to the grandparents in which she describes Baby as looking "quite the elf". (I think it's published in the Letters or maybe the Biography, but it was still different to see it in the original). All the Hobbit illustrations and the dust jacket designs for The Lord of the Rings and some of the other drawings, including various Elvish heraldic devices and pieces from the Book of Ishness? And the original Book of Lost Tales? And a letter in Sarati. And some modern-ish doodles in the newspaper around the very neatly solved crosswords. And, and. Did I mention a letter written by 4-year-old "Wanild Toekin" to his "Daddy Toekin" (in very neat cursive, one must say)? Lots of emotions.
It said on the website that you could see the whole exhibition in half an hour and you probably can, but I took one and a half. But you know what was almost better than being so close to so many original materials? Seeing the other excited visitors, who ranged from families with kids to students to "normal" middle-aged folks to senior citizens -- so many different varieties of fans. (I know the cool kids on Tumblr like to look down their noses at "old" people who don't get out of fandom, but in actual fact, isn't that the beauty of fandom?) So yeah. Was it worth it? Definitely. I didn't really learn anything new (aside from marvelling about the attention to detail sometimes), but it was a delight to have all these things in one dimly lit room together.
heartofoshun et al -- you should definitely go and see it when it comes to NYC next year!
There's also a nice big fat tome about the exhibition which also features some new essays. But if you've got a chance to see the actual physical exhibition, do that.
Since I happened to be there, I went to see the "Sappho to Suffrage: Women Who Dared" exhibition next door. That is also very lovingly put together and well worth a visit.
After that, I was really rather hungry, but fortunately, I knew just the right spot for a late lunch/early dinner!
To my great delight, they're taking normal pub prices, and I had a very nice Hunter's Chicken and a very nice local cidre. Probably shouldn't have had a whole pint of it but OH WELL.
Some dude at the table next to me had clearly also been to the exhibition with his bros and was discussing it, and "all those extreme fans", in scornful tones. Funny how he was having this discussion at the Eagle and Child of all places, because it's not exactly around the corner from the exhibition. Pretty sure that at least one of his bros was biting his tongue and crying inside because he'd dragged his friends there and now they were talking shit. Sometimes it's just better to travel alone.
And honestly, it's not like they can all have been unaware of the significance of the Eagle and Child, because the place isn't exactly... subtle... about it.
The next morning was a bit rainy. During breakfast, I was asked whether I'd come to study here (HAHA I WISH). And that I looked like 25 (I'm starting to feel feeble and wrinkly so this was a real boost). Also, it turned out that this weekend was Oxford Open Doors so a lot of doors that are normally closed to tourists were, as the name suggests, open.
And therefore - be still, my fangirly heart - I went into Exeter College, which is also Jordan College, which is EVERYTHING.
Oh yeah it's movie Hogwarts, too.
(I'm so jealous of these old English colleges and their glorious architecture. Imagine studying there? Imagine this being your regular college cafeteria?)
Nice modest little chapel they've got there.
OH CRAP THAT GUY AGAIN
(It occurs to me that the plaster bust is rather fragile and very easily damaged. I suggest, therefore, that I should have it cast in bronze for presentation (at my own cost). I have already referred the matter to the sculptress who knows how these things are done. Once in bronze it would then be unaffected by any dignities or indignities offered to it. I often used to hang my hat on the Tsar of Russia's bust, which he graciously presented to Merton. ~ Letters of J.R.R. Tolkien, Letter 288)
The bust now stands in the Anglican chapel of Exeter College, which I'm sure would have annoyed the professor to no end. >:D
We were allowed to go into the Fellows' Garden, too! A rare privilege.
+ bonus White Tree
Window into the college library. Si hortum in bibliotheca habes, deerit nihil I guess? WHICH, incidentally, is a really good transition to the next leg of the journey, BUT I'll talk about that some other time, because I'm pretty sure I've tried your patience (HAH!) enough for today. Thanks for reading!
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there.