Climbing Update
Things were simply off Friday. I was barely able to complete Paradise (an easy 5.7-, no toe chips or anything in the least bit challenging outside of a downward-facing horn which is harder on my feet than my hands). Monday's climbs saw great improvement. I don't think I even did Paradise (I definitely would have remembered; that pitch makes for a vaguely harrowing rappel since it's so easy to swing accidentally around the corner in the upper part). I think I redpointed a 5.7 and was close to redpointing another (Suit Up), but I fell once. I even got to smear with my right foot, which adds a new element to my skills.
Suit Up's pitch also has one of Ryan's favorite routes, a 5.9. This made it funny when when he tried a 5.8 (+?) and was having a far tougher time with it and resorted to hangdogging on a few occasions. He asked the climbing staff with some exasperation how this was easier. Apparently the harder one has a move that requires either a crazy reach or a small jump; Ryan definitely has the former!
As for me, I should have asked if they had a 5.7+. Instead I tried Blackbeard's Delight, a 5.8-. As I approached the top, my fingers could barely obey and the holds seemed smaller. I was spent. I could reach the next hold, but it wasn't enough. The next foothold was probably about a meter away at knee height, but for the life of me I could not move my left foot from its spot. It was twisted to conform to the wall and were I fresher, I think I could have pulled off the maneuver. I had gone off course one or two moves prior to my current predicament, thus it wouldn't have mattered how I made it the top. Yet without a confident handhold, I couldn't bring myself to move my feet.
I bought some clearance climbing shoes. They should definitely help. I wanted these:
Turns out, the unisex ones fit me better. Even if they aren't uniquely lavender, they'll get the job done (I also have the secret dream of getting this gorgeous harness someday and I admit some glee at having vaguely matching gear):
I bouldered a bit at the store, but we won't know for sure until Friday just how great they will be in action.
Suit Up's pitch also has one of Ryan's favorite routes, a 5.9. This made it funny when when he tried a 5.8 (+?) and was having a far tougher time with it and resorted to hangdogging on a few occasions. He asked the climbing staff with some exasperation how this was easier. Apparently the harder one has a move that requires either a crazy reach or a small jump; Ryan definitely has the former!
As for me, I should have asked if they had a 5.7+. Instead I tried Blackbeard's Delight, a 5.8-. As I approached the top, my fingers could barely obey and the holds seemed smaller. I was spent. I could reach the next hold, but it wasn't enough. The next foothold was probably about a meter away at knee height, but for the life of me I could not move my left foot from its spot. It was twisted to conform to the wall and were I fresher, I think I could have pulled off the maneuver. I had gone off course one or two moves prior to my current predicament, thus it wouldn't have mattered how I made it the top. Yet without a confident handhold, I couldn't bring myself to move my feet.
I bought some clearance climbing shoes. They should definitely help. I wanted these:
Turns out, the unisex ones fit me better. Even if they aren't uniquely lavender, they'll get the job done (I also have the secret dream of getting this gorgeous harness someday and I admit some glee at having vaguely matching gear):
I bouldered a bit at the store, but we won't know for sure until Friday just how great they will be in action.